Dry-Firing A Marvel Conversion

TomJ · Post by **TomJ** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:47 am

I apologize if this question has been asked before, however, I've recently purchased a Unit 1 Marvel lock-back conversion. I would like to practice dry-firing. I've used #6 drywall screws, however the rims fall off after one or two drops of the hammer when I eject them. Previously fired cases won't fit in the chamber. A fellow bullseye shooter, who shoots Marvels exclusively said that he cuts one of those magnetic cards that companies use to advertise that you put on your refrigerator (One advantage being that it sticks to the breech face). My question is, "Is that a safe way to dry-fire the Marvel?" If not, what do you suggest. Thanks, Tom

Dr. Jim · Post by **Dr. Jim** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:57 am

Should be fine, I use a piece of plastic from a margarine tub lid. I don't operate the slide, just cocking the hammer by hand. With the Marvel the problem is that the firing pin drives against the breach face. 1911 hammer fall is somewhat on the heavy side, but reducing the mainspring force too much will slow lock time unacceptably.

At least that's my view.

Cheers.

1911nut · Post by **1911nut** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:05 pm

I use the orange plastic saf t trainers.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d9923.aspx

I also tried the drywall inserts in my Marvel U1 and found they didn't hold up.

With the saf t trainers I get 4 or 5 shots then turn them - you could get about 40 shots per each.
You can load several in you magazine and just eject after 5 shots.

Been using them for years - Gil Hebard had the best price now it's Brownells.
Some places charge upward of a dollar each.

DLS · Post by **DLS** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:24 pm

How difficult is it to remove the firing pin?

If it's easy, as with a .45 just pull the pin during practice, leave it on the bench in front of you and make sure it goes back into the gun as soon as practice is over.

Are you sure you can't dry fire the kit? Does the firing pin actually hit the chamber in the fully dropped position. I'd be surprised that a currently manufactured training device would not have a positive stop allowing dry firing to occur. If not you could you reduce firing pin length to where it is just short of contacting the chamber face? This will allow dry firing and not affect ignition. Sorry for the guesses, I've not played with these units.

I hope this helps.

dronning · Post by **dronning** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:03 pm

From Bob Marvel
http://www.guntalk-online.com/images/Ma ... ioning.pdf

"Dry Firing
The marvel conversions were designed to be dry fired, however it is suggested that a leather tap be placed behind the firing pin if you dry fire excessively."

The firing pin is designed (tapered) to match a taper in the firing pin block and bottom out before touching the barrel face unlike many .22s. I sure with excessive dry firing you may hammer this to the point where there isn't any clearance left.

Pulling the firing pin - not fun: You have to remove the slide, drift out the extractor pin and remove the firing pin block screw secured with red Loctite, pull out the firing pin block. With the block removed it's now time swear up a storm at the pin holding the firing pin in place because it will not budge at first. Hint you must work on a solid surface (steel).

1911nut · Post by **1911nut** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:06 pm

Extremely difficult to remove firing pin in Marvel U1.

I have 3 and have replaced firing pins or disassembled for cleaning.

It takes a Torx driver to remove breech block from slide - not too difficult but the pin that holds the firing pin in must be pressed in at the factory with a 100 ton press.

I bent a Starrett punch removing one.

I should have sent mine back to Marvel for FP replacement but I'm too stubborn/stupid.

The info Dronning provided is for the original Bob Marvel conversion - I don't know if it applies to the newer Marvel Precision.

DLS · Post by **DLS** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:36 am

Well okay then! <GRIN>

I guess pulling the pin is out!

But it seems it's not necessary on these anyway ...

Thanks for the knowledge gentlemen!

Jerry Keefer · Post by **Jerry Keefer** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:49 pm

DLS wrote:Well okay then! <GRIN>

But it seems it's not necessary on these anyway ...

Eaaaa...Yes and No...
Any .22 should be checked, by a smith for head space and firing pin protrusion. It only takes one hit on the chamber face to wreck things.. Even if you don't dry fire your .22, a mis feed, that leaves the chamber empty during a string of fire, is a possible risk. Also check for hammer/firing pin clearance..Freeplay between the two.. It's not good for the pin to stop against the retaining pin while still under hammer pressure. The pin should have some free play.
Jerry

TomJ · Post by **TomJ** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:54 pm

Jerry - I've read several of your posts and know that you are highly regarded for your pistolsmithing. So back to my original question, "Can I safely (not cause harm to the firing pin or breech-face) use a magnetic credit card or piece of plastic similar in thickness to the top of a margerine container to dry fire my Marvel? I'd appreciate your feedback. Thanks, Tom

Jerry Keefer · Post by **Jerry Keefer** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:02 pm

TomJ wrote:Jerry - I've read several of your posts and know that you are highly regarded for your pistolsmithing. So back to my original question, "Can I safely (not cause harm to the firing pin or breech-face) use a magnetic credit card or piece of plastic similar in thickness to the top of a margerine container to dry fire my Marvel? I'd appreciate your feedback. Thanks, Tom

Sorry for the late reply, Tom...I've been working all night trying to keep my pipes from freezing..:( zero weather is rare in this part of Va.
Some form of protection is a very good idea, until the dimensions of the system can be checked. Larry's guns sells a .22 cartridge shaped insert with a tab to exclude the extractor.. Very good insurance for a small price. A match chamber on a match barrel is worth protecting..:)
Jerry

TomJ · Post by **TomJ** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 5:41 pm

A Thank you Jerry and everyone else who responded to my request for help. Tom

ciscovt · Post by **ciscovt** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:01 pm

I insert a yellow #4 (I think) dry wall anchor in the chamber and then as I close the action I also place a piece of a rubber band shaped like this. ( hopefully, see attached jpg) I bought a pack large rubber bands at Staples. Get 2-3 dry Fire protectors out of each. Using the rubber band keeps the dry wall anchor good for hundreds of dry fires. Replace the rubber piece when it gets too nasty with carbon etc.

Scott,
Vermont

trulyapostolic · Post by **trulyapostolic** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:29 pm

I use the fired casings that came out of my gun for dry firing.

TargetTalk

Dry-Firing A Marvel Conversion

Dry-Firing A Marvel Conversion

Dry Firing a Marvel conversion