TargetTalk

So I have been working on a friends Pardini P10 SSP 10m Pistol for quite some time. I have put in a complete new seal kit from pardini and long story short if you dry fire it it seems to work ok with a loud blast of air exiting the barrel but if you put a pellet in (just a regular .177 7gr pellet with a standard 4.49 head size) it will sometimes but not every time when you pull the trigger act like there is valve lock and the pellet will not exit the barrel. All you hear is a click. When this happens you have to carefully open up the pump lever and when you do the pellet then exits the barrel and the pump lever wants to fly open. Its like its valve lock. I even installed a new straight from pardini hammer spring and I have tried shimming the hammer spring with a few washers to increase the spring pre tension. I am about to pull out my hair with this thing. What the heck is going on with this seemingly simple SSP pistol? Anyone work on one of these and experience this? Any help is much appreciated.

Dont have much experience with SSP's, but with co2/pcp there should nót be any air escaping when dry firing.
I've had problems with a Walther CO2 with the dryfire/fire knob being stuck. Even if it was on dry fire position, it stíll had an open valve cause it dumped all its co2.
Maybe yr knob is sticky as well?

Unlike a IZH-46m this pardini does not have any dry fire mechanism or separate cocking to just cock the valve. You have to charge it with air by using the pump arm and then the pistol auto cocks. I appreciate the response though.

If the cocking arm wants to spring open, it means that the air was not released and is pushing the piston back.

This means you have a problem with the valve (you've covered the other bases). I suspect some fung in the valve. Try hosing it out with solvent or disassembling it for cleaning. Do NOT try to cock the gun with any solvent in the works; instant repair bill.

Let us know what you find out.

BTW That P10 is a neat little number; ideal for kids and women. If I ever see one I'll buy it.

However I have been in the valve and I replaced the o-ring in the valve and I used q-tips to clean the thing on the inside. It looks really really clean. I guess it could be possible that something is clogged up in there but it looks spotless. I could take it apart and hose it down and let it dry then clean it again and reassemble but if I take a flashlight and look down through the top seal I can see right into the valve. It acts like there is to much air for it to dump but just barely. I tell you this thing really has me stumped.

I don't know if it will help, but I had a problem with my K58 not dumping all the air on a shot. Increasing the valve spring tension fixed it, but it looks like you covered that.

Did you just shim it or did you put in a different spring? What do you think caused your problem? Spring fatigue? I tried a replacement spring and a few washers but I found that if I put to many washers in it the valve would not cock.

Rover wrote:I don't know if it will help, but I had a problem with my K58 not dumping all the air on a shot. Increasing the valve spring tension fixed it, but it looks like you covered that.

A long time ago - so that I don't remember the details - my K58 did the same thing, and I was able to fix it by turning the power adjust screw at the back. I assume that screw varies the tension on the hammer spring, but I can't remember which way I turned the screw.

Thinking about it now, I would guess that less tension on the hammer spring would cure the problem, not more tension. Less tension would allow the valve to remain open longer to exhaust all the air.

FredB

Clockwise increases the tension. I increased the tension about a half turn and it solved my problem.

It won't hurt to try anything. You KNOW your spring isn't tired.

Rover wrote:Clockwise increases the tension. I increased the tension about a half turn and it solved my problem.

It won't hurt to try anything. You KNOW your spring isn't tired.

After more thought, I think Rover must be right. I believe I did the same thing he describes, and that, the way the valve operates, greater tension on the hammer spring would keep the valve open longer. Please disregard my comment above.

FredB

Clearly there is a fine line of balance between hammer spring and pressure in the valve. I wish the P10 had a adjustment screw for hammer tension but it doesnt. I have tried the weaker old spring and the new spring which seems just a touch stouter (probably cause its new) and I have also used between 1, 2, and 3 washers to shim it and make the spring pretension harder and still sometimes it will shoot out a pellet but more times that not it will not and all you hear is a click. I have 4 washers but if I use all 4 the valve will not set. I am about out of ideas :( I am going to go to ACE hardware and look at their springs and see if one of them might work. I hate to throw in the towel on this little pistol as my friend spent $75 on seals and small parts and I have spent probably 20 hours total on this thing trying to find the right combo to make it reliably work. I wish I could wave my magic wand and get it fixed up it seems to point so well and is a nice quality unit. I wonder if this spring hammer issue is why they went to the adjustable hammer spring tension on the slightly newer K58? Any other ideas? I sure appreciate everyone input and suggestions. :)

Unless Scott or Butch chimes in you're not getting much help.

Why not give Pilk a call?

Another thought; take a dry Q-Tip and test the striker and the hole for burrs.

BTW Most air guns now have striker tension adjustment screws for adjusting power (and have for a long time). No point in that with a SSP, except to compensate for a tired spring. The K58 had many parts interchangeable with the K60 CO2 gun.