TargetTalk

Hi, everyone, I just bought Walther CP2 and really needed help charging gun's cylinder. I attached fill adapter to the CO2 tank, then screw in CP2 cylinder then open the CO2 tank valve. After may be about 5 second or so I close the tank valve then tried to remove the cylinder but so tightlly attached to the adapter now (I guess because under the pressure) very difficult to unscrew the cylinder. Is this normal? I felt like damaging both side screw thread. Please help me before I damage my gun.

I'd put a little grease on the threads, but I guess that's why they have a hex on the end for a wrench

I put some air gun oil on the thread but still very scarlly. This is normal then....... this never was issue on my Paintball guns though I installed valve pin switch on/off on them, but I can't do the same thing to this Walther cylinders. I thought I'm doing something wrong.

I have a CP-3, but...
I do use the hand (circular, palm-sized handle) hex wrench when attaching the cylinder to the tank adaptor. Yes, it's a bit tighter on removal after I close off the tank valve. I do use gloves to keep my fingers cozy and free from CO2 spray, which can happen. The only time I've used an open end wrench is on the tank fittings to keep them from rotating on the tank connection as I turn the cylinder's hex wrench (by hand) to attach or remove the cylinder. Normally I can hold those tank fastenings in place with a gloved hand. Do you chill the cylinders?

Yes, I cool them down a bit before recharge. How's your adaptor/cylinder screw thread condition???

Nice and shiny and clean, crisp threads. Though once I had a bit of wood-chip that fell in/on the cylinder threads which provided exciting white vapor for a second or two.

Thank you Rover and jps III for very kind response.
I guess I have to figure out way to attach (temporally) my paintball ASA or Drop to the gun so I could use small paintball CO2 tank.

mag gizmo wrote:Hi, everyone, I just bought Walther CP2 and really needed help charging gun's cylinder. I attached fill adapter to the CO2 tank, then screw in CP2 cylinder then open the CO2 tank valve. After may be about 5 second or so I close the tank valve then tried to remove the cylinder but so tightlly attached to the adapter now (I guess because under the pressure) very difficult to unscrew the cylinder. Is this normal? I felt like damaging both side screw thread. Please help me before I damage my gun.

Does your fill station have a way to vent the pressure in the device prior to disconnecting the cylinder and valve from the device?

If not, the pressure in the line is probably causing this issue.

We manufacture the Benjamin fill stations that begin with part number FAHxxx. They range from FAH002 up to FAH007. Here's a device we manufacture that will probably be a better fit for your application if the fill station you're using does not have a bleed valve or way to vent the pressure after filling.

http://www.ninjapaintball.com/newfillstations.html
(please look at the Ninja Deluxe Mini CO2 Fill Station)

Thanks and I hope this information helps.

The Walther CPn pistols came with a "wrench" to unscrew the cylinders. This was a large round black plastic knob with a hex socket in the end. It mated with the hex on the end of the cylinder.

I don't recall if venting the pressure from the fill adapter once the tank valve is closed will work. You may have to unscrew the cylinder at least a turn or so first to close the tank valve. I just used the wrench, and never had a problem.

Using the wrench to loosen the cylinder would damage the o-ring and create an outburst of co2. You have to find a way/making a device of releasing the pressure after you have turned off the gas from the master cylinder. DON'T use force, use sense.

A tip that I use that may be of some use for you.
I put an old cylinder "O ring" over the shaft of the filling adaptor, hard up against the nut that screws onto your master refill bottle. When you screw your empty cylinder on to be refilled, you screw the cylinder on firmly but you won't have to screw your cylinder on so tight that it is difficult to then get it off. This "O ring" helps seal the cylinder from leaking when filling.
The cylinder MUST be chilled to the state of frost on the metal to allow liquid gas to transfer (Caution, hands will stick to the cold metal). This frost will go as the liquid CO2 transfers.

"Using the wrench to loosen the cylinder would damage the o-ring and create an outburst of co2. You have to find a way/making a device of releasing the pressure after you have turned off the gas from the master cylinder. DON'T use force, use sense."

Not a CO2 gun, but my old LP1 cylinders will only fill if you DON'T bleed them before unscrewing.

With my three different Walthers I just used the wrench and had no problem with the O rings. I prefer a box end wrench to the Walther issued "knob." I always unscrewed from the fill tank by hand and from the gun with a wrench (Pardini K60s, too).
In the Arizona heat it was easy to fill the CO2 cylinders enough for them to lock up. Fill without chill worked fine.

If you just need a way to vent, this should be a good fit for what you're looking to do. This will fill and vent as long as your co2 valve is the same thread we use in paintball.

http://www.ninjapaintball.com/newfillstations.html
(please look at the Ninja Deluxe Mini CO2 Fill Station)

They are about $60 + shipping. Found one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Ninja-Operation-D ... deluxe+co2

Incidentally, does anyone happen to know the cost of buying two new cylinders from Walther. Mine, on a CP2 I have recently bought, have needed seals and springs replaced and rust cleaned out. And are still leaking!!!

On the Walther web site, they list new steel cylinders for the CP2 at Euro 159.00.
http://www.carl-walther.de/cw.php?lang= ... oduct=1124

Maybe it's time you went for another "OE" and bring home 2 or 3 in your suitcase ;)

And how many for you Gerald?

At that price, 2 new cylinder would be more than the pistol itself!

If it was mine, and I was determined to keep it going, I would just keep fiddling with the old cyliners until the leaks were resolved rather than sinking that kind of money into it.

If you want to spend money, just get a whole new (or at least later model) pistol!

OK J-Team, what have you got for me? I've about had a gutsful of this gun. I get the cylinders working then find gas leaks right thru the gun and out the barrell and breech, pull it apart and find no o rings inside and push valve. If I buy those overseas, there is no telling whether other parts might be missing. Now I find that the cylinders may be too old for competition and I can't travel with empty cylinders and recharge in NZ anyway. Too many obstacles--will probably take it back to the shop. Anything legal,straight shooting and working lying around NZ anyone?

OK J-Team, what have you got for me? I've about had a gutsful of this gun. I get the cylinders working then find gas leaks right thru the gun and out the barrell and breech, pull it apart and find no o rings inside and push valve. If I buy those overseas, there is no telling whether other parts might be missing. Now I find that the cylinders may be too old for competition and I can't travel with empty cylinders and recharge in NZ anyway. Too many obstacles--will probably take it back to the shop. Anything legal,straight shooting and working lying around NZ anyone?