TargetTalk

is there a standard for how far back should the trigger be from the grip? Is it a bad practice to put it too far back/too close?

Or is it 100% personal preference?

Finger it out yourself







1

Step 1: Ignore Rover...

Step 2: Make sure you are placing your finger on the trigger correctly. For precision shooting, you want to locate the "pad" near the tip of your finger on the trigger. This is the most sensitive part of your finger.


Step 3: There is a "proper" trigger location, but it's not as critical as some people make it out to be. The finger joints all pivot, so pulling straight back is tricky. The goal is to have the trigger face located so that the force from your finger is in line with the barrel at the point where the pistol fires. That will minimize any disturbance to the sight alignment. Assuming you are right handed, if the trigger is too far forward, you will tend to push the pistol to the left. If the trigger is too far back, you will tend to pull the pistol to the right.


Don't get too cranked up about making it exact. Plus or minus a millimeter doesn't make a big difference.

As usual, GWhite has the best answer. I have actually seen some good results with the second joint on the trigger, but it can't be said ideal.

It´s interesting how wide the trigger blade is shown.

Trigger width tends to vary quite a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. The standard Steyr air pistol trigger is actually a bit wider than the pictures show, but Morini triggers are a bit more narrow and rounded on the front. I've lost a lot of the sensitivity in my finger tip over the years, and now shoot with a trigger with fairly aggressive "tread":

viewtopic.php?p=314176

you didn't specify rifle or pistol... I don't know beans about pistols but I can definitely tell you that with many rifles, you can move the trigger back and forth. So with rifles: you need to find whatever works for you so the barrel (sights) doesn't move when you pull the trigger. There is a relationship between your grip and where the finger naturally lies on the trigger so you have to settle on the grip you want to use and then figure what works best with that grip... or visa versa.... have fun !!!! :-)

i used to use the middle "correct" position, but i found out recently that using the right "old style" position works better for me. i can press on the 2nd stage with more control and get less bottom-left trigger jerk shots

"i used to use the middle "correct" position, but i found out recently that using the right "old style" position works better for me."

Same here. My Hammerli 208s has a red dot and that "old"position helps (me) stabilize the dot during dry fire. It is also similar to what Brian Zins teaches, FWIW

Gwhite wrote: ↑Sun Jun 02, 2024 8:59 am trigger-contact.jpg

The centre diagram (centre finger pad) is better for precision shooting, Free/Air and Sport.
The right hand diagram ( trigger into joint) is better for heavier trigger/recoil type shooting.
Ideally suited for double action revolvers.
The one thing missing is that this is the trigger position at "Trigger Point" (break point) not initial
trigger contact point.
Movement of trigger position forward or back as little as 1-2mm can make a big difference and
will move the impact group on a target. The best position can be found by range testing.

This is exactly what I noticed: the position at the 'wall' should be as shown. Moving my Steyr trigger forward 1 mm recently for me seems to have improved the feel and - to some extent - scores.

Trigger reach should as much or as little that allows you to press the trigger straight back (1) without extra conscious effort, (2) without disruption of sight alignment, when (3) you grip the pistol naturally.

You will know whether it’s too short or too long based on experimentation and finding your Goldilocks zone. There is a trigger position where the natural act of curling your finger will give you near perfect straight-back pull through the trigger stages seemingly by default.

It’s like fitting a grip. You know what’s right only after experimenting with grip sizes and angles—then one day, you’ll have carved wood, added putty, carved the putty, and adjusted screws… and magically the natural act of closing your hand and raising your arm presents aligned sights, with no extra effort needed. That takes time, experience, and trial-and-error.

You can manage the wrong reach by consciously pressing straight to the rear despite improper ergonomics, but proper trigger reach and grip fit will actually help you use the trigger (i.e. trigger error can occur despite the fit—nerves, muscle tremors, inconsistent pre-shot routine—but it will not occur due to insufficient effort/attention to overcoming fit problems).