Hi fellow shooters,
My LP 10 trigger is very unstable, in the sense that it loses its intended trigger weight very quickly. I usually set my trigger weight at around 570g. After 500 rounds or so, the trigger weight would progressively decreases to around 400g! So it depends on how often I pull the trigger, I have to reset the trigger weight very often. Imagine I usually dry-fire 200 times each session!
Can anyone explains why this happens to my LP 10. This never happens to my LP 1 at all. A few owners of the similar LP 10 also experience similar problem with their trigger weights.
Please offer some remedies as to how I can make the trigger weight more stable.
Many Thanks.
JM
.47156.0
Unstable LP 10 Trigger
Moderators: rexifelis, pilkguns
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pilkguns
Re: Unstable LP 10 Trigger
the trigger in the LP1 and the LP10 is exactly the same. You describe quite a dramatic weight change in short period of time,what do you do to go back to the previous setting? if you are repeatedly doing the same thing over again, then for some reason whichever screw you are turning is backing repeatedly,(I have never seen this!)then you should apply some blue loctite or fingernail polish to the screw to keep it from backing out.
If you are not doing the same thing over but progressively changing everything, then you have a bad spring that needs replaced and you should send it to a qualified gunsmith
: Hi fellow shooters,
: My LP 10 trigger is very unstable, in the sense that it loses its intended trigger weight very quickly. I usually set my trigger weight at around 570g. After 500 rounds or so, the trigger weight would progressively decreases to around 400g! So it depends on how often I pull the trigger, I have to reset the trigger weight very often. Imagine I usually dry-fire 200 times each session!
: Can anyone explains why this happens to my LP 10. This never happens to my LP 1 at all. A few owners of the similar LP 10 also experience similar problem with their trigger weights.
: Please offer some remedies as to how I can make the trigger weight more stable.
: Many Thanks.
: JM
.47158.47156
If you are not doing the same thing over but progressively changing everything, then you have a bad spring that needs replaced and you should send it to a qualified gunsmith
: Hi fellow shooters,
: My LP 10 trigger is very unstable, in the sense that it loses its intended trigger weight very quickly. I usually set my trigger weight at around 570g. After 500 rounds or so, the trigger weight would progressively decreases to around 400g! So it depends on how often I pull the trigger, I have to reset the trigger weight very often. Imagine I usually dry-fire 200 times each session!
: Can anyone explains why this happens to my LP 10. This never happens to my LP 1 at all. A few owners of the similar LP 10 also experience similar problem with their trigger weights.
: Please offer some remedies as to how I can make the trigger weight more stable.
: Many Thanks.
: JM
.47158.47156
-
Mark.
Re: Unstable LP 10 Trigger
I make this comment not to get anybody's dander up, but merely to state facts. Facts that cost me considerable time and effort to discover. I've spent six months with my LP10, disassembling it and reassembling it, measuring, re-measuring, adjusting, re-adjusting, re-adjusting, re-adjusting, and finally more re-adjusting to get it to a satisfactory level of performance. It is as a result of these efforts that I can no longer accept the de facto statement that LP1 and LP10 triggers are the same. I bought a second LP1 and adjusted it to within a few grams of the draw lengths weights found on my first LP1 - all this done within less than an hour. I'm not a Steyr dealer, just some goof who's spent probably the better part of a work week trying to figure out why the LP1 and LP10 triggers are so different.
Although our host indicates the LP1 and LP10 triggers are exactly the same, this isn't quite true. The individual piece parts (other than the trigger shoe) are indeed the same. There is, however, a large difference in the machining of the frame of the pistol, which results in a huge difference in trigger feel. The LP10 breach bolt is much larger in diameter than is that of the LP1. In order to accomodate this larger breach bolt, the LP10 had to sacrifice some depth in the area where the trigger adjustment springs are seated in the frame. This yields a trigger with vastly different geometry; a trigger which is essentially incapable of being adjusted as finely in terms of second stage draw weight.
One of the unenviable side effects of this seemingly-minute design change is that adjustment of first stage trigger travel adversely impacts second stage draw weight and repeatability/consistancy. I will describe to you an adjustment technique which has provided reasonably consistant results in my gun.
1) remove grip
2) turn 2nd stage weight adjustment screw fully counterclockwise to remove all weight from 2nd stage. Do NOT force this screw - when it bottoms out, it's bottomed out. Go any further and you'll risk breaking it.
3) adjust 1st stage weight to desired amount (mine is set to about 490 grams)
4) adjust 1st stage draw length visually - turn the adjusting screw clockwise until you see the tail of the screw just begin to touch the 2nd stage actuator pawl.
5) now add weight to the second stage as desired
6) adjust overtravel as desired
This technique failed to produce satisfactory results for me as I could never get the 2nd stage draw weight down below about 175 grams. In the end, I cut the 2nd stage spring down by 0.080", which just happens to be the difference in depth in the spring retaining hole between the LP1 and LP10. This yielded better results. Still not as good as the LP1 which I can adjust to 20 grams or less on the 2nd stage, but far better than it was prior to modification.
Having said all this, our host is undoubtedly correct with regard to adjustment screws that back out and springs that go soft as sources of changing draw weights. I'd embellish his comments by adding that, if repair work is done, the gun should go to a competant airgun gunsmith, such as our host. It's pretty hard to beat Pilkington's service!
Mark.
.47160.47158
Although our host indicates the LP1 and LP10 triggers are exactly the same, this isn't quite true. The individual piece parts (other than the trigger shoe) are indeed the same. There is, however, a large difference in the machining of the frame of the pistol, which results in a huge difference in trigger feel. The LP10 breach bolt is much larger in diameter than is that of the LP1. In order to accomodate this larger breach bolt, the LP10 had to sacrifice some depth in the area where the trigger adjustment springs are seated in the frame. This yields a trigger with vastly different geometry; a trigger which is essentially incapable of being adjusted as finely in terms of second stage draw weight.
One of the unenviable side effects of this seemingly-minute design change is that adjustment of first stage trigger travel adversely impacts second stage draw weight and repeatability/consistancy. I will describe to you an adjustment technique which has provided reasonably consistant results in my gun.
1) remove grip
2) turn 2nd stage weight adjustment screw fully counterclockwise to remove all weight from 2nd stage. Do NOT force this screw - when it bottoms out, it's bottomed out. Go any further and you'll risk breaking it.
3) adjust 1st stage weight to desired amount (mine is set to about 490 grams)
4) adjust 1st stage draw length visually - turn the adjusting screw clockwise until you see the tail of the screw just begin to touch the 2nd stage actuator pawl.
5) now add weight to the second stage as desired
6) adjust overtravel as desired
This technique failed to produce satisfactory results for me as I could never get the 2nd stage draw weight down below about 175 grams. In the end, I cut the 2nd stage spring down by 0.080", which just happens to be the difference in depth in the spring retaining hole between the LP1 and LP10. This yielded better results. Still not as good as the LP1 which I can adjust to 20 grams or less on the 2nd stage, but far better than it was prior to modification.
Having said all this, our host is undoubtedly correct with regard to adjustment screws that back out and springs that go soft as sources of changing draw weights. I'd embellish his comments by adding that, if repair work is done, the gun should go to a competant airgun gunsmith, such as our host. It's pretty hard to beat Pilkington's service!
Mark.
.47160.47158
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Roland Cannon
Re: Unstable LP 10 Trigger
I have owned my LP 10 for over 4 years. The gun has been shot over 10,000 times. Before we shoot in local matches our guns are inspected. When I first bought the gun I set the trigger weight to slightly over 500g. I actually used the weight + a quarter. My gun always passes and has needed no additional tuning or changes.
I woudl send your gun to Scott asap. Something is wrong.
.47162.47160
I woudl send your gun to Scott asap. Something is wrong.
.47162.47160
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pilkguns
Re: Unstable LP 10 Trigger
Hi Mark, hmmmm.... you have obviously done more research into this than I have. But I have been able to get LP10 down around 150 on the 2cd stage, although I know of no reason why anyone would want less than that on a two stage trigger. We have set up single stage triggers for silloughte guns for around 75 grams but thats a cat of different color
: I make this comment not to get anybody's dander up, but merely to state facts. Facts that cost me considerable time and effort to discover. I've spent six months with my LP10, disassembling it and reassembling it, measuring, re-measuring, adjusting, re-adjusting, re-adjusting, re-adjusting, and finally more re-adjusting to get it to a satisfactory level of performance. It is as a result of these efforts that I can no longer accept the de facto statement that LP1 and LP10 triggers are the same. I bought a second LP1 and adjusted it to within a few grams of the draw lengths weights found on my first LP1 - all this done within less than an hour. I'm not a Steyr dealer, just some goof who's spent probably the better part of a work week trying to figure out why the LP1 and LP10 triggers are so different.
: Although our host indicates the LP1 and LP10 triggers are exactly the same, this isn't quite true. The individual piece parts (other than the trigger shoe) are indeed the same. There is, however, a large difference in the machining of the frame of the pistol, which results in a huge difference in trigger feel. The LP10 breach bolt is much larger in diameter than is that of the LP1. In order to accomodate this larger breach bolt, the LP10 had to sacrifice some depth in the area where the trigger adjustment springs are seated in the frame. This yields a trigger with vastly different geometry; a trigger which is essentially incapable of being adjusted as finely in terms of second stage draw weight.
: One of the unenviable side effects of this seemingly-minute design change is that adjustment of first stage trigger travel adversely impacts second stage draw weight and repeatability/consistancy. I will describe to you an adjustment technique which has provided reasonably consistant results in my gun.
: 1) remove grip
: 2) turn 2nd stage weight adjustment screw fully counterclockwise to remove all weight from 2nd stage. Do NOT force this screw - when it bottoms out, it's bottomed out. Go any further and you'll risk breaking it.
: 3) adjust 1st stage weight to desired amount (mine is set to about 490 grams)
: 4) adjust 1st stage draw length visually - turn the adjusting screw clockwise until you see the tail of the screw just begin to touch the 2nd stage actuator pawl.
: 5) now add weight to the second stage as desired
: 6) adjust overtravel as desired
: This technique failed to produce satisfactory results for me as I could never get the 2nd stage draw weight down below about 175 grams. In the end, I cut the 2nd stage spring down by 0.080", which just happens to be the difference in depth in the spring retaining hole between the LP1 and LP10. This yielded better results. Still not as good as the LP1 which I can adjust to 20 grams or less on the 2nd stage, but far better than it was prior to modification.
: Having said all this, our host is undoubtedly correct with regard to adjustment screws that back out and springs that go soft as sources of changing draw weights. I'd embellish his comments by adding that, if repair work is done, the gun should go to a competant airgun gunsmith, such as our host. It's pretty hard to beat Pilkington's service!
:
: Mark.
.47181.47160
: I make this comment not to get anybody's dander up, but merely to state facts. Facts that cost me considerable time and effort to discover. I've spent six months with my LP10, disassembling it and reassembling it, measuring, re-measuring, adjusting, re-adjusting, re-adjusting, re-adjusting, and finally more re-adjusting to get it to a satisfactory level of performance. It is as a result of these efforts that I can no longer accept the de facto statement that LP1 and LP10 triggers are the same. I bought a second LP1 and adjusted it to within a few grams of the draw lengths weights found on my first LP1 - all this done within less than an hour. I'm not a Steyr dealer, just some goof who's spent probably the better part of a work week trying to figure out why the LP1 and LP10 triggers are so different.
: Although our host indicates the LP1 and LP10 triggers are exactly the same, this isn't quite true. The individual piece parts (other than the trigger shoe) are indeed the same. There is, however, a large difference in the machining of the frame of the pistol, which results in a huge difference in trigger feel. The LP10 breach bolt is much larger in diameter than is that of the LP1. In order to accomodate this larger breach bolt, the LP10 had to sacrifice some depth in the area where the trigger adjustment springs are seated in the frame. This yields a trigger with vastly different geometry; a trigger which is essentially incapable of being adjusted as finely in terms of second stage draw weight.
: One of the unenviable side effects of this seemingly-minute design change is that adjustment of first stage trigger travel adversely impacts second stage draw weight and repeatability/consistancy. I will describe to you an adjustment technique which has provided reasonably consistant results in my gun.
: 1) remove grip
: 2) turn 2nd stage weight adjustment screw fully counterclockwise to remove all weight from 2nd stage. Do NOT force this screw - when it bottoms out, it's bottomed out. Go any further and you'll risk breaking it.
: 3) adjust 1st stage weight to desired amount (mine is set to about 490 grams)
: 4) adjust 1st stage draw length visually - turn the adjusting screw clockwise until you see the tail of the screw just begin to touch the 2nd stage actuator pawl.
: 5) now add weight to the second stage as desired
: 6) adjust overtravel as desired
: This technique failed to produce satisfactory results for me as I could never get the 2nd stage draw weight down below about 175 grams. In the end, I cut the 2nd stage spring down by 0.080", which just happens to be the difference in depth in the spring retaining hole between the LP1 and LP10. This yielded better results. Still not as good as the LP1 which I can adjust to 20 grams or less on the 2nd stage, but far better than it was prior to modification.
: Having said all this, our host is undoubtedly correct with regard to adjustment screws that back out and springs that go soft as sources of changing draw weights. I'd embellish his comments by adding that, if repair work is done, the gun should go to a competant airgun gunsmith, such as our host. It's pretty hard to beat Pilkington's service!
:
: Mark.
.47181.47160