TargetTalk

I'm pretty sure the #32 bushing is only held in place by one of the small cross pins (#69, but there are a bunch of them). The pin in question is located below & slightly to the rear of the firing port. I'm guessing that there is a notch in the bottom of the #32 bushing that the pin intersects. That said, with corrosion & fossilized oil, I'm sure they can be pretty well stuck in place. WD-40 isn't a particularly good penetrating oil. If you can find some "Kroil", it works much better.

I've heard from one gentleman that even after removing the pin, the bushing was difficult to get out, but he did eventually succeed. He used a small pair of pliers to rotate the bushing back & forth to free it up, and then he could pull it out. He used a string attached to a screw (size unknown) that he threaded into the old seal to pull it out. I was planning on trying a plastic crochet hook.

Replacing the seal from the rear was strongly recommended by the chief air-gunsmith for Pyramyd Air, who is the current US importer. I don't know how many seals he's replaced, but I'd guess at least dozens. I'm sure he gets paid by the hour, and his approach is much quicker than taking the whole front end apart.

I still haven't had time to try it myself, but I've got at least one & probably two that need the seals replaced before the MIT team starts up again in the fall. When I do, I will take lots of pictures & write it up. If anyone has done it & has additional comments or hints to share, that would be great.

Don't stick pliers inside the bushing. The last thing you want to do is put scratches in the channel where the stem slides. After I finished replacing the valve seal, I remember scratching my head and thinking how the heck it can be done from the rear. Putting it back together will be the tricky part. Anyone here actually done this? I am not saying Gwhite is wrong, but it's a second hand information.

I started to remove the front parts as well and it wasn't so hard. I heated the cylinder a little with a heat gun and it unscrewed without any problems. The rest came out rather easily as well.
The big o-ring inside the cylinder was round in my model so I guess something has changed during the years.

The seal looks ok in the rubber. At least from what I can see with just a magnifying glass, BUT the center hole is not in the center. Either this is a manufacturing problem, installation problem from the factory or the valve pin has been pressed against one side so the pressure isn't even.

Now I just need to find some replacement seals, which isn't so easy. They are hard to find said one dealer here in Sweden. I saw I could get them from pyramydair for around $40, but the shipping cost would be around $50! So that's not so fun.

I assume you are from Sweden. You should be able to get these parts from Great Britain at more reasonable shipping rates.

You could try here. I've bought spares and seals for a MP-46M from them in the past.

http://www.yorkguns.com

Wynne G Oldman wrote:You could try here. I've bought spares and seals for a MP-46M from them in the past.

http://www.yorkguns.com

Will check with them!

What about this upgrade I found? Any good or just as good as the real parts?
http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/izh-46-va ... 46ss90.htm

I have looked around and checked with airgun suppliers in both Sweden and rest of Europe but noone has spare parts for this gun (Yorkgun said they are not selling Baikal anymore). Seems a bit hopeless to find a replacement seal. I'm interessted in the MAC1 upgrade, but when I check their website I can't see if they ship outside US. Are there any supplier in Europe for them?

Maybe you can get a better shipping charge from this company.

http://eaacorp.com/gun_accessories/inde ... izh46.html

Maybe you can get a better shipping charge from this company.

http://eaacorp.com/gun_accessories/inde ... izh46.html

Looks like they only ship within US. I can't select any other country in the list when I try to create an account.

I's send them an email. For such a small set of parts, they may be able to help you out.

I got the upgrade kit from MAC1 and put everything back together. Seems to work now but one of the times when I tried the pistol again it fired by itself before I pulled the trigger. I hadn't any pellet in this time so nothing happened, but anyway dangerous
One thing I noticed is that it the cock lever is not fully up when the gun is pressurized when it might go off by itself when the cock is pressed down. I don't know is this is just my gun or if this is how it works. It's easy to test. Just make sure the cock is up enough so that it's possible to pressurize the chamber. After that press the cock down and it should go off.