TargetTalk

Does anybody know if there is a DIN adapter that is nothing more that a male that plugs into the tank with a female end that accepts the DIN fill tool, and also has a bleed valve?

Just looking to see if I can have th possibility of removing my cylinder not under pressure.

Thanks.

I checked Best Fittings web site. No luck. If they don't have one, it's unlikely anyone else will. They do have a fill adapter with a high quality gauge and a bleed valve that you could add a female DIN fitting to:

https://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shop/air ... ton-bleed/

https://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shop/fil ... -bsp-male/

I'd double check with them, and explain what you want to do. The fill adapter doesn't specify the outlet thread, but it's probably the 1/8″ BSP thread that the female DIN comes with.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Mon Mar 08, 2021 7:21 pm I checked Best Fittings web site. No luck. If they don't have one, it's unlikely anyone else will. They do have a fill adapter with a high quality gauge and a bleed valve that you could add a female DIN fitting to:

https://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shop/air ... ton-bleed/

https://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shop/fil ... -bsp-male/

I'd double check with them, and explain what you want to do. The fill adapter doesn't specify the outlet thread, but it's probably the 1/8″ BSP thread that the female DIN comes with.

Thank you Sir!

silicone based oil does wonders on the tank fill adapter...

spektr wrote: ↑Mon Mar 08, 2021 10:53 pm silicone based oil does wonders on the tank fill adapter...

I use Super Lube, and it works great. Sometimes I have wants that override actual need.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe what your trying to do is impossible seeing that as long as the cylinder is screwed on then the cylinder valve is open. Any attempt to release the pressure is just going to empty it. It's only the act of unscrewing it that closes the valve.

Friggin wrote: ↑Tue Mar 09, 2021 9:50 am Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe what your trying to do is impossible seeing that as long as the cylinder is screwed on then the cylinder valve is open. Any attempt to release the pressure is just going to empty it. It's only the act of unscrewing it that closes the valve.

I think if I screwed my cylinder all the way on that you would be correct. I think if I just screw it on far enough to seal the o-ring that the pressure will open the valve, and then it will close upon releasing the pressure in the adapter.

I tested my theory by screwing my cylinder onto the adapter until it opened the valve, and the back to a closed valve. From there I put the adapter on my tank and filled it up. Proof that there is enough pressure to open the valve and fill the cylinder.

Sam at Best Fittings was so helpful when I told him hat I was looking to do. We got it all sorted and I placed my order "for dispatch" with him today. GWhite, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

So what your saying is that you intend to partially screw the cylinder on then apply 2000 PSI of pressure to it.
Good luck with that.

Friggin wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 7:39 am So what your saying is that you intend to partially screw the cylinder on then apply 2000 PSI of pressure to it.
Good luck with that.

You don't have to screw a Steyr cylinder all the way until it opens the valve to fill it. As a matter of fact I never have. There is plenty of pressure to open the valve, remember your high school physics classes? By the way, I will be filling mine to 3000psi, maybe your gun only goes up to 2000.

My mistake, 200 bar. The instructions for filling my cylinders specifically states to tighten the cylinder. If that's not the case for your pistol so be it.

Tightening the cylinder all the way on is pointless. You only have to get it to seal. Cranking it all the way until the valve opens, and then keep going until it butts up the the adapter only means that you have to turn it all those turns back off under pressure. AND it is STILL under that SAME pressure right up until it backs off of the o-ring and releases the air in the adapter. Turning it another 2 or 3 turns does not accomplish anything. If you are worried that that 2 or three threads help the strength, remember it was designed to be under full pressure right up until it is screwed off enough to release the o-ring seal. You can heckle me if you like, but maybe you are not on top of the subject. You might also be more experienced than the staff of Best Fittings as well, but I doubt it.

That's a good point about it being designed to be under full pressure right up until it is screwed off enough to release the o ring seal.
I didn't think I was heckling, just trying to jump in for a change. I don't post much mostly just read now I know why.
Good shooting to you.

Friggin wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 7:39 am So what your saying is that you intend to partially screw the cylinder on then apply 2000 PSI of pressure to it.
Good luck with that.

. This is what I would call heckling. It was meant to belittle my prior post without thinking it through first.

Your right, it should have read more like this:

So, if I'm to understand this correctly you are going to partially screw the cylinder on then open a 4500 psi tank.
It seems to me that it could be potentially dangerous.
Please be careful.

Better?

brent375hh wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:55 am Tightening the cylinder all the way on is pointless. You only have to get it to seal.

This is what the Steyr manual says to do:

Please note that the compressed air cylinder must by screwed fully into place by hand only. No tools may be used.

https://www.steyr-sport.com/en/download ... 0-e-1/file page 17 (or 37)

You guys are over thinking a simple process.

Screw the cylinder until it stops by hand.
Oven the air tank valve.
Close the air tank valve (very important!!) ;)
Unscrew the cylinder one full turn.
Open the bleed valve, or if there is none, just unscrew the rest of the way.

I would not advise anyone to try to fill a cylinder without it beeing fully screwed in... Things become very interresting, very fast!!!!

Hope this helps

rmca wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 3:54 pm

brent375hh wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:55 am Tightening the cylinder all the way on is pointless. You only have to get it to seal.

This is what the Steyr manual says to do:

Please note that the compressed air cylinder must by screwed fully into place by hand only. No tools may be used.

https://www.steyr-sport.com/en/download ... 0-e-1/file page 17 (or 37)

You guys are over thinking a simple process.

Screw the cylinder until it stops by hand.
Oven the air tank valve.
Close the air tank valve (very important!!) ;)
Unscrew the cylinder one full turn.
Open the bleed valve, or if there is none, just unscrew the rest of the way.

I would not advise anyone to try to fill a cylinder without it beeing fully screwed in... Things become very interresting, very fast!!!!

Hope this helps

It looks like you maybe ad libbed your directions instead of quoting the manual you referenced. My manual doesn't have anything about
" unscrew the cylinder one full turn", or "open the bleed valve". My manual just says " dismount compressed air cylinder from adapter ".

The manual also states to tighten the adapter with a 27mm wrench. I am a real renegade. I only tighten mine hand tight. I would bet that very few to zero Steyr owners used a wrench to install their adapter to their tank.

If you don't have a bleed valve, how do you get your fully pressurized cylinder off of the adapter without it being in state of both 1. Partially screwed on & 2. Under full pressure? Things never become "very interesting" to me when I unscrew my cylinder. It just hisses when I screw it out past the oring. Even after it expels the pressure beyond the o-ring seal it is still retained by the thread.

Yes I am over thinking this. I just want a bleed valve. No, I haven't needed one in 7 years, but I like new things. The Best adapter with a bleed valve straight into a DIN fitting, custom assembled to my inquiry, filled that New Thing want. Once I dealt with Sam at Best, I felt it was money well spent.

I really did need a bleed valve on my Hammerli. It had aluminum threads on the cylinder and the adapter, and they both seemed soft.

brent375hh wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 8:40 pm
Yes I am over thinking this. I just want a bleed valve. No, I haven't needed one in 7 years, but I like new things. The Best adapter with a bleed valve straight into a DIN fitting, custom assembled to my inquiry, filled that New Thing want. Once I dealt with Sam at Best, I felt it was money well spent.

maybe put a picture with the new device, so we can see the end result

Azmodan wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 4:05 am

brent375hh wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 8:40 pm
Yes I am over thinking this. I just want a bleed valve. No, I haven't needed one in 7 years, but I like new things. The Best adapter with a bleed valve straight into a DIN fitting, custom assembled to my inquiry, filled that New Thing want. Once I dealt with Sam at Best, I felt it was money well spent.

maybe put a picture with the new device, so we can see the end result

If you look up the the second post by GWhite, there are two links. I have the fill adapter with the female DIN fitting directly screwed on it without a hose. To me, the hose is just another thing that has to be bled and uses up air needlessly.

Here's what I think his setup will roughly look like. The team I help coach has three tanks with the Best Fittings gauge & bleed valve adapters set up for different air guns. Our tanks have K-Valves instead of DIN:
This one has a Hammerli AP20 fill adapter installed in the female DIN. I 3D printed label holders to identify which adapter is installed.