TargetTalk

Folks, do I need or should I buy a torque wrench? New price is $85, I wonnder what they are used? I dropped my 1907 barrel into the new stock last night -- but didn't want to over tighten the screws... I'm leaning to purchase... but what do the rest of you you do? As always - thanks!

champion shooters has one for $50. you may want to buy that one instead.

You will never regret this purchase as my experience is that every rifle has a point at whitch it shoots the smallest groups. Just the confidence you will have in how your rifle shoots will put points on your score card. Do your part and you will be winning matches. Good Shooting Bill Horton

Go for the 50$ one...
I have had one for 25 years and use it every time I disassemble the stock.
It prevents loose screws or more importantly overtightening damage.

Agree, you will never regret it.

Looks like I'll add this to my list... now -- how to negotiate effectively with my wife... rifle was ok, the add-ons are going to cost me "points". :)

Well,just like my occasion,the wife doesn't have to know!!!

a couple of years after purchase, 'Herself' saw the item in the rifle case and said "what's that"...

Here's an alternative. I bought a Park Tool torque wrench that was designed for bicycle repairs. It works great. Bought one new on Ebay for $35. Here's the company's link: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=TW%2D1

I also have a Gehman torque wrench - the last time I used that, I had to go to a gunsmith to get the screw out since I'd managed to put it in at 10 newtons, even though the wrench said 4. The Park wrench works like a "normal" bendy-like torque wrench, and it's been dead-on every time.

Buy it and give it to yur wife as a surprise gift. If she doesn't use it, it's yours. :)

Oh, by the way. The Park Tool torque wrench looks just fine for the purpose. But the other ones are easier to carry (if you need to disassemble the rifle at a competition or so). I carry mine (Anschutz/AHG torque wrench) in a very small toolbox together with the most important stuff (the wrench, a multi tool, some extra screws and springs etc).

YEA!SO SO!!

tsokasn wrote:Well,just like my occasion,the wife doesn't have to know!!!

Electric Welding MachineHose FittingsSqualeneSkin CarePoint of Sale

I don’t have a torque wrench for my 1907 Anschutz so I suppose that I should get one. What is the best value for adjustable torque wrenches these days?

I checked the link within this thread and it seems the adjustable wrenches are about $65 now. Anyone find a better deal out there?

Thanks,
-Trevor

I've been looking at this beam-style:
https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-2-10NM-Bic ... 61&sr=8-13

For $25, it seems like a deal, and you don't have to worry about clutches or other mechanisms going out of calibration.

marky-d

marky-d wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:21 pm I've been looking at this beam-style:
https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-2-10NM-Bic ... 61&sr=8-13

For $25, it seems like a deal, and you don't have to worry about clutches or other mechanisms going out of calibration.

marky-d

These types have their own set of issues as well. They are temperature dependent, get easily tweaked, and are not very accurate. Do not buy this one, but instead buy the best tool for the job.

One Guy's Opinion,

Joel

I'm curious why you say that.
When you say "temperature dependent" are you suggesting the modulus of the beam is going to change significantly within normal temperature ranges? I find that a little hard to believe. The data I looked at indicated the change from 0 to 100°F was about 2-2.5%, or about 0.25Nm @ 10Nm torque.

Also, many people regard beam-style torque wrenches the MOST accurate type because there is nothing to wear or change. Click-style wrenches are notorious for being inaccurate, or going out of calibration, and some designs can actually change the applied torque BECAUSE of the 'click' (either tightening or loosening the fastener, depending on the mechanism).

The main thing I don't like about the beam style is that it is a bit harder to use because of the right-angle nature, rather than a screwdriver-style.

marky-d

I'm not trying to argue here, it's just my opinion. Yes, temperature will affect that type of tool more than the click type. Any yes, they can go out of calibration, but you can get them calibrated or realize that the amount of drift might be minuscule. Also, technique, as you've mentioned, might account for more inaccuracies than the actual tool. The "click" is more precise than depending on your angle (parallax) and vision. Notice that Snapon doesn't even make that type of torque wrench nor do the rifle/pistol companies either. While the Anschutz and others tool might be overpriced, they will perform the job the best. That type of tool has better repeatability and is likely the tool that the gun makers are using when assembling and repairing the gun.

Cheers,

Joel

I'm not trying to argue either, just trying to understand what generated your opinion because most of my experience and research differs. Statements such as "They are temperature dependent, get easily tweaked, and are not very accurate. Do not buy this one, but instead buy the best tool for the job.", it implies you have some relevant experience or data to support that conclusion, so I was hoping you could elaborate.

For some time, I was involved with a project specifically to source torque screwdrivers for production and field service environments. We were able to ACCURATELY measure the accuracy of various tools, as well as consistency over time. What we found was that most tools were not very accurate, some were at least repeatable, and nearly all needed regular recalibration against a standard because they changed so much (drift was not "minuscule"). There are very few people outside a production environment that even have the ability to verify and recalibrate a torque wrench.

The click-style screwdrivers also tended to be technique-dependent (e.g. torque speed, some sensitive to axial force, etc.).

What we found was that even expensive, well-regarded brands, had the same problems. For reference, based on our tests and for our application, the Wera brand screwdrivers were what we went with. They run about $70.

You suggest that a "click is more precise", but that is false. It's the same false perception that digital gauges are somehow more "precise" than analog gauges. People think that if the gauge it telling them an exact number, then it must be 'truth'. After all, my tire pressure gauge says 34.2psi, not 34.3psi, so it MUST be accurate. Nope, it will just report an exactly wrong value.

Yes, an analog tool, like a beam torque wrench, will be slightly more susceptible to reader error -- you have to know how to read a gauge -- but I'd rather have a tool that I know will always produce the same torque, and leave it to me to read it correctly, than have a tool that will change significantly over time and still tell me everything is just fine. The main issue I've seen with beam-style torque wrenches is a bent indicator arm -- easily fixed or compensated for.

marky-d

Beam type. 1/4 inch drive. something that only goes up to 50 or 60 INCHES. if you get one that goes higher than 60, it is very difficult to read, esp trying to see 35 vs 40. you can buy one at a local car parts shop or look on line. $30 to $40 ought to do it if you're price shopping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Wrench- ... Sw73Naur6A

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Wrench- ... SwgPBb0e1e

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Wheeler Engineering FAT wrench yet...

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizi ... B0012AXR4S