TargetTalk

We have owned a Hill Mk3 and a Mk4 pump over the years, and live in a climate with high humidity. We have found that, after filling one's tanks, it is best to at least leave the bleed screw partially open when storing or (better yet) completely remove it so the interior of the pump can dry out, between uses.

We had one pump where we did not do this (learning the hard way) and the inside became so corroded that the micron filter, spring retainer, spring, and non-return valve could not be removed and the pump was only good for use as a club.

And no matter how much of that moisture-removal compound (silica gel?) you use in the pump, water is getting into your cylinders too.

Worse than being concerned about the pump is the fact that you are pushing that moisture laden air into your pistols cylinders as well as through the pistols innards.

I bought a FWB SSP several years ago that had been fueled by a pump exclusively and the interior of the cylinders resembled a mine field.

I sold the pump, bought new cylinders and kept it on a diet of dehumidified SCUBA.

I agree, good clean air from a scuba tank is the only way to protect cylinders from moisture. We, also, gave up on the pumps and are using a Coltri dive compressor to keep our scuba tanks full.

If you choose to pump, you should do it in a small room with the AC attached with a dehumidifying heat pipe or portable dehumidifier on to eliminate the most moisture in the air.

I'd run a dehumidifier first and then run the AC unit till R.H. reaches about 30%.

Also I'd make a homemade moisture trap fill with a high quality desiccant to connected to the top of the OEM filter on the Hills.
The add desiccant surface area will suck up more moisture for yah.
https://www.deltaadsorbents.com/4a-8x12 ... 19p70.aspx

Theses are some examples on different hand pumps.




~ Greg