TargetTalk

what the best material is to form or customize a wooden grip? Thanks.

I use Tuf Carve with the hardener it dries in about 5 minutes and cheaper then the stuff you would buy from Morini. Bondo is also used. QuikSteel, which can be bought at Walmart or body shop. The only thing I don't like about QuikSteel is that when you form it with sandpaper, file, or dremel tool tips the material being sanded fills in all the pours of the sanding material and is difficult to remove from the file and pretty much makes material like sandpaper useless after a point in time.

For build up, cernit, a kids moulding wax, that hardens when heated.

for removing, dremel.


Cheers

Peter

There is a 2 part epoxy putty here called 'Milliput'. Used in conjunction with 'cling film' it is very good and hardens in an hour or so (depending on temperature). It can then be Dremeled etc etc. The nearest colour to a grip is Terracotta. Use the cling film to isolate it from hand when forming shape and peel off when hardened.

Hi, you can use car body filler and hardener, works very well and is easy
to sand, file etc.

AplusB puttyhttp://www.aplusbputty.com/ 2 part putty that mixed together are like a clay that will bond to almost anything..i put it right over the paint on my grips..better than anything else out there there's no sanding needed one you but it on there put your and on the grip and figure out what areas you want different and form it that way...its what the Natl team usesyou can thank dave johnson for the tip he's the one that told me about it.

Which one has the lowest denisty to save weight?
Thanks!

Bri wrote:AplusB puttyhttp://www.aplusbputty.com/ 2 part putty that mixed together are like a clay that will bond to almost anything..i put it right over the paint on my grips..better than anything else out there there's no sanding needed one you but it on there put your and on the grip and figure out what areas you want different and form it that way...its what the Natl team usesyou can thank dave johnson for the tip he's the one that told me about it.

Actually Erich Buljung, former pistol team coach, thought A+B was terrible stuff, and I agree. You need to consider how the material works after you apply it and it sets, because chances are your first application will not be perfect. A+B and many other choices set up very hard and brittle, and are a real pain to work with.

HTH,
FredB

I agree with FredB on the A+B. I used it on my prone rifle stocks and found it to be very heavy. As Fred said, it is brittle and I removed a big chunk once by whacking it with a hammer. I would never use it on a pistol grip because of the mass.

Quikwood is what I have found to work best for me. You can sand it and file it like wood I have never needed to. It is a 2 part epoxy that comes in a tube. You cut off what you need and mix it up. It is like putting some clay on your grip. It can be found in the paint dept at Home Depot or most any work working supply store.

What I have found for me is since using it I have not had to sand or pull out any other tools to work on my grip. I put on just what I need a build up areas slowly. Just get your hand or fingers a little wet when putting it on your grip so the stuff does not stick to your hand/fingers. I also press around the edges to make it blend in better. On my air pistol grip I took some clear 2 part epoxy and spread it on and then put some sand on it. After it dried then I painted it and the grip looks great.

Anybody who can post a pic of their work?

I go with Chris on this one.

I personally use "Aqua Mend" from Home Depot because it's cheaper. It's easily filed and sandpapered to shape.

It's grey in color and I don't care WHAT my grips look like.

here is what I have done:

http://picasaweb.google.com/toz35m/TozAndLP10#

Following Peter Skov's idea another plastic clay, that needs heat to cure and is on the light side, http://www.polymerclayweb.com/sculpeyultralight.asp, I have used an hair dryer and a plastic bag or cereal box for curing.