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Head-space on 2013

Posted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 10:43 pm
by Brian Carstensen
So I have been doing a lot of research on new barrels for my 2013, and I have come across head space as a point of interest.I have been looking around but nothing much has come up. So my question is how should I go about checking it? What kind of tool will I need (Is a go gauge exact enough)? What should the head space be? And I have seen that other people have experienced their head space changing is this common? If so how often should I check head space?

Also since I am getting a new barrel I have decided on a lilja or benchmark. If you have any experience with either good or bad please let me know about it.

Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 3:51 am
by Guest_66
Hi Brian
I'm a newbie in the headspace area, but wanted to learn how to change barrels myself on one of my my 2013, having a new Shilen 4 groove coming in.

I bought the Manson GO/NO GO gauge set from Brownells. The GO gauge measures 0.43" and the NO GO 0.51".

(Bill Calfee wrote that "....042" headspace will work just fine as will anything up to .045", even .046...")

Then, I pulled my factory barrel, just to learn how to assemble it.

When using the GO/NO GO gauge and adjusting the headspace, you should remove the firing pin and the extractors to get a correct HS.

Also, when assembling the barrel into the 2013 reciever, make sure it gets in the exact position for the extractors before you tighten the barrels bolts. The barrel has a small (about 1 mm or so) adjustment for this sideways. Try to set it in the middle.

For me, that 0.43" HS has work just fine for all my ammo (Eley, RWS and Lapua).

You will also find some more details in this forum:
http://www.rimfireaccuracy.com/Forums/s ... -to-adjust

Hope this helps for a start.

Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 2:15 pm
by Guest
IIRC the standard factory headspace is 0.44, I personally prefer 0.42, but if you intend to shoot Eley only their rim is thinner, you could go to 0.41

0.41 is a little tight with Lapua though.

Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:40 pm
by Soupy44
I'll throw a monkey wrench in here. I'm shooting great with a head space measured by 10 Ring this past summer at Perry to be .048". Had a 20X at 100 a few months ago along with a few 20X's at 50 since. Though I think the recommendations from earlier in the thread are where you should aim.

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 5:47 pm
by SRichieR
I've never really researched it, but, unlike the standard 54 action, I've heard that headspace on the square action 2013 can be adjusted. Is this correct? If so, then perhaps bench testing for the best headspace for a specific ammo lot would be appropriate.

Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:11 pm
by westerngriz
SRichieR wrote:I've never really researched it, but, unlike the standard 54 action, I've heard that headspace on the square action 2013 can be adjusted. Is this correct? If so, then perhaps bench testing for the best headspace for a specific ammo lot would be appropriate.
You are correct in that assumption. Headspace is adjustable on the 54s action. And yes some people do this. some will use a hedspace of .041-.042" instead of the "standard" .043". The coolest thing about this action in my opinion is the ability to have multiple barrels and the ability to index barrels.

For example if you have 5 different barrels you no longer NEED to match the ammo to the barrel. you do the reverse. you match the barrel to the ammo.

indexing is turning the barrel in the action and shooting groups until you find the clock position that shoots the smallest groups. The idea is that no bore is perfectly straight from chamber to muzzle (bore curve). Generaly when the barrel is turned in the action the POI will change in a circular pattern (because the barrel isnt pointed at the same point as you turn it.)
Typicaly the best groups are found in the lowest point of impact.
matt

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:44 am
by Guest
Hiya
Do you have to change the bolt handle to adjust the headspace?
MARK

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 10:49 am
by westerngriz
No you do not need to change the bolt handle. The 54s action has a clamp that clamps the barrel into the action. So all you do is loosen the bolts and you can move the barrel in and out.
You put the desired headspace gauge in the chamber and tap the muzzle until the gauge seats against the bolt face. then tighten down the bolts
this is why it is so easy to replace a barrel on a 54s (2007-2013)
matt

Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:20 pm
by Guest_66
Matt:
About indexing. Agree, that part is very interesting, yet slight controversial among BR people... Have you tried it yourself? Would you say it's worth the money having a cone breech made by a gunsmith? Just curious to find out, since I'm always looking for improvement on my 2013... ;)

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:00 am
by westerngriz
im not sure yet. i dont think indexing will make a crappy gun into a winner. but i dont think it would hurt...
If i was to order a new barrel for my 2013 i would probably have the smith put a cone breach on it. But i might index it myself.
I have never tried it for myself. But if you have the equipment (someway to hold the action still and be able to rotate it) i cant see a reason not too. Every little bit helps right?
Matt

Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 4:15 pm
by Guest
westerngriz wrote:No you do not need to change the bolt handle. The 54s action has a clamp that clamps the barrel into the action. So all you do is loosen the bolts and you can move the barrel in and out.
You put the desired headspace gauge in the chamber and tap the muzzle until the gauge seats against the bolt face. then tighten down the bolts
this is why it is so easy to replace a barrel on a 54s (2007-2013)
matt
Hiya
Thats the 20 series action.The 54 series has pins that locate in slots.
MARK

Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 4:36 pm
by westerngriz
Correct.
The 54 is the round action and has two pins that hold the barrel in.
The 54s action (stands for 54 square) has a system that involves screws that clamp the action to the barrel. It is kinda the same as a bloop tube. a groove is cut in one side that allows screws to be placed in a way that allows clamping.
matt