TargetTalk

I just got this Morini CM162 on Feb 13 this year and have shot about a thousand pellets through it.
I started notice after the first 500 pellets it was harder to cock sometimes, the shot fired normal
and many more shots cocked normal, Then it would happen again - hard to cock. I read the booklrt
that came with it and it never says to never oil it. Today after 60 or 70 shots with many hard to cock,
I ask the team coach to cock and fire the pistol. He did and said it was Binding up somewhere and
suggested not to cock it again until it was fixed. The cylinder had over 150 bar left with pressure.
This is the electric trigger with no problems with the trigger .
Any good suggestions or you tubes on how to disassemble the grip with the electric trigger???
Thanks
Leadbelly

A little maintance and TLC required...
As a rule you do not oil or grease the firing hammer nor the channel it runs in, but the loading lever
has a groove that a steel pin slides in coming from the loading bolt.
It's what moves the loading bolt back and forward as you cock, this groove goes dry, may gall and can
become rough, making it hard to open and recock and it feels stiff and hard.
A small amount of graphite grease on the pin and along the groove helps.
It also helps with a small amount on the loading lever pivot bolt.
But no grease no or near the hammer, loading bolt or chamber.

Does the loading lever freely rise approximately 60-degrees, then "Lock-up"? Basically freeze in-place, so you have to force the lever up from there?

if so . . . I've had TWO 162EI's doing the exact same thing.

I'll bump a prior thread on galling, and oil on the loading lever channel. This thread found in Shooter's Forum, look for "Bad Air."

atomicgale wrote:Does the loading lever freely rise approximately 60-degrees, then "Lock-up"? Basically freeze in-place, so you have to force the lever up from there?

if so . . . I've had TWO 162EI's doing the exact same thing.

I'll bump a prior thread on galling, and oil on the loading lever channel. This thread found in Shooter's Forum, look for "Bad Air."

Yes and after the pistol is fully cocked the lever moves very smooth up and down. It may shoot another 39 to 50 shoots normal, THEN THE HARD TO COCK THE LEVER. Thanks

THANKS EVERYONE. I called Champion's Choice, and they said they send all their guns to
PILKINGTON for repair. I called and talked to a great gunsmith at Pilkington (forgot his name),
he explained exactly what to do and all ok now. Shoot over 120 pellets last night with no problem.
Thanks PILKINGTON
Leadbelly

" I called Champion's Choice, and they said they send all their guns to
PILKINGTON for repair. "

Good thing to know (but I DO have my Walther at Pilk right now).

Leadbelly wrote:THANKS EVERYONE. I called Champion's Choice, and they said they send all their guns to
PILKINGTON for repair. I called and talked to a great gunsmith at Pilkington (forgot his name),
he explained exactly what to do and all ok now. Shoot over 120 pellets last night with now problem.
Thanks PILKINGTON
Leadbelly

The gunsmith was probably Buck. So what was the fix?

Take the grip off remove the electric trigger system in the grip. Used a can of compressed air for computers and blew out everything, especially while moving the lever up and down. Also used some 90% alcohol on Q tips and cleaned everything I could reach.

If you have a Morini MC162el, they are really easy to work on. I was really worried about the electric part in the grip. They are almost fool proof, they plug in just like adding memory sticks to your computer.

Leadbelly wrote:I started notice after the first 500 pellets it was harder to cock sometimes, the shot fired normal
and many more shots cocked normal, Then it would happen again - hard to cock.

I'm having this exact problem now, but with an older CM162EA. Really unpleasant. Feels like there is a considerable amount of uneven friction somewhere, and for some reason, the severity of the problem seems to vary.

The solutions suggested above were:

David M wrote:A small amount of graphite grease on the pin and along the groove helps.
It also helps with a small amount on the loading lever pivot bolt.

Leadbelly wrote:Used a can of compressed air for computers and blew out everything, especially while moving the lever up and down. Also used some 90% alcohol on Q tips and cleaned everything I could reach.

Leadbelly's solution almost sounds too easy, so I think I want to go for David's solution and try to lubricate the offending parts (if I can identify them). I'm assuming I should avoid silicone grease like the plague? Not sure I have any graphite grease available, though.

I think the problem is not uncommon.

Part 162028, the dowel rod which connects the bolt and lever, can wear a slight grove in the slot it moves through.
I emailed Morini about it and this was their reply:

"the problem concerns the sliding of cod.162028, we have to work about 0.2 tenths of a millimeter on the window (part above) to align the surface.
if you can, send us the air pistol without grip, barrel, trigger and electronic unit."

You can use fine grit sandpaper or a file to work the area. I used a disposable nail file. I then used a very tiny amount of M-Pro 7 LPX synthetic gun oil. This may not be the best thing to use to lubricate the area, but I have had no problems with it. I figured it was safe for lubricating the aluminum on aluminum area. Just don't get it on the bolt. You can use a Q-Tip and put a drop of oil on it and move the Q-Tip through the slot. Once I did that I have not had a problem in more than 10,000 shots. If it gets stuck again, just re-lubricate the area.

JulianL, many thanks for the fantastic pictures and information!

It's been years since I even removed the grip of my CM162EA, but I will try to have a look ASAP. As far as removing the loading lever goes, an experienced gunsmith told me (about 11 years ago) to be extremely careful when removing the loading lever screw (#162038), since "the threads in the frame are short and the screw may have been swimming in Loctite when installed. If you use excessive force when removing the screw, the threads in the frame may easily follow along with it".

I don't know if there's any truth to that, but thus far, I actually have never touched that screw, partly because it looks like the previous owner had tried to tamper with it. Looks suspicious, doesn't it? 11 year old pic:

I have had to tighten that screw and add Loctite to it when my loading lever got loose. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous owner had to re-tighten the screw. I think it could be possible that the threads get damaged if one were to use excessive force to remove the screw. The metal is aluminum and fairly soft.

Just last week, I had the stiff cocking lever occur in my like new 162 Titanium...I called our host and was told to put a little Moly grease on the pin and slot area.

Haven’t shot it much since I put in the Moly grease..I’ll provide an update in the next day or two.

TP

Sounds like the advice given earlier by David M.

Slight surprise here ... It seems they changed the design at some point. On my gun, the pin #162028 is rubbing against a small removable piece of metal.
My gun has a serial number ~15800, which might mean it was manufactured in approx. 1998-1999 (wild guess).

Anyway, since the loading lever screw (#162038) looks more or less completely trashed, I tried to clean and lube the pin and slot without removing the loading lever. I used an *extremely* small amount of graphite grease and it did seem to help. However, already after 70 shots, the mechanism had become slightly less smooth, so I think I'll try to add some more grease.

Hello to all forum members!
I have been having a similar problem with my CM162 for some time now. I am asking for information which surface should be sanded the entire window surface marked with a yellow outline or only where it is uneven (right side of the window)?

The underside of the frame slot is the galled surface. On opening the hardened pin isliftedto slife aft scraping on the underside of the frame slot.
This is the surface to dress.
Strip the pistol down and remove the arm,pin and loading bolt.
Use a fine needle file wrapped in 320 W&D, then 600 and 800 grit wet with light oil to a polished finish.
Clean well and re-assemlbe.
Lube pin & slot only with some moly grease.
Do not lube loading rod.
On one very badly worn frame I have had to machine out the top of slot and insert a hard steel sliding surface to repair.