TargetTalk

Hello all

I have a (new to me) Daisy 777 that I picked up off of eBay and I'm having a few issues with it after a rebuild. I've looked around and I've found similar issues, but not exactly what I'm seeing, so hoping someone can help.

I was able to easily get the gun apart. I replaced the two main seals, as well as the one on the bolt. I also replaced the valve. The valve in the rebuild kid has a head that looks like the shape of a qtip that goes in to the seat; the original valve had an end that is tapered, and looks like it would seat better.

Upon reassembly, I pumped it up and could immediately hear air coming out of the breech. I closed the bolt, and the air was re directing out of the end of the barrel. When pulling the trigger, it made a decent crack, and there was certainly air coming out of the barrel. I loaded up a pellet and tried pumping and firing. It pumped up fine, but when I pulled the trigger, nothing happened. The pellet didn't fire, and the air wasn't released. Which leads me to believe that the valve isn't sealing well enough to even build enough air to fire. What puzzles me is why there is an air release with no pellet, but nothing when it's loaded. Additionally, I don't think the pump handle is adjusted right - when not cocked/pumped, it falls off of the side about 4 1/4". I know it probably needs adjustment, but obviously that doesn't affect the seal.

My question is - does anyone make a seal replacement kit with the valve having the old tapered head? I've seen one article where someone used a Dremel to get a new valve to seat, but I"m not sure I want to attempt that yet.

Is there anything else I should be looking at? I"m still puzzled at it's behavior when loaded vs. unloaded with the air release

Edit: I was able to take both vales apart. I swapped the heads to use the tapered one with the new spring. Same issue. Still leaks, but this time I"m not sure why since I would think that head would be sealing.

thanks!
Michael

Maybe it's a small detail you missed when you reassembled the pistol that doesn't allow it to function properly.

Check pilkguns TenP files:

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spd747.htm

That’s one of the resources I used along with a couple of I YouTube’s and a few other sites. I’m about 99% I reassembled it correctly. I’m wondering if I need to look in to a new barrel/seat assembly to use the updated valve.

I LOVE my 777, shot it yesterday......

This seems to address the issues you are seeing........
The key seemed to be very light stoning of the seal seat......

https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2011/02 ... 17-pistol/

Thanks - that's another link that I referenced as I was taking it apart and putting it back together. However, he bought a new barrel - which probably has the seat for the new plunger. I am going to contact Daisy to see if I can order one. I"m also going to need to see if I can order he cylinder with the lever throw adjustment - mine came fairly chewed up and it seems no matter which way I try to adjust it, the cocking arm doesn't stay put when it's not cocked

On the cocking lever take it out of the fun, unscrew it, lube it and reassemble...... I found that tightening it to where it has an ever so slight tug needed to pull it away from the tube to begin pumping the gun is where mine likes to be set.......Also, the pump handle will not stay in place unless cocked, having it flop around is normal...... I have 3 and they are all the same

I have rebuilt many 7xx series pistols. I found that same issue and so I found it's easier to just replace the entire valve assembly. I first found it on a 722 and couldn't replace the entire barrel assembly because it's no longer avallable. I don't think the Lother-Walther barrels are either so I just bought the entire valve assembly including the housing and changed it out on the original barrel. NOTE. the barrel diameters are all the same and the valve assemblies interchange. I locked the barrel in a padded vise, added a little heat to the bare valve body and tapped it off with a soft hammer. Then I just GENTlY drove the new body on and reassembled everything. Problem Solved! I have since always replaced the whole valve assembly instead of fooling around trying to grind the seat.The valves are pretty cheap through Daisy and worth the price. I have replaced both of them on my 777s and have not had any more problems.
As for the cocking lever did you adjust it to I believe 1 and1/8"? Also make sure you always cock the bolt BEFORE you cock the lever or it won't hold air. Feel free to message me if you have any more issues. Bill
ps. Daisy factory parts prices are by far the cheapest I have found.

Thanks Bill - I sent you a PM
~m