TargetTalk

Hi, Out of curiosity I chronied my 162m when full, halfway through a tank and getting near yellow shooting finale match pistol pellets. The results are pictured. The average velocity is very nearly spec (which I think is 500fps) however the spread doesn't look so good.

What is the likely culprit... a dirty hammer or a regulator in need of servicing?

Its not that bad!
The diference between a 510fps shot and a 490 fps shot is only 2mm at 10 meters!
I used Hawke ChairGun Pro for trajectory calculation!

I always heard a 5 to 10 m/s is acceptable! 20 fps is around 6m/s

looks nice too me... dont blame your gun ;)

In case Rover's too busy to reply:

Ya shoulda bought a Pardini K58.

Clean the Hammer and Hammer channel, also try
a different brand of pellet.
Compare the results.......
What chronograph are you using ? (can make a difference)

Since William is concerned: The NRA tested a SSP (quite a while back) and got an extreme velocity spread of 2 fps.

I also recommend a Walther LPM1 and FWB 100 series in addition to the aforementioned K58.

I don't think the numbers above are unreasonable....................for a PCP.

Rover, I don't disagree at all. When I had time to spend (waste?) launching pellets and other projectiles over a chrony I shot 50 pellets through my Izh46, original not one of those newfangled 46Ms, and had an extreme spread of 5 or 6 fps. Nobody ever said an SSP can't do everything at least as well as a scuba gun.

Just to add to the horror.....I got in a new sleeve of RWS Basic pellets and (shudder) the test group was larger than my R10 control batch. What shall I do?

Maybe I shouldn't be concerned. After all, I tested them in a PCP.

Given that a match consists of 60 shots & sighters, what are you worried about.
Most competitive shooters would change or refill after a match.
Yes you can shoot until the locking mech kicks in (around 100 bar) ,but I have never found any real difference in accuracy .
I used to shoot my Steyer down to 50 bar would still group.
Just shoot your pistol and enjoy.

As I said I did it out of curiosity and knew the difference in POI at 10m would be at most 0.23" (via chairgun) and that it wouldn't make much of any difference to my scores. But I like to test stuff and keep it working clean and tight :-) BTW, I'm using the Caldwell chrony connected to my android phone for logging.

The 10m AP and PCP hunting rifle communities are so different. The right pellet makes such a difference in the rifles and i've sent tens of tins of pellets over a chrony tuning PCP rifles. Its difficult for me starting out in AP to not test pellets and chrony the pistol to make sure its as accurate as can be. But after reading here and proving to myself by testing with my pistol it is all about the shooter, not the gun.

william wrote:In case Rover's too busy to reply:

Ya shoulda bought a Pardini K58.

....you should get the latest evolution of Mr. Cesare Morini....only 0.4m/s with my MGH1, and most of the shot with 172.00m/s.
Sorry guys :-)

wasatch wrote:As I said I did it out of curiosity and knew the difference in POI at 10m would be at most 0.23" (via chairgun) and that it wouldn't make much of any difference to my scores.

I don't agree that it does not make any difference. I usually shoot at least a couple of 9.9 every ten shot series.
Those mm can make a difference between a 9.6 and a 10! I would not like to waste a couple of 10s every series

theRider, true enough but only in a sector above and below center with diminishing effect further to the side. And even less effect with my current ability to shoot ;-)

Is getting at the hammer for a clean very difficult on the 162m?

no, it' really easy: remove cylinder & grip, then loosen 162078( wrench should be included), there you are. you may need to press the trigger to get the bolt (162069) out. then clean with alcohol/ compressed air, and if you put it back together lubricate the bolt,if at all, just very slightly with some grease which contains graphite(but as written before, you dont need to). done

p.S: if you lubricate, the grease should contain something like graphite, otherwise the bolt wont work properly

flolo wrote:no, it' really easy: remove cylinder & grip, then loosen 162078( wrench should be included), there you are. you may need to press the trigger to get the bolt (162069) out. then clean with alcohol/ compressed air, and if you put it back together lubricate the bolt,if at all, just very slightly with some grease which contains graphite(but as written before, you dont need to). done

p.S: if you lubricate, the grease should contain something like graphite, otherwise the bolt wont work properly

My gut feeling/experience as a Mechanical Engineering drop-out tells me this is a bad idea. Grease seems unnecessary/overkill and would be detrimental to precision over time as the grease got shittier.

You could try replacing the regulator assembly and/or get it fastidiously clean.

... or ask a genuine expert.

As an addendum/something to think about: I use STGW 57 grease on my .455 for the self ejecting mechanism, seems to work good.

Clean the bolt and channel of any dirt, dust and grease build up,
do not lube bolt... put back dry... NO GREASE.
The other cause of velocity variation is barrel lead, pellet quality
and the working seals, barrel, loading bolt and quad ring.
Pressure reg should be OK, clean and lube with new seals every
5-7 years (Seals dry out and crack with time).

Thanks very much everyone!

As written before, no grease is needed, but thats the way the morini service guys at the worldcups do it.

In the past I have used a dry moly paste on the bolt by rubbing a thin coat onto the surface then burnishing with a lint free cloth. Is this also not recommended?

Trade it in on a single stroke pneumatic!