BASICALLY I'M AFTER A TOP QUALITY CUSTOM MADE ADJUSTABLE GRIP. WILLING TO PAY.
MY LOCATION IS AUSTRALIA, YET I REALIZE THE BEST GRIP MAKERS ARE SCATTERED ALL OVER THE WORLD AND I CAN'T GET TO THEM RIGHT NOW. I'VE SEEN SOME PLACES ONLINE WHERE YOU OUTLINE YOUR HAND AND THEY TAKE MEASUREMENTS. HOWEVER, I'D PREFER ONE WHERE AN IMPRINT OF MY HAND CAN BE TAKEN THROUGH A SILICON MOLD TO GET IT REALLY RIGHT AND THEN SENT TO THEM. IF ANYONE HAS SUGGESTIONS OF SUCH PLACES OR OTHERWISE, I WOULD BE VERY THANKFUL.
I SHOOT A PARDINI
RIGHT HANDED
CUSTOM MADE GRIPS
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To get a grip carved really right for your particular hand, I'd suggest that a local carver would be the best bet. Someone at least a bit familiar with target pistol grip requirements would be good, but if you supply a talented carver with some pictures taken from online resources they should be able to understand the basic mechanical requirements. Give that person a choice of wood, your current pistol and grip, and work with them on making the grip slightly too large at first so that it can be carved in stages. A couple of 'fittings' such as one would do with a tailor ought to get it quite close to perfect.
I'm a violin maker, not a grip maker, and have no intention of going into commercial custom grip carving as my plate is rather full with my work. But as an example of what can be done, here is the maple (dyed a blue-green and sealed with several coats of a long oil varnish similar to the 'Tru Oil' used by grip and stock makers, this one called 'Tried & True' from Lee Valley Tools. I started with the basics, correcting a slight tendency in my IZH-46m to aim left when in my hand by carving the new mortise at a slightly different angle. I also made the rake angle adjustable using a bolt from the rear, enlarging the mortise, modifying the metal grip tang for the new hardware, as I needed a steeper rake for better wrist lock. I chose not to use an adjustable palm shelf, as I like it simple and just fitting, but it could be re-carved later for a movable palm shelf should I change my mind. Anyway, just an example of what a modestly skilled carver might do for you without any real specialist training. I do much better work with instruments, but was impatient to start shooting with this one so the finish isn't all that smooth.
I'm sure you can find someone in Australia, even near to you, who could render very nicely fitted grips out of gumwood for example. I used western big leaf maple, as I happened to have a piece with enough wood in it for a nice violin and a grip left over. I'd suggest if you're using email to contact carvers that YOU DON'T USE ALL CAPITAL LETTERS, AS THIS IS GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD AS YELLING! Best of luck.[/img]
I'm a violin maker, not a grip maker, and have no intention of going into commercial custom grip carving as my plate is rather full with my work. But as an example of what can be done, here is the maple (dyed a blue-green and sealed with several coats of a long oil varnish similar to the 'Tru Oil' used by grip and stock makers, this one called 'Tried & True' from Lee Valley Tools. I started with the basics, correcting a slight tendency in my IZH-46m to aim left when in my hand by carving the new mortise at a slightly different angle. I also made the rake angle adjustable using a bolt from the rear, enlarging the mortise, modifying the metal grip tang for the new hardware, as I needed a steeper rake for better wrist lock. I chose not to use an adjustable palm shelf, as I like it simple and just fitting, but it could be re-carved later for a movable palm shelf should I change my mind. Anyway, just an example of what a modestly skilled carver might do for you without any real specialist training. I do much better work with instruments, but was impatient to start shooting with this one so the finish isn't all that smooth.
I'm sure you can find someone in Australia, even near to you, who could render very nicely fitted grips out of gumwood for example. I used western big leaf maple, as I happened to have a piece with enough wood in it for a nice violin and a grip left over. I'd suggest if you're using email to contact carvers that YOU DON'T USE ALL CAPITAL LETTERS, AS THIS IS GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD AS YELLING! Best of luck.[/img]
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RapidShoota
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 8:43 am
GERARD
[I'd suggest if you're using email to contact carvers that YOU DON'T USE ALL CAPITAL LETTERS, AS THIS IS GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD AS YELLING!]
My Bad. I'm new to the site and wasn't aware that CAPITAL LETTERS equal yelling. However, if I don't get a grip to fit perfectly, I WILL GO CRAZY!!!!
Regarding your pics, great job. It seriously looks comfortable and that is the type of detail I'm after to ensure as little movement as possible.
Really appreciate the time you took to explain everything and show case your efforts.
Cheers[/quote]
[I'd suggest if you're using email to contact carvers that YOU DON'T USE ALL CAPITAL LETTERS, AS THIS IS GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD AS YELLING!]
My Bad. I'm new to the site and wasn't aware that CAPITAL LETTERS equal yelling. However, if I don't get a grip to fit perfectly, I WILL GO CRAZY!!!!
Regarding your pics, great job. It seriously looks comfortable and that is the type of detail I'm after to ensure as little movement as possible.
Really appreciate the time you took to explain everything and show case your efforts.
Cheers[/quote]
Custom Grips
I have noticed a number of posts on this topic. Some have put in a link to Rink Grips (formgriffe) who will make a custom grip from an outline of your hand.
There has been a post on another European grip maker who will send you a silicone kit which allows you to take an impression of your hand. Can't remember the name, but perhaps someone can help you with it.
Keep partying with the Pardini!! Top Gun!!
There has been a post on another European grip maker who will send you a silicone kit which allows you to take an impression of your hand. Can't remember the name, but perhaps someone can help you with it.
Keep partying with the Pardini!! Top Gun!!
Ah, much better RapidShoota. Something about CAPS just seems to make my head hurt. I've seen others post in various forums that CAPS are actually more difficult to read, but haven't come across any scientific proof to that effect. It's just a general Internet rule though, anywhere you go. Sort of like the way it's considered bad taste and hard on the eyes to use garish blinking graphics or scrolling marquees. Screens are hard enough on the eyes, especially for shooters, without adding other difficulties.
I see Rink's site here:
http://www.formgriffe.de/index.php?&c=e
I couldn't find anything on a silicone rubber fitting kit, but I've heard of that as well somewhere. The standard approach in making a grip really fit well is to start adding epoxy putty, the kind which comes in stick form in hardware stores. You chop off a bit, knead the inner and outer layers together to activate, and then you've got a few minutes to get it stuck into place and roughly moulded to your hand. A rubber glove might be a good idea. Once hardened overnight (some are faster) it's not hard to carve, file, and sand this until it fits well. Adding more if you take off too much, or if you didn't add enough in the first place, is as easy every time.
This was the approach I used with a standard Baikal 46m grip, which was much too small for my hand and set at the wrong angle. But I built it up a few times, carved some of the putty and the wood where needed, and once it was close to where I wanted it the way to carve the wooden grip became obvious. I just left everything on the wooden version a bit too big, then shot a few sessions to find out where it most needed to be carved down until getting it just right. That's why I suggest working with a nearby carver if you're not handy with tools yourself. I used a conical, round-nosed carbide burr mounted in a drill for most of the hollows for fingers and such, with bigger hollows carved with a gouge. The convex curves I made with a knife then a rasp, then a file, and finally sandpaper and a small, sharp scraper. If you take care to use finer and finer removal tools as you go there is less danger of going too far in the wooden version.
I see Rink's site here:
http://www.formgriffe.de/index.php?&c=e
I couldn't find anything on a silicone rubber fitting kit, but I've heard of that as well somewhere. The standard approach in making a grip really fit well is to start adding epoxy putty, the kind which comes in stick form in hardware stores. You chop off a bit, knead the inner and outer layers together to activate, and then you've got a few minutes to get it stuck into place and roughly moulded to your hand. A rubber glove might be a good idea. Once hardened overnight (some are faster) it's not hard to carve, file, and sand this until it fits well. Adding more if you take off too much, or if you didn't add enough in the first place, is as easy every time.
This was the approach I used with a standard Baikal 46m grip, which was much too small for my hand and set at the wrong angle. But I built it up a few times, carved some of the putty and the wood where needed, and once it was close to where I wanted it the way to carve the wooden grip became obvious. I just left everything on the wooden version a bit too big, then shot a few sessions to find out where it most needed to be carved down until getting it just right. That's why I suggest working with a nearby carver if you're not handy with tools yourself. I used a conical, round-nosed carbide burr mounted in a drill for most of the hollows for fingers and such, with bigger hollows carved with a gouge. The convex curves I made with a knife then a rasp, then a file, and finally sandpaper and a small, sharp scraper. If you take care to use finer and finer removal tools as you go there is less danger of going too far in the wooden version.
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RapidShoota
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 8:43 am
Gerard,
I've looked closely at the Rink website. They do very good work an I can tell you their customer service is fabulous. However the system where the company sends you the hand molding kit and you send it back is the type of service that I'm after.
If you or anyone in out there can remember the name or supply me with a link I'd be eternally grateful....
RapidShoota
I've looked closely at the Rink website. They do very good work an I can tell you their customer service is fabulous. However the system where the company sends you the hand molding kit and you send it back is the type of service that I'm after.
If you or anyone in out there can remember the name or supply me with a link I'd be eternally grateful....
RapidShoota
Männel is what you are looking for http://www.maennel.at/cms/RapidShoota wrote:However the system where the company sends you the hand molding kit and you send it back is the type of service that I'm after.
If you or anyone in out there can remember the name or supply me with a link I'd be eternally grateful....
RapidShoota
Ahh sorry, Männel does not do grips for a Pardini as far as I can tell.TB wrote:Männel is what you are looking for http://www.maennel.at/cms/RapidShoota wrote:However the system where the company sends you the hand molding kit and you send it back is the type of service that I'm after.
If you or anyone in out there can remember the name or supply me with a link I'd be eternally grateful....
RapidShoota
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RapidShoota
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 8:43 am
TB,
Thank you very much. I believe this is the company I was searching for. I'm interested to see how spot on they can get to fir a grip using their foam in a box hand shaping method.
It may not be made specifically for the pardini, however the beginning is getting a grip to fir my hand so there is no movement and all hand is in contact..
Really appreciate your help. Thank you again
RapidShoota
Thank you very much. I believe this is the company I was searching for. I'm interested to see how spot on they can get to fir a grip using their foam in a box hand shaping method.
It may not be made specifically for the pardini, however the beginning is getting a grip to fir my hand so there is no movement and all hand is in contact..
Really appreciate your help. Thank you again
RapidShoota
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David Levene
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:49 pm
- Location: Ruislip, UK
Their grips are made by Ciro who used to be Morini's grip maker and is probably one of the most experienced grip makers around.antispar wrote:Does anyone have experience with Maennel grip? It seems the company comprises from former Steyr employees and it product line is based on Steyr AP/AR.
I have seen grips he has custom made for shooters who went to see him (when he was still with Morini) and they seemed to fit extremely well.
I have also seen the standard grips Maennel sell and, whilst they look very nice, they will only be any good if they fit you.
I'm afraid that I have not seen grips Ciro has made either from a hand tracing or a mould so cannot comment (which is probably the area you really wanted comment on).
I think your priority ought to be getting a good brand of epoxy putty stick and getting to work on customizing the one you have now. Put on a rubber glove and squish the putty into what feels like a good form. Carve it if needed after hardening. That will give you a better idea of exactly the shape of grip you need, making shopping for a carved, or oversized but carvable grip a lot easier.
Hi,
I think Rink can offer you the same service.
He sends out a 'rough' grip and some putty.
You adapt the grip as you like and send it back to him. He will copie to the final grip.
The big advantage is that you take your time and can test the grip at the range, make modifications if needed and so on.
I had my grip for my CM162ei done like that.
Don't know if he also does it for Australia.
Ask him by email.
I think Rink can offer you the same service.
He sends out a 'rough' grip and some putty.
You adapt the grip as you like and send it back to him. He will copie to the final grip.
The big advantage is that you take your time and can test the grip at the range, make modifications if needed and so on.
I had my grip for my CM162ei done like that.
Don't know if he also does it for Australia.
Ask him by email.
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RapidShoota
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 8:43 am
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RapidShoota
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2011 8:43 am
TB,
Further to that, I'd like the grip to have an adjustable palm shelf which cancels some grip makers out.
Depending on the weather, hands change in size from fluid and swelling etc.
The adjustable palm shelf keeps things in check, especially as rapid fire is extremely tight fitting grip orientated, well at least in my opinion.
Thanks to all
RapidShoota
Further to that, I'd like the grip to have an adjustable palm shelf which cancels some grip makers out.
Depending on the weather, hands change in size from fluid and swelling etc.
The adjustable palm shelf keeps things in check, especially as rapid fire is extremely tight fitting grip orientated, well at least in my opinion.
Thanks to all
RapidShoota