TargetTalk

I would be curious as to opinions regarding Matchguns MG2 electronic trigger in comparison to the mechanical version from anyone that has , or still does own both. Especially whether you would buy the electronic over the manual. Price is not relevant, but feel and appeal opinions are what I am hoping for. Thanks.

I haven't had a chance to try an electronic model yet and am also curious in this regard. I'm particularly curious with respect to the following points:

1) how do the electronics alter the balance of the pistol? My guess is the pistol becomes more nose-heavy with addition of electronics, but that's just a guess

2) how does the trigger perform with respect to shot-to-shot follow up? The mechanical trigger requires the shooter to allow the trigger to return only to the beginning of the second stage travel before reapplying rearward pressure to release the next shot. Other pistols (most notably Walther pistols) require the trigger to move fully forward to the beginning of the 1st stage before the shooter can commence applying pressure for the next shot. How does the MG-2E trigger behave in this respect?

As always, thanks for sharing your experiences.

Mark Briggs wrote:I haven't had a chance to try an electronic model yet and am also curious in this regard. I'm particularly curious with respect to the following points:

1) how do the electronics alter the balance of the pistol? My guess is the pistol becomes more nose-heavy with addition of electronics, but that's just a guess

<snip>.

Not sure how you derive that assumption, the electronics are generally fairly lightweight and situated in the grip - which is balance neutral.

Rob.

Mark Briggs wrote: 1) how do the electronics alter the balance of the pistol? My guess is the pistol becomes more nose-heavy with addition of electronics, but that's just a guess.

I just have experience from the MG1 and the MG1E. For some period I owned both versions: the electronic unit added some 80 grams to the total weight of the gun, making for a marked change of center of gravity to the front, hence the gun got a more pronounced nose heavy feel than its non-electronic conterpart.

Mark Briggs wrote: Other pistols (most notably Walther pistols) require the trigger to move fully forward to the beginning of the 1st stage before the shooter can commence applying pressure for the next shot. How does the MG-2E trigger behave in this respect?

Not only the Walther guns, the Pardinis too, I recon.

I own the mechanical version and have tried the electronical version.

In regards to balance I have not tried the E version enough to say anything about this, but it will for sure have an effect since the electronics are not in the grip but in front of the trigger. The MG2 have a lot of options to adjust the balance, so I don't think it will be a big deal.

I love my mechanicall MG2, but I have to admit that if you like a clean snap trigger like the Pardini, the E version will be the better choice.. The M trigger is nice, but it has a little creep that is impossible to get rid of without making it into a machine gun:-) If I was to buy a new MG2 again, it would be the E version.

I would wait as long as possible to see how reliable they are. Most firearms manufacturers do not have much expertise in electronics. The list of pistols that have had serious problems with electronics triggers is almost as long as the list of pistols that have electronic triggers.

I think the technology is becoming a bit more mainstream, but even if the design is solid, manufacturing reliable electronics is different from machining metal.

That said, I have two Morinis (one AP one FP) with electronic triggers that are great. However, they aren't designed for sustained fire, with issues of cycle time, doubling, etc.

I tried an electronic and I ended up buying a mechanical. I think the mechanical trigger is superb and mine has no creep whatsoever once I got it adjusted correctly. I prefer to shoot mine as a single stage which is exactly what it feels like. The MG2E I felt was more nose heavy. My understanding is that there is a conversion kit to convert teh MG2 to a MG2E or vice versa, so if you did change your mind you could simply buy the conversion kit.

Thanks everyone, its a bit difficult to get a "hands on" feel,with the distributor 800 km. away, and dealers not holding stock in this economic envoirnment. However, the MG2E is obnly 35 gms. heavier than the M version, and as TB said, the extra weight is located at the trigger guard or balance point anyway.
I knew there was a conversion kit for the MG5 free pistol nvalick, but havent heard anything re: the MG2.
I do know that if one prefers a rolling trigger, then the M version is the go, but I prefer a crisp release, and am still intrigued by the electronic setup.

I've dry-fired an E trigger, and to tell you the truth, I just can't see where it was any better than my M trigger.
I have mine set up with minimal first stage, just enough to let me know where I am, but then it was set-up for rapid-fire.
In my opinion, the triggers on my MG2 and M10 (which are basically the same), are about the best feeling triggers that I have shot. They suit me just fine.

I was a little surprised by the fact that a kit was made, but when I was in ISS picking my MG2 up that was one possibility that was explored. Now getting one may be another issue. They do have the RF conversion kit and the MG5E kit so it would not surprise me too much. The guns seem to be pretty modular in design which is really a great feature. I am really surprised they do not advertise this ability for their conversion kits. It really shows the flexibility of the pistol and I would think that could only help in overall sales and increase part sales (i.e. conversion kits). I have to agree with R.M., I cannot see any advantage of the electronic trigger over the mechanical. I see quite a few more advantages with the mechanical over the electric however. I really like the mechanical trigger in the way it feels and this is why I bought a MG5 and GP-1 as well.

For MG-2 Owner:
Mark Briggs wrote:

Other pistols (most notably Walther pistols) require the trigger to move fully forward to the beginning of the 1st stage before the shooter can commence applying pressure for the next shot. How does the MG-2E trigger behave in this respect?


"Not only the Walther guns, the Pardinis too, I recon."

I can't speak with any authority on the topic of Pardini mechanical triggers, but having owned an SPE and currently owning an HPE, both of which feature electronic triggers, I can say with certainty that there is only a small amount of mechanical hysteresis in the electronic trigger microswitch. The net result of this design is to produce a trigger which only needs to move forward a small amount in order to be made ready to fire a subsequent shot. In the case of my SPE & HPE I adjusted them so the mechanical hysteresis in the switch was roughly coincident with the beginning of the second stage travel.

For those who indicate that their MG-2 mechanical trigger cannot be adjusted to provide a crisp letoff, I would suggest you likely have not yet achieved proper trigger adjustment. I have adjusted several MG-2 triggers now, including those of my own pair of MG-2's, and achieving a crisp break is quite possible with correct adjustment.

Mark Briggs wrote:For MG-2 Owner:
Mark Briggs wrote:

Other pistols (most notably Walther pistols) require the trigger to move fully forward to the beginning of the 1st stage before the shooter can commence applying pressure for the next shot. How does the MG-2E trigger behave in this respect?


"Not only the Walther guns, the Pardinis too, I recon."

I can't speak with any authority on the topic of Pardini mechanical triggers, ....

Because the Walther pistols (GSP, GSP Expert) feature mechanical triggers, I was of course evaluating the Pardini mechanical triggers.

Mark, I hope you agree with mee that the Walther GSP GSP/Expert pistols never featured electronic triggers?
I think you do.

Regards,
"The Owner"

I have a Pardini (mechanichal trigger) and the trigger must travel fully fwd to allow the next shot to occur. From what I think you are saying, the MG-2 Electronic tigger allows the the tigger to reset with very little fwd movement. What I dont understand ( and this is where you can enlighten me) is this - do you pull the full 1000gms against the trigger on subsequent shots?

Mark Briggs wrote: For those who indicate that their MG-2 mechanical trigger cannot be adjusted to provide a crisp letoff, I would suggest you likely have not yet achieved proper trigger adjustment. I have adjusted several MG-2 triggers now, including those of my own pair of MG-2's, and achieving a crisp break is quite possible with correct adjustment.

Mine is close to crisp, but there is a little roll. If I adjust the sear engagement to a total crisp letoff, it will do doubble shoots. Please explain how you adjusted yours to a total crisp letoff, without the risk of doubble shoots!

Hello TB....At one stage my MG2 RF displayed the same slight creep before letoff. Close inspection showed a buildup of crud [ for want of a better term ] on the front rdge of the sear face of the secondary release lever. A scalpel and several well directed strokes removed the rubbish, and after re assembly was as crisp as breaking glass ....and still is.

What I dont understand ( and this is where you can enlighten me) is this - do you pull the full 1000gms against the trigger on subsequent shots?

In a word top end...yes...as the spring tension of combined first and second stage, if set correctly, will amount to 1000 gms. Releasing the trigger slightly to reset the micro switch means you are still holding most of that weight, and with further movement you are back to 1000 gms. by the time the switch has been activated again to fire the next shot.

TB wrote:I love my mechanicall MG2, but I have to admit that if you like a clean snap trigger like the Pardini, the E version will be the better choice.. The M trigger is nice, but it has a little creep that is impossible to get rid of without making it into a machine gun:-) If I was to buy a new MG2 again, it would be the E version.

Well, after fideling a bit more with the trigger adjustments on my MG2 M, I would like to withdraw my previous statement about the mecanical trigger not being able to do a clean snap. The sear engagement screw got a tad more and now the trigger snaps like breaking glass without doubble shots:-) At least not during the 70 rounds I did after the adjustment.

I have a MG2E, only had a month or so and put approx 500 rounds through it so far. I have a problem with the trigger.

When shooting the 10 sec series in Standard or 4 sec series in Rapid Fire the solenoid does not activate every time. I'm not sure if this is because my finger is not letting the trigger reset properly or the weight (I have been shooting a lot of air over winter) of the trigger is such that I think it should have gone and I'm not pulling far enough or an actual fault. As it seems to be in the section where I am trying to keep a fast rhythm on the trigger. There is a screw (hex head) at back under grip that seems to move solenoid - but no adjustment indicated in the manual.

I tried increasing the first stage pressure but that has not helped much.

Anybody experienced similar?

Just a suggestion, based on something I have seen on a Pardini electronic, do you get the same thing happen with a new set of batteries.

On the Pardini (old electronics board) the battery life was short and as they got older they took longer to re-charge the electronics.

It might be nothing to do with your problem but it's a quick, easy and cheap test to try.