TargetTalk

Morini 162 EI Trigger Shoe Prototype
I am evaluating another type of trigger shoe, I have been using a stick type, cylindrical and smooth. This one is flat and checkered, feels very good so far.
Gort

I am using one of these triggers, with an added small notch to assist in weighing the trigger, from Ronny Nilsson at Interprodukter in Sweden.

It was very strange. I fitted it and from the first shot it felt so natural that I forgot about it.

David,
I have seen Ronny's trigger in Munich in June.
What about rules? Is it allowed?
I have checked the rules, but I did not find anything against it, other than it might be a bit difficoult to measure in the middle of the trigger shoe.

Absolutely nothing against it, apart from the difficulty with the trigger weight..

As I said, I feel it needs a small notch on the left hand edge to sit the trigger weight in, but that just takes a few strokes with a small file.

A bad photo of rough workmanship, but it works.

Thanks David
....I have tried it on the pistol of a friend. And I have to say it feels great. It's natural finger inclination and allows just one position for the finger. No different hights , no different depths!

David Levene wrote:I am using one of these triggers, with an added small notch to assist in weighing the trigger, from Ronny Nilsson at Interprodukter in Sweden.

It was very strange. I fitted it and from the first shot it felt so natural that I forgot about it.

162EI Trigger.jpg

David,do you know if they make a left handed version of this? I couldn't make head nor tail of their website

Neale

tufty wrote: David,do you know if they make a left handed version of this? I couldn't make head nor tail of their website

Neale

They certainly do Neale. Email Ronny, from memory it's info@ (shown on the web site). He speaks very good English.

David Levene wrote:

tufty wrote: David,do you know if they make a left handed version of this? I couldn't make head nor tail of their website

Neale

They certainly do Neale. Email Ronny, from memory it's info@ (shown on the web site). He speaks very good English.

Thanks very much David,I'll get in contact with him

If you decide to make one to sale for an LP10 or for the Morini let me know. My 4-H kids have been very happy with the stick triggers we got from you.

Haireacane, After experimenting with the flat trigger for a few weeks, I found that my horizontal dispersion had increased significantly. I went back to the stick trigger and like flipping a switch, targets tightened back up. I am convinced, the stick trigger induces the least detrimental input to the perfect release.
Gort

Gort wrote:Haireacane, After experimenting with the flat trigger for a few weeks, I found that my horizontal dispersion had increased significantly. I went back to the stick trigger and like flipping a switch, targets tightened back up. I am convinced, the stick trigger induces the least detrimental input to the perfect release.
Gort

I remember seeing a past thread on the stick trigger, but I couldn't find it using the search engine.

I can't recall if they were a commercial product, or homemade.

How does one go about getting a stick trigger for a Morini?

Thanks!

Gwhite, I was making the stick triggers for the LP-10, upon request, I made a few for the 162EI. The Morini was more time consuming to made due the 6mm dovetail and clamping screw slot.

http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=47653

Gort

Thanks! I'll have to get a small dovetail cutter & fire up my shop.

I can start with 3/8" rod and turn it down a bit below the dovetail section. What size screw did you use?

The screw is a 4-40x1/4 FHCS. I used a .022 slitting saw to cut the clamp relief slot, .400 deep. Dovetail is a 6mm x 60 degree, cut at a 15 degree angle .038 deep. I could not find a 6mm dovetail cutter, so I made one out of .250 dia. O-1. Finish dia. is .345, much larger creates instillation issues.
Hope this helps.
Gort

Thanks for all the details. I'll have to see about getting a dovetail cutter that small. The rest should be doable with materials & tools on hand.

I have an OEM stick trigger on my Hammerli FP60 free pistol. It has a series of rings round it so you can move an elastic O-ring up or down to suit your preferred finger position. My trigger weight is set around 70gm.

Problem I have with it (I'm going to try a more conventional shape -Ronny's perhaps) is that you cannot always tell whether you're pulling straight back or you are pushing the trigger to one side. The latter can significantly increase the apparent trigger pull.

But, if it works for you, go for it.

One thing I've been thinking about is making the round trigger a "roller". If you apply force on it in any direction but straight back, it will spin (give or take some bearing friction). I would think it could help train your finger to pull straight back.

Very interesting idea. It may entail some delicate machining. Miniature anti-friction bearings or bushings? Delrin bushings may be sufficient.
Gort

I was thinking tiny little ball bearings like the ones Steyr uses for their trigger pivots.

Give these a look,


http://www.ebay.com/itm/L-625-Miniature ... 1e9bf3f6ff

Gort