TargetTalk

HI:
MY STEYR LP10 AIR PISTOL MUZLE VELOCITY IS LOW. I SAW IN YOUTUBE THE WAY TO INCREASE THE VELOCITY BUT WHEN I TURN THE SCREW JUST A FEW IN CLOCKWISE WAY THE PISTOL CAN'T BE "LOADED".

Quite obviously you turned too many times. Back off until the gun functions again-----"Doc"

ACTUALLY, FROM THE ORIGINAL POINT OF ADJUSTMEN, I CAN'T MOVE NEITHER A QUARTER OF TURN

Did you loosen the set screw on the side first?

First, all caps = shouting. It's painfull to read.

Second, if you're 1/4 turn from non-functional and still have low pressure, you need more service than what you can do yourself. It needs to be sent to a professional to be fixed.

That part will actually come out when the set screw is loosened, make sure that it is fully seated before you retighten the set screw, push it in with your finger to make sure it's fully seated.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ADVISES

Hi favelini
if you have shot from a pistol a few thousands of shoots, then the problem may be caused by a too soft screw (20), see ad 3) picture on http://www.sskpraha6.cz/docs/LP10_problems.htm . I've already found two pistols LP10 and one LP2 that spring (52) will begin to gradually crushing screw (20). If the screw face deformation exceeds a certain limit, not pull the trigger after adding muzzle velocity. The trigger not sear simply. The easiest way to solve the problem by replacing the new screw (20). Screw should be harder than the spring to not repeat the problem (to need hardness greater than 45HRC)
Petr

hi pbrejsa:
thank you very much for your advise. after read it, i solved the problem

You can use Google Translate to convert to English... I had to do so.

Tillman

Description of fault:

Ad 3) After turning the screw (20) clockwise to increase muzzle velocity, the trigger mechanism can not stretch. Sear notch does not work. In short, you can not shoot until the screw (20) will not return back.

The cause of this defect appeared after a while to find and disassembly of the trigger mechanism. The firing pin spring (52), which is relatively rigid, pushed out in time to head screw (20) by a kind of saddle and not only that the compressive force gradually decreased the spring force and then muzzle velocity, but also spring pressure damaged thread of the screw face (20). The edge of the thread, then when you turn the screw broke into several parts and the small separate part of the irregular and varied disrupt operation of the trigger. In this case added up several influences than the failure. If this happens, perhaps the simplest he will defect to be repaired by the manufacturer guns, especially when the gun is under warranty. Finally, it is his mess, so let cares, right? Otherwise, in this case (4 years applied LP10) "temporarily" helped steel roller distance at 2 to 2.5 mm embedded in the bottom part of the cavity (19), was increased by preload spring (52) and everything was set up and worked as had. This was for me yet sneakiest fault (difficult to detect), which resulted in LP10.

Sorry for my translate trial. I will not be better & google translator.

Sounds like either you had some sort of material defect in your pistol or through some adjustment parts were damaged. My LP 10 is over ten years old and shows no such wear or damage. With the thousands of LP10's around for such a long time I really doubt it's a design flaw.

What velocity was your pistol shooting at originally, what was it adjusted to and what velocity did it end up at after the damage was done.

Richard, I agree, the LP10 pistol design is OK. My LP10 (made ​​in 2008) has had about 45,000 shots and still works perfectly.

In both my familiar cases the problem was in the very soft surface of the screw (20). Both pistols were made ​​in early 2005 and fired many tens of thousands of shots. Muzzle velocity gradually decreased (up to 105 to 120 m / s), and until it can be always adjusted to the original value of 155 m / s.

Now it is clear that it had to be manufactured and installed more than 2 soft screws.

Petr