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Dry firing a GSP

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:35 pm
by dam8
What is the best way to dry fire the gsp, aside from the elusive training trigger?

Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:39 pm
by Richard H
Snap Cap or empty brass.

Dry fire GSP

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:52 pm
by Retired
You can get tabbed chamber plus that will allow you to dry fire directly from Walther. If you do, obtain several as they will eventually wear out.
Good luck,
Retired

Dry Firing GSP

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:53 pm
by Retired
I meant to say tabbed chamber plugs.

Retired

Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:20 pm
by BobGee
I know it’s a while since the last post but I am still curious about dry firing the .22LR GSP. I bought mine (’86 model used) complete with handbook and 1000gm dry-fire trigger unit. The handbook suggests that the dry-fire trigger unit should be used for practice. My problem is that the dry-fire trigger unit and actual trigger unit have totally different feels. The dry-fire unit has a certain amount of roll on it before it breaks, each of the 5 clicks feels slightly different and it is a heavier pull than the actual unit, which is also very crisp.

I stand/wish to be corrected, but I believe that the dry-fire unit is really for meant practicing timed and rapid fire strings in Standard and Sport Pistol when one wouldn’t lower the pistol to the “Ready” position between shots. I believe that you can use the actual trigger unit to dry fire (as in Slow Fire strings) without a snap-cap in the chamber because, when fired, the firing pin does not touch the breech face. I’ve stripped my pistol and, although the pistol has been dry-fired (accidentally or otherwise) the breech face is un-marked except for where the top section of the stepped firing pin impinges on it (which it would do, snap cap or no snap cap) and then only by being slightly more polished (see Pic 1); the part of the firing pin which would strike the rim of the cartridge is ever so slightly set back from the plane of the end of the bolt (and top section of the pin although it obviously protrudes into the recess in the bolt face where the cartridge rim sits so it can impact the rim)(see Pic 2). I hope I, with the pictures, am making myself clear.

In other posts on the subject, members (MSC, David Levene, mstuhr, et al - Tue Jun 30, 2009 et seq) have mentioned plastic/rubber plugs of varying lengths which hold the beech open by the corresponding amount. They would absolutely prevent the pin hitting the breech face I guess and would also cushion it. Others (sobakavitch et al) have said that dry firing without such a plug can break the pin; I don’t understand how if the top part of the pin is designed to strike the breech face anyway? bubba_zenetti (Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:22 pm) seems happy to continue with a dry fire after each string of 5 shots.

I would be glad of any advice as to whether I am right (i.e. one can dry-fire a GSP without snap caps without endangering the firing pin or breech face) or I am wrong?

Bob

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:50 am
by Spencer
Richard H wrote:Snap Cap or empty brass.
Arrrggghhh!
As a safety matter, NEVER empty brass - if you don't know why, nothing I can add will convince you.

Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:17 am
by ISSFFP
The practice trigger is designed for rapid fire use in the old OSP.

Dry firing a .22 without worrying a damage to the firing pin is to use a sanp cap. If you check Walther's website, they have a rubber snap cap for this purpose.

Dryfiring GSP

Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:21 am
by gn303
The best method is, as has been suggested, a plug that keeps the bolt open, just enough for the hammer to be released. The hammer will travel just a short distance and hit the bolt underneath. I've been doing that for years with GSP, Hammerli 280 and Tesro. No damage to the guns and the real trigger feel. E.g. for the Hammerli .32, I sized down a .38 shell so that it fits the chamber and holds the bolt back
The only drawback that could be suggested is the lack of the impact of the hammer/striker on the cartridge. That impact could cause a vibration, if your grip on the gun is way too light.
Good shooting,
Guy

Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:21 pm
by BobGee
The practice trigger is designed for rapid fire use in the old OSP.
Actually, both the OSP and GSP have/had dry fire triggers: 100-200g for the OSP and 1000g or 1360g for the GSP. Mine is a dry fire 1000g trigger.

Although I maintain that the GSP should be OK to dry fire with the actual trigger unit and without a snap cap, I guess that the rubber plug, which holds the bolt open slightly, will obviate any risk.

Thanks for comments.

Bob

Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:55 pm
by Spencer
BobGee wrote:...Actually, both the OSP and GSP have/had dry fire triggers: 100-200g for the OSP and 1000g or 1360g for the GSP. Mine is a dry fire 1000g trigger.
No trouble taking my old GSP RF training trigger up to 1360+g for (the old) CF training. It was only a matter of adjusting the tension spring screw - I really must back it of to 1000+g

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:26 am
by BobGee
Another delayed response!

gn303 is absolutely right. His method gives the correct trigger feel:
The best method is, as has been suggested, a plug that keeps the bolt open, just enough for the hammer to be released. The hammer will travel just a short distance and hit the bolt underneath.
I've cut a short (15mm) length of rubber garden hose with a cut-out underneath to clear the breach ramp and it works just fine.

Thanks for that gn303.

Bob

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 2:44 pm
by gn303
You're welcome BobGee
Enjoy your training and much shooting fun for 2012!
Guy