TargetTalk

Hello fellow shooters.
I've been dying to get into the 50 m free pistol discipline. I want to buy a good gun, but not necessarily a new one. I've found a Hammerli 150 in perfect condition and for a very good price.
I really like it.
I searched the net for reviews and found that the pistol's mechanics and finish are sensational, especially as it's the latest version available to me.
However, I've also read that it's very difficult to use and a bit vicious.
What do you think?
Thank you for your help.
Best regards.
Nicolas

I had one for a while, but I found it less forgiving that my previous free pistol (Pardini PGP-75). After selling my 150, I have been shooting a Morini CM84E for over 20 years, and I love it. The dry fire ability of the electronic trigger is REALLY useful to me. I'm trying to get ready for the state Olympics in a couple weeks, and have been using it with an electronic trainer to shoot ~ 70 "clicks" a day.

Another issue is parts. Once Walther bought up Hammerli, I'm not sure what the parts & service situation is these days. That will depend a lot on where you live. The college team I help coach has five Hammerli 160's. I'm not sure what design changes have been made between the 150 and the 160, but we've had to replace a couple broken firing pins and the plastic trigger lever on some.

Now that free pistol has been dropped from the Olympics, I would think there would be some CM84s for sale used out there (somewhere...).

I don't find the 150 hard to use. I shot my best score with one. A fellow shooter has a newer Walther FP500. From the outside, it looks like the two might well share some parts, but have not had the need to source anything for mine. My only.issue has been sticky extraction sometimes, but my Toz has the same issue with some ammo.

Free pistols tend to have tight chambers, and extraction over the course of a match can be an issue. Last year I discovered that Norma TAC-22 doesn't have that problem, but you have to put up with the greasy lube they use. I suspect any RWS ammo is similar, as they are all made in the same factory.

Thank you very much for your advice, which will help me make up my mind. I'm going to think about everything you've written.
Good shooting.
Nicolas

Greetings,

Buy the 150 at the "very good price".

Try it out for several months.

If you do not like it, sell it for a "very good price".

Sort of like leasing a car before you buy it.

The advantage of buying used, well cared for, equipment.

Cheers,

Dave

I have a 150 that i bought from Don Nygord in 1988. Very reliable and shoots way better than i am capable of. The mechanical trigger is very consistent but i wish it had an electronic trigger for dry firing.

If I find a good one, I'll keep it.

Seems to me my 150 is dry fired by resetting it. Don't have to touch the breech and cock the firing pin. And I'm thinking all I have to do is pull my trigger finger from the guard and push the lever down. But I'm shooting left handed. Or that memory is from before I switched.

Yes, the 150 can be repeatedly and safely dry-fired by setting and re-setting the trigger (small lever) without cocking the firing pin (big lever).

You do need to be careful if you want to de-cock the pistol. I think having the lever all the way up or all the way down is OK. If you have the cocking lever in the middle, I think that's how you break the cocking ear off the firing pin. The last time I had to fix a 160, the firing pins were about $75...

Sounds like maybe i gave some misinformation on dry firing the 150. When i bought my 150 from Don Nygord he specifically told me not to just reset the trigger for dry firing due to possible damage to the firing pin. What i have been doing is inserting a fired brass 22 cartridge into the chamber, and resetting the trigger each time. I then extract the brass, rotate it and reinsert it into the chamber, reset the trigger and then dry fire again. That was why i was saying having an electronic trigger would make dry firing easier. Sorry if this is not the correct procedure.

Once the firing pin is released, you can set the trigger and dry fire as much as you want. You only have to put an empty in the first time. Setting the set trigger hammer (accelerator) does not cock the firing pin.

If I do a lot of dry firing with the Hammerli 150, won't I wear out the mechanics too quickly?

If you only cock the trigger mechanism, and not the firing pin, the forces involved in the sear system are an order of magnitude smaller than in a regular .22. I wouldn't worry about it.

It's a bit different because of the electronic trigger system, but I've fired the solenoid in my Morini at least 1000 times over the last month or so of training, 90% of it was dry firing. Other than during the pandemic, I've shot/dry fired the pistol a similar amount every summer for about 20 years, I just live fired 70 rounds with it this morning, and it still works just fine.

Thank you very much for your feedback.

Out of curiosity, I double checked the manual I have for the 160. This section of the 150 manual is the same:

Dry firing, model160
When dry firing for practice purposes, the hair trigger should only be set with the cocking lever. The breechblock remains open or closed and is not cocked, otherwise the firing pin may get damaged. If this recommendation is followed, the Hammerli 160 can be used for dry firing practice as frequently as required and without risk.

The key thing is that the breechblock MUST be fully open, or fully closed, NOT somewhere in the middle the first time you dry fire. That uncocks the firing pin, and from there, you can use just use the trigger lever to dry fire to your heart's content.

Here's some excellent news.