pardini sp trigger reset is very slow

[gfrad1]

i just replced reset spring on trigger because old one seemed to reset slowly .isue still exists trigger does not reset fast i tried diferent settings on trigger, does pardini make a triger rest spring that has a faster reset

[David M]

Typical fault on the Pardini (induced by shooters playing with the trigger setting) is
not enough clearance between the transfer bar and the sear block.

Their should be a small amount of free rattle on the trigger between touching the trigger
and the inital first stage movement.
That is the clearance to allow the transfer bar to re-engage after firing, on trigger release.
If you remove this clearance then the trigger reset is slow, may be partial or causes a
malfunction and not engage.
Usually non allowable, as it re-engages as the pistol touches the bench and it fires for the RO.

Feel for a very small rattle, then first stage weight and travel to second stage point, then increases second stage
weight till break. Depending on setup you may or maynot have some second stage travel.

[JamesHH]

The trigger spring is weak and non adjustable and as far as I know there isn't a heavier version.

You can help a bit by reducing sear engagement and then reducing the free travel.

Don't reduce too much though, the sear is quite soft and it will erode if there isn't enough contact area, then when you adjust it back there will be a step which is annoying.

Can also be gunge between the transfer bar and frame, you can blast it out with solvent, just remember to relubricate everything, especially put Moly grease on the sear or it will erode....

[David M]

You can help a bit by reducing sear engagement and then reducing the free travel.

Don't reduce too much though, the sear is quite soft and it will erode if there isn't enough contact area, then when you adjust it back there will be a step which is annoying.

If this is happening to your sear, then the trigger is set up wrong.
I see it quite often when shooters play with the trigger.
Do not set the sear engagement as just second stage travel or point only.
On reset the Pardini sear overlap is first and second stage travels combined.
As the trigger is moved, the sear moves with first stage travel up to the trigger
point (set by second stage contact point), then increased pressure/movement to break.
If you release the trigger during the press, the sear should move back to full engagement.
If it does not move the sear may be worn (notchy) or angles cut wrong.
I have seen this when a shooter tried to get a break like glass trigger and ground his sear.
New parts were required to fix the pistol.

[Gwhite]

The Pardini trigger (and the Benelli MP90s & MatchGuns) use a VERY different trigger mechanism from most US pistols. You should be able to get pretty much any trigger response you want without having to touch the internals. Shooters in the US who are used to 1911's, S&W 41's & High Standards screw up their Pardinis all the time because they don't understand how they work.

I was in that boat when I first dealt with a Pardini trigger, and the manual isn't very helpful. For those who haven't seen them, here's a set of colored diagrams I made that show what is going on internally:

https://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=19268&

[David M]

Its not just the US shooters, the Aussies screw them up as well....
I wish I had a dollar for every Pardini pistol trigger I have had to fix at competition's.

[JamesHH]

If this is happening to your sear, then the trigger is set up wrong.
I see it quite often when shooters play with the trigger.
Do not set the sear engagement as just second stage travel or point only.
On reset the Pardini sear overlap is first and second stage travels combined.
As the trigger is moved, the sear moves with first stage travel up to the trigger
point (set by second stage contact point), then increased pressure/movement to break.
If you release the trigger during the press, the sear should move back to full engagement.
If it does not move the sear may be worn (notchy) or angles cut wrong.
I have seen this when a shooter tried to get a break like glass trigger and ground his sear.
New parts were required to fix the pistol.

Yes I know, the sear moves for the full travel of the trigger, second stage is controlled by the spring-plunger screw, I've recut one sear which was notched.

From what I've seen of SP RFs though they are set by the factory with much less sear engagement than the SP.

[gfrad1]

I have set the trigger as following:I have a little free play which used to be a lot longer when I first got pistol there is a good feel of first stage 800gwhen pulling to come to second stage spring ball which with pressure of about 600g hammer drops with trigger pressed and than racking slide I depress trigger which seems to be slow.
My izh 35 reset is allot faster but that could because it is a single stage gun I would love to have the same type of reset with pardini
I was told by another of our pardini shooters that Pardinis RF trigger reset was a lot faster and that’s why I ordered another spring but no luck

[j danielsson]

Look for signs of friction on the transferbar.
I had one that suddenly after years of troublefree use
decided to bend itself.

[JamesHH]

I have an odd issue in that somehow my SP is shaving bits of brass and they're ending up in the trigger mech, probably around the transfer bar, and causing a grungy feel until they're blasted out.

Its not an issue on my RF and I interchange magazines so I don't think its that, must be the barrel or slide, but still can't find it.

[Gwhite]

I've had problems with various ammo dumping brass bits in my pistols. The problem is caused by mis-adjusted crimp dies at the factory. Instead of folding in the mouth of the brass arounds the bullet, they are set too far back and cut into the case, leaving burrs that can detach. Here's what I fished out of my MatchGun at one point:

Here's what a really bad round looks like:

This was with some Aguila, but I first ran into it with a particular lot of Eley Target. I contacted them, and their response wasn't even particularly apologetic. They said that it was an older lot, and they check their machines regularly to make sure it doesn't happen.

[JamesHH]

Aha thanks.

Must be a bad batch of SK then, I mostly use CCI for rapid.

[-TT-]

In tens of thousands of rounds of SK Standard Plus and Pistol Match, I can't remember a single quality issue. I'd be surprised to hear of one. CCI, now and then yes though.

[JamesHH]

SK velocity can be somewhat inconsistent.

We have definitely had a batch of SK magazine a few years ago which had 1-2 squibs per 500.

I'll check through my stock for the crimps.

[-TT-]

SK Magazine bulk pack is a different matter, I'm talking about the boxed product. The packaging alone, where the rounds bang into each other in handling, make me avoid the Magazine. In addition to the fact it's unrated for velocity, etc as are all the other products.

[JFuller]

Thanks for the colored diagrams, I found them really helpfull and now my trigger resets but with a noticable click which I find reassuring knowing that the next pull of the trigger will work.
Attempting to reduce the overall trigger weight from almost 1800g closer to 1100g I found that the "outer" CS screw was making major changes to the 2nd stage trigger weight and the the inner PS screw had no noticable effect.
This is on an older 2nd series SP, not a Fiochi, with no visable PP screw.

[Gwhite]

Thanks for the colored diagrams, I found them really helpfull and now my trigger resets but with a noticable click which I find reassuring knowing that the next pull of the trigger will work.
Attempting to reduce the overall trigger weight from almost 1800g closer to 1100g I found that the "outer" CS screw was making major changes to the 2nd stage trigger weight and the the inner PS screw had no noticable effect.
This is on an older 2nd series SP, not a Fiochi, with no visable PP screw.

The behavior of the CS & PS screws sounds suspicious. You may want to remove the outer screw and it innards , take them apart & clean them. If lube fossilizes in there, it can glue the PS ball in place, although your description doesn't exactly fit that. Your pistol is plenty old enough that any lubricant in there could be pretty gummy.

The PP screw is absent in the older models, and I'm not sure if there is an equivalent adjustment elsewhere.

[JFuller]

[quote=Gwhite post_id=311076 time=1628530483 user_id=629]
[quote=JFuller post_id=311067 time=1628521005 user_id=2444]
Thanks for the colored diagrams, I found them really helpfull and now my trigger resets but with a noticable click which I find reassuring knowing that the next pull of the trigger will work.
Attempting to reduce the overall trigger weight from almost 1800g closer to 1100g I found that the "outer" CS screw was making major changes to the 2nd stage trigger weight and the the inner PS screw had no noticable effect.
This is on an older 2nd series SP, not a Fiochi, with no visable PP screw.
[/quote]
The behavior of the CS & PS screws sounds suspicious. You may want to remove the outer screw and it innards , take them apart & clean them. If lube fossilizes in there, it can glue the PS ball in place, although your description doesn't exactly fit that. Your pistol is plenty old enough that any lubricant in there could be pretty gummy.

The PP screw [u]is[/u] absent in the older models, and I'm not sure if there is an equivalent adjustment elsewhere.
[/quote]
Removed and cleaned the two screws, seems to have corrected things, now I just have work on my "chicken finger"