TargetTalk

Can anyone tell me which of the two tiny allen screws on the face of my trigger is the adjustment for the overtravel, and in which direction to turn to add overtravel? I believe the schematic that Pilkguns has is for a different version and has no instruction. My trigger has two tiny hex nuts on the face, one above the other. The lower one seems to go directly into a larger trigger stop device that is behind the trigger. It looks just like the one you see here (you can see the stop device at the lower part of the back of the trigger) http://media.liveauctiongroup.net/i/256 ... 77BCF052B0. Thanks for any assistance.

The lower one is overtravel, the bit behind the trigger is the locknut.
use a small allen key or rod to fit into one of the holes in the side to
turn the locknut, anti clockwise to undo, then turn the hex screw to
set the over travel gap and re tighten the locknut.

David M wrote:The lower one is overtravel, the bit behind the trigger is the locknut.
use a small allen key or rod to fit into one of the holes in the side to
turn the locknut, anti clockwise to undo, then turn the hex screw to
set the over travel gap and re tighten the locknut.

Many thanks. I'll give that a try this weekend.

Here is a link to a Hammerli 215 manual, which seems to describe the earlier 208 model trigger adjustment.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... 68wb1vkXSA

10M_Stan wrote:Here is a link to a Hammerli 215 manual, which seems to describe the earlier 208 model trigger adjustment.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... 68wb1vkXSA

Thanks very much, but I'm pretty sure that's not the same trigger. The illustration does not appear to have the same spacing adjuster behind the lower part of the trigger. I'll take a closer look when I disassemble it though. Thanks for the URL.

Yes, the 215 manual linked describes a trigger which does not have the typical 208 trigger stop. It's similar, but not the same. I also have an older G24xxx model 208. Apparently, there were several versions of the trigger arrangement throughout the life of the model and it's variants.

10M_Stan wrote:Yes, the 215 manual linked describes a trigger which does not have the typical 208 trigger stop. It's similar, but not the same. I also have an older G24xxx model 208. Apparently, there were several versions of the trigger arrangement throughout the life of the model and it's variants.

So are you confirming that I should be using that I should be using the method described by David M early on here?

What David describes corresponds to the trigger configuration on my older 208. Most manuals describes that overtravel should be set by a gunsmith. I think that may be because the sear/hammer engagement may be affected with the overtravel adjustment set too small.

But then, I'm not sure how that should be set without a proper manul. I've been looking on the internet for a manual for the older 208 model without any luck. Currently I'm trying to figure out how to remove the recoil spring since it's worn. On some variants, the spring plunger can simply be rotated after depressing it. Not so on mine. It's a bit of head scratcher trying to figure out how that was assembled.

If I find a manual that is appropriate, I'll post it.

Edit: here is a link to several Hammerli 208 manuals - but none show the trigger configuration of my '72 model: http://www.pistoliers.com/gen_pages.php?f=manuels.txt

Edit II: Turns out my recently purchased 208 has a cracked frame. Receiving a dirty used pistol is always cause for concern. I am no longer the owner of this pistol.

To set the trigger stop,
1/ Cock the pistol (unloaded of course) and unlock the lock screw.
2/ Wind the stop in (clockwise) a turn or two.
3/ The trigger should hit the stop and not fire.
4/ Lightly holding the trigger in, slowly turn the stop screw out (anti clockwise) until the trigger fires.
5/ This defines the release point.
6/ Now set the trigger stop clearance by turning the stop screw out (anti clockwise) a further 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn.
7/ Too fine and you will hit the frame and pull shots as you pull the trigger.
8/ Too much and you will create movement on after travel as the trigger collapses.
9/ Ideal is by trial and error to your own feel and trigger control.

10M_Stan wrote:What David describes corresponds to the trigger configuration on my older 208. Most manuals describes that overtravel should be set by a gunsmith. I think that may be because the sear/hammer engagement may be affected with the overtravel adjustment set too small.

But then, I'm not sure how that should be set without a proper manul. I've been looking on the internet for a manual for the older 208 model without any luck. Currently I'm trying to figure out how to remove the recoil spring since it's worn. On some variants, the spring plunger can simply be rotated after depressing it. Not so on mine. It's a bit of head scratcher trying to figure out how that was assembled.

If I find a manual that is appropriate, I'll post it.

Edit: here is a link to several Hammerli 208 manuals - but none show the trigger configuration of my '72 model: http://www.pistoliers.com/gen_pages.php?f=manuels.txt

Edit II: Turns out my recently purchased 208 has a cracked frame. Receiving a dirty used pistol is always cause for concern. I am no longer the owner of this pistol.

First off, thanks very much to you and David for trying to help me out here with very detailed suggestions. This is very helpful and helps me understand what might be going on. I should go into a bit more detail as to why I'm looking to make this adjustment as it would explain things in the light of your cautions.

I recently received my 208 back from a repair at Larry's Guns. The issue I was having was seemingly unrelated to what I'm now facing. I sent it in because I was getting inconsistent last-round lockback on a brand new magazine I'd bought from Larry, while my stock magazine locks back 100% on the last round. Eventually I broke my slide release latch spring trying to troubleshoot that problem, so just sent the whole pistol in to Larry to fix. I also asked him if he'd work on the trigger as it pulls at just over 3 lbs which is not very ideal for me.

He replaced the spring and said he had to recut the slide to get lockback to work on both magazines, which it now does. I don't know what is meant by "recutting the slide", but it did solve the problem. Unfortunately another problem cropped up when I got the pistol back. I should also say that he declined to work on the trigger saying that the older single stage triggers could not be improved significantly. I don't know if this is true, but regardless, he did not want to take it on. So no work was done on the trigger. The problem that occurred almost right away when I started to shoot the repaired pistol, was that occasionally the first round loaded would not go fully into battery, or so it seemed: the round would chamber, but pulling back the trigger would not release the hammer. Ejecting that first round every subsequent round in the mag would fire. This would occur every few magazines, and ONLY on the very first round and no others. After putting a few hundred rounds through it this way, I did a press check when a first-round did not fire and having confirmed there was a round chambered, upon releasing the slide the round fired. My finger was nowhere near the trigger. This happened a second time. I of course had the gun pointing down range in doing my press check.

So this is the motivation for adjusting the overtravel. I wrote to Larry describing the problem that developed upon return, and he suggested that I adjust for more overtravel and see if the problem continues. Short of that, he said I'd have to send it back for him to look at...not something that I'd like to bear the expense of since the shipping is quite expensive, as any of you who've shipped for repairs are aware. I did shoot it today at the range and had no problems at all, which has happened before. Before shipping it to Larry for repairs this issue never occurred before...just the lockback issue.

I wish I could help with the return spring, but I don't know the answer to that one either as I have not done that with mine either.

I did make an attempt to make the overtravel adjustment on mine, but realized that I did not have the right size allen key to turn the adjuster screw in the trigger. Can anyone confirm the size? I'm guessing it must be either a 1.3 or a 0.9 or a 0.7 mm. The smallest I have is 1.5mm, so I ordered a micro set to do that adjustment.

Metric allen key 1.27mm

As a note, a 1.27mm 'metric' hex wrench is a 0.050" hex wrench - which is available at most any hardware store in the US.

Thanks guys. I will pick one up.