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walther gsp trigger problems

Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2004 3:59 pm
by rk
I am in possession of a walther gsp and gsp-c both of which have triggers which are nice, but "sluggish" in the first stage. I am happy with the first stage weight and excursion, but the action feels like the "plunger" or its spring controlling the first stage needs cleaning or lubrication (not gritty, but "slow" as though lubricated with grease that is too heavy). Is anyone out there familiar with this problem? What can I do about it? And lastly, what is the best method for cleaning the modular trigger of the gsp? Thanks very much for any advice.

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 8:33 pm
by rk
reposting the question...anyone out there have any info?

GSP Trigger

Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2004 10:08 pm
by Fred
When I bought a used GSP two-stage trigger, it felt to me exactly as you describe. I talked with the Walther technician at Champion's Choice (I don't know what his qualifications are), who told me to use lighter fluid to clean it. That didn't sound like the best idea to me, so I tried zapping the whole unit (out of the gun, of course) with Hornady One Shot, an aerosol spray cleaner and dry lubricant. This greatly improved the feel, but I still wouldn't call it a real "clean" feeling trigger. Maybe Scott has a better idea?

Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:19 am
by pilkguns
I can't say I have had this problem brought to me before, so I am not sure of the cause of the problem. Without havin git in my hands I am somewhat at a loss. Certainly if the grease is to thick, it can be dissasembled and replaced with somethign lighter. I presume you are talking about the later cast housing as opposed to the original stamped ones

Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:15 pm
by Fred
Scott,

Do you see anything potentially harmful about using Hornady One Shot to clean and dry lube a trigger unit? It's certainly a lot easier to do than disassembling it. Thanks, Fred

Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:23 pm
by pilkguns
honestly I'm suspicious of anything that alledgedley cleans and lubes in one step.

and I really don't see how you can cure a problem as being described without dissasembly.

GSP trigger

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:09 pm
by Predictable Bob
I used to shoot a GSP until our idiot politicians banned pistols ...... about a month before the start of the season I used to completely disassemble the trigger, degrease and rebuild - it used to take about an hour. Remember to use locktite to fix the adjusting screws though !

Another very useful tip is ..... NEVER use WD40 - after about 6 weeks it turns into varnish and causes the GSP trigger to hang up - it cost me a match !

Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 9:54 pm
by rk
P-Bob:

How hard is it to completely disassemble and, more importantly, REASSEMBLE PROPERLY (i.e. do you have special training, instructions, or aptitude?). Thanks (to all for your help).

rk

Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2004 11:20 pm
by Raymac
As a dealer for Walther I have cleaned and serviced hundreds of GSP triggers quite successfully. If you have the later model two-stage trigger it is easier than the older models. To clean without disassembling the trigger I used white gasoline with a little oil in it.....soak it and brush out wherever you can with a toothbrush or small paintbrush and rinse well in the gas. Blow it out well, preferably with a compressed air gun. The gas dries away and a very light coating of oil is left. To properly adjust the triggers one must understand the geometry and function of the small parts.....it is not difficult ot understand it if you look closely at the parts [or a diagramme] and figure out exactly what each one does. Instructions in the owners manual are useless. I have exploded diagrammes of these triggers with part numbers if its any help. The drawing in the owners manual helps too.

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:54 am
by rk
Raymac:

What is "white" gasoline: unleaded, leaded, or kerosene? And what kind of oil do you use? And in what ratio do you mix the white gasoline and oil? Thanks very much.

rk

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 12:24 pm
by Guest
White gas is colorless and additave free gasoline usually used for burners, lamps etc. but any type gas will do.....Turpentine, paint thinner or kerosene will also do, its not important, anything that you dont think will leave a residue. I put about two spoonfull of standard automotive engine oil into a coffee can half-full of gas. The thin residue of oil that is left will prevent rust.