TargetTalk

The New Steyr grip is not good in my hand.

I have a very wide and thick hand. Across the knuckles measures about 105cm. Middle finger is about 85cm. My thumb base is thick like a fat turkey leg.

I have had the best luck with XL Nil grip on my 208s. XL Rink is pretty good as well. But I give the preference to Nil.

It looks like I need the 7 degree shift like Rink offers. With the Styer grip the front sight is way left when I am in position with right hand and right eye.

As is, I need more room for my thumb base, need to shift the front sight way back to the right.

Also the fill adaptor is wrong for my scuba tank. The Hammerli fill piece works but the Styer has an extra nose on the insert. Is there a different adaptor?

Have you adjusted the screws on the back of the frame to twist the frame inside the grip ? This worked very well for me - I aim with my left eye but hold the gun in my right.
The Rink grip with 7 deg twist does not work very well for me on my Morini as it leaves a space in the palm area and the gun does not feel very secure.

Try this site http://www.steyr-sportwaffen.at/movies/.....
http://www.steyr-sportwaffen.at/movies/ "Doc"

Jack,
if your scuba tank has the usual K-valve, you will need to obtain a K-valve to DIN adapter. See picture.
-Steve

Silvershooter wrote:Have you adjusted the screws on the back of the frame to twist the frame inside the grip ? This worked very well for me - I aim with my left eye but hold the gun in my right.
The Rink grip with 7 deg twist does not work very well for me on my Morini as it leaves a space in the palm area and the gun does not feel very secure.

Yes the allen cap screw on the botttom and twisting the grip all the way needed is no where near enough to bging the front sight to the right when my wrist angle (sideways) is natural. The front sight rides about the middle of the left side rear blade. I can swing my arm from the shoulder way left and it lines up, but that is not my best arm position which is closer to straight out to the side.

The Hammerli grip is the simple black plastic adjustable one (480K) there is a name for it but I forget. Anyway it fits pretty good. I suppose I might start chopping up the Styer to match the Hammerli. I do not chop things like this too well. Maybe Neal Caloia nearby has some advice.

bummer7 wrote:Jack,
if your scuba tank has the usual K-valve, you will need to obtain a K-valve to DIN adapter. See picture.
-Steve

Steve. The difference is 300din vs 200 din I think. My tank valve taks the flat face Hammerli adaptor but not the Styeyr adaptor with the extended nose face.

I am calling Pilkguns for advice.

I currently am using 3 pieces of mole skin stacked to the lower palm area plus I have the internal left screw turned out 2 full turns to bring the front sight to the right to be naturally centered with the hold. This is just temporary for me. Adding Kwick Steel adds to much weight and not acceptable for me. It is to bad someone does not make an oversized wood insert contured to the Palm Grip that could be added and dremmeled down to fit ones grip. I'm presently working on a piece of walnut wood to fit mine and it is taking much work. It will be many grams lighter than Kwick Steel when finished and hopefully look a bit better. I'll be checking for more ideas on this thread. The picture of the sight picture is what I see without adding the thick pieces of mole skin.

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Jack,
Had some of the same issues you are having. I was able to adjust the 2 screws on the back of the receiver so the sights lined up, but then the cocking lever would hit the grip because the angle was too much. In addition, I had a cant that I could not adjust out using the 4 bottom adjustment screws. (Probably due to 6 breaks in my wrist).
And, like you the grip did not fill my hand. So I used sculpy on my grip to fill in the empty areas and to enlarge the width. The nice thing about it, is it can be removed anytime you want, and reinstalled, without affecting the wood. Or you can just do another if you like.
The really great thing that happened when I used the sculpy to get a better grip, was that the other issues of cant and sight angle pretty much disappeared. Just needed minimum adjustment to make things right. The image shows 2 pieces I did for my LP10E.
If interested, let me know, and I will go over all the details and what I learned in the process.
Randy

You can also replace the screws for adjusting the grip angle by getting some longer screws. I had to get my POA to be higher so I put in some longer screws. I also need to shift the POA to the right and did it the same way. This did require me to remove some material on the inside of the grip so it did not hit the frame when rotated to the right as far as I needed it. then QuickWood becomes your friend. It is quick and easy to add a little material here and there to get the fit just right.