TargetTalk

The walnut grips on my H208 and my K14 are both showing the effect of 40 years of accumulated dirt, oil and sweat.
I would be grateful for any advise on cleaning the grips without damage or warping.

I used Watco Rejuvenating oil on my grips. I used an old toothbrush on the checkering of my K22 grips. I then wiped off all I could. It takes about 3 days after that so they don't feel oily.
In contrast, as much as I like the Rink fit, they are slimy out of the package, and for two weeks afterwards.

I have some dick horton dark walnut grips on my pardini that are simply breathtaking beautiful.

I also use aerosol stickum when my hand gets sweaty and greasy.

Simple green cleans them up really good without any visible damage to the wood.

I do wax them after the simple green

Regards,
Crankster

Take off the worst filth with some fine steel wool, maybe scrub off the rest and refinish with tung oil and citrus solvent.
Not sure if just citrus solvent will clean it up.

Scrub with turp's and small brush.
Pat dry.
Re-finish with a couple of coats of 50/50 turp's and linseed oil.
Rub on, let dry overnight and polish with cotton cloth.

Linseed oil takes forever to cure

JamesHH wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 12:53 am Linseed oil takes forever to cure

Not the fast drying versions

JamesHH wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 12:53 am Linseed oil takes forever to cure

Thinned 50/50 with Turp's, wiped on and let dry 24 hr's.
Polish off with cotton cloth and re-apply another coat.
I found it very good in hot weather with sweaty hands.
Also very easy to re-apply every 12-18 months.
I have been using it for over 40 years.

I have good results by cleaning with Shellite , rubbing down with 0000 steel wool and finishing with Danish oil and rubbing back between coats with 2000 grit wet and dry paper.

David M wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 2:50 am

JamesHH wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 12:53 am Linseed oil takes forever to cure

Thinned 50/50 with Turp's, wiped on and let dry 24 hr's.
Polish off with cotton cloth and re-apply another coat.
I found it very good in hot weather with sweaty hands.
Also very easy to re-apply every 12-18 months.
I have been using it for over 40 years.

I much prefer a modern polymerizing oil like Watco. Provides a very good finish similar to linseed oil, but it sets up overnight. Easy to touch up when tweaking a grip, too.

If a grip gets grubby, I use Watco with a soft toothbrush to clean the stippling/checkering on grips. You definitely want to wear old clothes when you do it because the brush tends to spray a fine mist all over.

On smooth areas, you can get a beautiful soft toned finish by wet sanding with Watco Satin Wax.

Good scrub with nail brush and Sard soap, quick rinse, towel dry, air dry and re-oil as per David M's post.

Bob

Spencer wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 4:39 am The walnut grips on my H208 and my K14 are both showing the effect of 40 years of accumulated dirt, oil and sweat.
I would be grateful for any advise on cleaning the grips without damage or warping.

Ballistol

I've used denatured alcohol & an old toothbrush. Depending on the original finish used on the grip, it may take off a bit of some oil finishes with the grime. You can re-treat it with a bit of Watco Danish Oil.

brent375hh wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 2021 12:52 pm I used Watco Rejuvenating oil on my grips. I used an old toothbrush on the checkering of my K22 grips. I then wiped off all I could. It takes about 3 days after that so they don't feel oily.
In contrast, as much as I like the Rink fit, they are slimy out of the package, and for two weeks afterwards.

I have a lot of experience with woods, antiques, tools and refinishing.
This is what I would recommend.

I'm guessing that if you treat a grip with oil that you might have difficulty adding putty/imitation wood if you should want to mod it at a later date?

Watco is a polymerizing oil. It goes on and looks like like an old fashioned oil finish, but once it's cured, it basically plastic. I'm not sure what Rink uses, but it continues to soak out of the wood for months, if not years.

Rink uses Scherells stock oil. It is hard to find in the US. The last bottle we were able to find in the US came from Larry’s.

https://www.formgriffe.de/en/shpSR.php? ... 400&p2=308

Can you apply the Watco oil directly over the factory finish on Rink and Nill grips, or do you have to do some sort of prep work first?

Nill uses a different finish from Rink. My recollection is that it doesn't stain things the way a fresh Rink grip will, so it may already be a polymerizing finish. My primary use has been in re-sealing areas that I have filed/sanded down, and I haven't had a problem with the Watco with either brand of grip. You apply the Watco, and let it soak in. You apply a second coat, let that soak in, and then wipe of the excess. When you are applying it over an area that is adjacent to existing finish, it just doesn't soak in as much around the edges. You let it sit overnight, and you are done.