TargetTalk

I recently picked up a Savage Anschutz Mark 10A that came with Anschutz sights. It is a fantastically accurate rifle even for being vintage and showing a little wear. I am new to the smallbore game for this style of rifle and sights.

First off, I'd like replace the fixed rear aperture for an adjustable one. The aperture that came with the rifle is too small for where I shoot, and consequently I have a very dim sight picture. As this is an older rifle, with older sights, have the threads for the eyepiece changed at all? If they have not, does anyone have a recommendation for an adjustable iris? I'm not feeling the need for color filters or polarizing filters, so something fairly basic would be great. If the thread pitch or size has changed, anyone have a recommendation on where to find an aperture that would fit?

Secondly the hand stop/sling mount that came with the rifle sits too far forward in the prone, even with it moved to the position closest to the stock. Does anyone have a recommendation for a handstop that can be adjusted to sit closer to the trigger then it's mounting point (some sort of offset basically)? I'm not all that familiar with what's out there, as I have always shot service rifle in NRA High Power competition (no handstops allowed).

Testing it with Federal Gold Medal, Federal Champion, and Blazer (the three brands available to me when I hit the store) it will hold 10 ring (and possibly X-ring if I can get a bright view of the target!) easily with either Federal round when fired off a sandbag at 50 yards. I know there are a quite a few brands of .22 ammo out there, should I bother to try out some of the others (Eley, Norma, etc) if that's the kind of performance I'm getting with the local offerings. Again as I'm new to smallbore, I'm not sure what kind of accuracy to call unacceptable when testing (9 ring, 10 ring, anything other then 1 jagged hole?). If I should be getting 1 jagged hole, one the local sporting goods stores stocks Federal GM Match for some strange reason (and .22 CB's are the only other rimfire round they carry), and I'll give it a try.

Thanks!

-Jenrick

Several recent lots of SK Rifle Match tested well and the Center X test this year was excellent; "your mileage may vary".

Mark

Get a 1mm (.040") drill bit and ream out the rear aperture.

Andre wrote:Get a 1mm (.040") drill bit and ream out the rear aperture.

That may not accomplish much; the standard eyepiece aperture is 1.1mm.


Jenrick,

Firstly, can you move the rearsight closer to your eye? A gap of 1-2in is normal. This will make the aperture appear larger, so the sight picture is brighter. If you can't, then Andre's suggesting of reaming out the aperture with an appropriate size drill may be an option. If you have the L-shaped Anschutz rearsight that clamps onto the receiver grooves, and want to purchase an adjustable iris, you have a wide choice. The thread size hasn't changed, and is common to other European sights, so almost any Gehmann or Centra iris will fit. These can be purchased from any shooting supply shop. If you are only shooting indoors, then you don't need polarising filters, although a yellow filter can enhance contrast under fluorescent lights.

Second, the handstop; I take it that your rifle does not have a full length rail? Most Anschutz rifles have a rail from the tip of the fore-end back to the action, but some older rifles have a shorter (roughly half-length) rail. Rather than look for a new handstop, why not buy a replacement rail? Target supply shops carry these, and the cost should be less than a cantilevered handstop.

If the rifle does have a full-length rail, then unless you are small-statured (5' 5" or under) I'd take a different view and say you need to rethink your position. An average height adult should be able to reach far enough under a Match 64 with a full-length rail without resorting to a special handstop. However if you are smaller framed I wonder whether the butt is a little too long; I have found this to be the case with many petite shooters. When the butt is too long the rifle sits too far forwards for the left hand to reach out far enough, creating problems in balancing the rifle, loading, and obtaining correct eye relief (which could cause the dark sight picture you mentioned).

You are in a great spot to think about testing ammo. You can hit two facilities.

The Eley test center is in Winters, TX.

The Lapua (SK & Lapua) is in Mesa, AZ. I will 2nd +++ what Patriot mentioned. I just returned from Mesa testing a few rifles this week and Darrell at the test center just received a new shipment of ammo. Surprisingly great results with the Center-X on my daughters rifle. Found a fantastic lot of Polar Biathalon for her teammate's gun. They both easily hold the X at both 50 & 100m.

We test exclusively Lapua as they sponsor some awards for the NCAAs. Darrell is very patient and will work with you to find ammo that will shoot well, even in "difficult" guns.

(A note on the side ... the NCAA smallbore rifle (individual) champion was shooting a selected lot of SK STD+ this year)

Andre has the right idea. Get another drill bit.

TimS:

Firstly, can you move the rearsight closer to your eye? A gap of 1-2in is normal.

I'll try that, I do have the L-shaped Anschutz rear sight, so I don't think I've got a lot of room to move the sight itself due to the mount. Thanks for confirming that the threads should fit most options out there.

On the rail, you are correct it is a half rail that is inletted into the wooden stock (the rifle is from the 60's). For a full length rail would I need to inlet the stock for it, I'd prefer not to have to do that. I think I found a handstop that will work, as I'm only about an 1" off of where I'd like to have my hand.

Thanks for all the responses guys,

-Jenrick

I'm surprised there is not more room to move the reasrsight. The older Anschutz sights have a split bar that clamps onto the receiver; the bar is 3-4in long, and will hold fast with only one of the two thumbscrews, so it normally gives lots of room for manoeuvre (especially on a Match 64 where the receiver grooves go all the way back over the back of the bolt).

Yes, you would need to inlet the stock for a full length rail. If you can achieve it without modifying the stock, that's all well and good, but bear in mind you may want to alter your position in the future, and your other posts suggest you're shooting 3-position. A full length rail would allow a fore-end raiser/block for the standing position to be fitted much more easily.

Tim S - You were correct about moving the rear sight, I had assumed that the sight mount used cross bolt slots like a picatinny rail. Adjusting that back by about 2" helped quite a bit.

I probably should just inlet the stock for a full rail rather than trying to work around the current half rail. Coming from service rifle where no external modifications are allowed really, I'm still wrapping my head around what I need to do to the rifle to make it work for me instead of the other way around.

Even without changing anything beyond moving the sight back, it shoots well. I shot this yesterday afternoon in just a polo shirt and cargo pants, using a web sling off of my service rifle, and $5 a box Federal Gold Medal from the local store. No coat, no mat, no glove, no pants, etc. 50 yards, prone and slung in, on an A-23 (NRA 50 yd) bull.

50 yd prone by Jenricketenriss, on Flickr

Also a question about the sight:

So the top is marked with a T and B, if I have it figured correctly the T is down? Also the windage is marked with the common L and R, but seems as though turning it in the direction indicated by the L (normally to move the bullet strike left) instead causes it to move the strike to the right. Is this normal?

-Jenrick

Jenrick,

The sight turrets are marked in German; the elevation turret is T and H. T means Tief, and H means Hoch for Low and High. The markings refer to where the shots are, not the direction you want to move. It's easier to think that clockwise moves shots down or left, and anticlockwise moves shots high and right.

The markings refer to where the shots are, not the direction you want to move.

Okay so if the shot is high, I move the sight in the Hoch direction? Same with if the shot is right I move the sight in the Right direction?

-Jenrick

Yes, but it's easier to think of turning clockwise and anticlockwise. Many shooters have a small memory jogging diagram (often with arrows) in their ammo box just in case they forget.

Based on your target you need to come down (clockwise) a few clicks.

For German sights, simply point your right thumb in the direction you want the bullet strike to move. Up, down, left or right. The direction of the curl of your fingers is the direction you move the knobs.

If it shoots high, move it high....H

if it shoots low, move it TO the bull....T

If it is shooting to the right, move it to the right

if it is shooting to the left, move it to the left

Bob, Spektr - Thanks both of those are quick and easy ways to remember which way to turn!

-Jenrick