TargetTalk

I purchased a used FWB P44 with everything that came in the box originally but I honestly have no idea on what adapter to buy in order to fill the cylinders from a hand pump or maybe a compressor? Can someone please give me a link or part number on the proper adapters

Thank you
Mike

Here you go, this :
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/air- ... ect?a=5358

or this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Feinwerkbau-Qu ... 586&sr=8-6

Either of those will connect your FWB cylinders to the quick disconnect on your hand pump or compressor.

Everything you need is in the box. Buy an 80 cuft scuba tank and shoot.

spektr wrote: ↑Fri Jun 11, 2021 10:03 pm Everything you need is in the box. Buy an 80 cuft scuba tank and shoot.

This... But you will need a scuba tank valve than takes a 200bar fitting or a yoke that adapts a 200bar fitting to the American style yoke valve.

Green_Canoe wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 1:30 pm This... But you will need a scuba tank valve than takes a 200bar fitting or a yoke that adapts a 200bar fitting to the American style yoke valve.

I said everything is in the box
Scuba Tanks are all internationally standardized.
There is no such thing as an American Scuba Valve.
ALL 200 bar tanks are identically threaded world wide.
That's why my German Gun adapter screwed into my US tank
Please quit overcomplicating things. Or at least be correct. It peeves me when simple shit go's sideways because know it alls need to write incorrectness..........

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO...........

Take an allen wrench. Remove the yoke insert. Thread the FWB fill adapter directly into the tank threads just like those German Gun Designers intended it to work and move on.... If you have trouble reading these simple instructions, look at the pictures I attached. Your welcome, I saved you all the time and effort buying useless adapters because I actually did it, and have done it for years because I actually have a P44, and some of us here can't seem to understand how easy it is.......

I believe the P44 cylinders are rated for 200 bar. If you just go out & buy an aluminum scuba tank, you will get either a 300 bar or a 230 bar tank. Both of which run the risk of overpressuring your cylinder is you aren't careful. In fact, if you get a 300 bar tank, your 200 bar fill adapter won't seal without another adapter, and you have to be VERY careful not to overpressure . There is a much smaller risk with a 230 bar tank if the dive shop fills it all the way up (which they tend to do).

Unless you get a used tank, very few dive shops will have a 230 bar tank with a DIN (threaded) fitting. One reason for going with the yoke setup is that it tells the flunky at the dive shop NOT to fill the tank up to 300 bar, even if it's rated for it.

There's tons of info on the forum on all of this. Use the search feature if you want more info.

.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 4:31 pm I believe the P44 cylinders are rated for 200 bar. If you just go out & buy an aluminum scuba tank, you will get either a 300 bar or a 230 bar tank. Both of which run the risk of overpressuring your cylinder is you aren't careful. In fact, if you get a 300 bar tank, your 200 bar fill adapter won't seal without another adapter, and you have to be VERY careful not to overpressure . There is a much smaller risk with a 230 bar tank if the dive shop fills it all the way up (which they tend to do).

Unless you get a used tank, very few dive shops will have a 230 bar tank with a DIN (threaded) fitting. One reason for going with the yoke setup is that it tells the flunky at the dive shop NOT to fill the tank up to 300 bar, even if it's rated for it.

There's tons of info on the forum on all of this. Use the search feature if you want more info.

Yes you are mostly correct. 300 bar parts will not mate with 200 bar tanks without monkeying around with ill advised adapters which in my mind are unsafe.. My 200 bar tank was purchased new at a local shop. All shops require current dive cert cards to refill dive tanks UNLESS the Owners Name, The Max fill PSI/BAR and the words NOT FOR SCUBA USE are labelled on the tank. Not all dive shops will fill them when labelled that way even though its in the regs, they can refuse service. Even then, it also needs to comply with the DOT regs for inspections, just like all other tanks.....

The probability of making an error is miniscule when you follow the rules. At the end of the day, the photos are the simplest method to fill the tank, and the process the gun makers planned for....... We need less overthink, and more trigger time......

spektr wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 2:43 pm

Green_Canoe wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 1:30 pm This... But you will need a scuba tank valve than takes a 200bar fitting or a yoke that adapts a 200bar fitting to the American style yoke valve.

I said everything is in the box
Scuba Tanks are all internationally standardized.
There is no such thing as an American Scuba Valve.
ALL 200 bar tanks are identically threaded world wide.
That's why my German Gun adapter screwed into my US tank
Please quit overcomplicating things. Or at least be correct. It peeves me when simple shit go's sideways because know it alls need to write incorrectness..........

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO...........

Take an allen wrench. Remove the yoke insert. Thread the FWB fill adapter directly into the tank threads just like those German Gun Designers intended it to work and move on.... If you have trouble reading these simple instructions, look at the pictures I attached. Your welcome, I saved you all the time and effort buying useless adapters because I actually did it, and have done it for years because I actually have a P44, and some of us here can't seem to understand how easy it is.......
IMG_20210612_120622403.jpgIMG_20210612_120709687.jpgIMG_20210612_120759615.jpg

The used tank I bought didn't have a convenient convertible valve that had a yoke insert. Mine looked like this:


https://www.scottsscuba.com/product/xs- ... alve-/1011

My local dive shop then tried setting me up with a convertible valve but the one he initially used converted the yoke to a 300bar fitting which, of course wouldn't seal with the 200 bar fitting supplied with my LP10. So he dug deeper into his supplies and found me one that did convert to the 200 bar fitting. So it can be complicated if you don't buy a tank with a convertible valve and it can still be complicated if do have a tank with a convertible valve as it might convert to a 300 bar fitting instead of the 200 bar fitting you need.

[/quote]
My local dive shop then tried setting me up with a convertible valve but the one he initially used converted the yoke to a 300bar fitting which, of course wouldn't seal with the 200 bar fitting supplied with my LP10. So he dug deeper into his supplies and found me one that did convert to the 200 bar fitting. So it can be complicated if you don't buy a tank with a convertible valve and it can still be complicated if do have a tank with a convertible valve as it might convert to a 300 bar fitting instead of the 200 bar fitting you need.
[/quote]



Im sorry it was so hard for you. Perhaps you got the wrong stuff because you just didnt ask the right questions. It went quite easily for me when I took the FWB adapter to the dive shop with me, and asked for a 200 Bar tank that accepted it. Easy Peasy. Again, because you got it wrong, please stop overcomplicating things and telling people irrelevant stuff. New guys need the straight poop. We owe it to new guys to tell them the facts, not launch them down bunny trails. Remember, EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO GO FROM THE TANK TO THE GUN IS IN THE BOX. Buy the right tank and the world is a simple place.

spektr wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 11:19 pm

Im sorry it was so hard for you. Perhaps you got the wrong stuff because you just didnt ask the right questions. It went quite easily for me when I took the FWB adapter to the dive shop with me, and asked for a 200 Bar tank that accepted it. **SNIP**

Difficult is too a strong a term. It just took some time. The dive shop owner was very enthusiastic and helpful. (His father was in a local target shooting club in the 50's and 60's so he was interested in what I was doing.) I took the adapter and my air cylinders into the shop. The misstep with the 300 bar valve was on the owner. He thought he'd grabbed a 200 bar convertible valve as you recommend but because I had the adapter and the cylinders in the shop we found the error very quickly and got the correct valve on the next try. I just want folks to know yes it can be simple but there are options that can complicate the situation. If you have a very nice local business owner as I had I just got to learn about their upcoming Caribbean dive trip the other folks in the shop were preparing for.

Scuba connections in the US have 3 types:

Yoke (which Canoe got), 200 Bar DIN (aka 5-thread DIN), or 300 Bar DIN (aka 7 thread DIN.)

You can use a 300 Bar attachment in a 200 or 300 Bar cylinder valve without a problem; the 200 Bar connection will not work in a 300 Bar cylinder valve (it doesn't screw in far enough to seal.)

It also seems that the US has bastardized the DIN standard safety practices, as there are now many 3500psi (300 Bar) cylinders sold here that have a convertible yoke/200 Bar DIN valve that would allow 200 Bar regs and such to be connected to the 300 Bar cylinder.

It's really a mess. Yoke valves are typically rated for 225 to 230 bar. Most SCUBA shops will fill the tanks that high. No matter how many times I've asked them to fill to just 200 bar, they ALWAYS overfill them. For the team I help coach, I will usually take a new tank and carefully fill a bunch of cylinders until the tank pressure gets down close to 200 bar before I let the students use the tank.