TargetTalk

were there still new ones available around 1990 ?

I'm able to buy one in perfect condition for € 500,-
Is that reasonable. Any weak parts that I should check?

Are there compensatos available for this pistol or doesn't it need one?

I'm hesitating between this MU55-1 at €500 or a Matchgungs MG5E at €1.350

I've got a Hammerli 150 now, but I don't like the trigger consistency.

Hello Ken,

I don't think that there is a commercially available compensator, but I often wonder why one is needed on a free pistol, unless you get one that you can tune to reduce group size.

As for parts, this is the dilemma. If you thought Toz-35 parts were scarce, MU-55 spares are on the order of a magnitude more scarce. The part that seems most likely to fail is the hammer. Unlike the Toz and later Hammerli 150/160 series that use a cocked striker, MU-55s use a hammer to strike a firing pin. The hammers occasionally fail because they fracture at a common weak point. To make matters more interesting, there are at least 3 different hammer styles, so not only do you need to find a hammer if it breaks, you need the correct hammer. New MU-55s came with a spare hammer, 2 firing pins, spare mainspring, and spare sight elements.

I like the MU-55 for several reasons, but honestly, not one of those reasons has to do with shootability. I bought mine "as new" in 2000, but I imagine it was made in the 1980s.

Like you, I stopped shooting my Hammerli 150 and now shoot, of all things, a Toz. I have purchased and tried a Morini, but have to admit I am not enamoured with it.

good luck,

toznerd

toznerd,

Please contact me regarding the MU55 hammer situation. I am having a major problem with mine.

TIA,
FredB email: frbauer(AT)msn.com

toznerd wrote:Hello Ken,

I don't think that there is a commercially available compensator, but I often wonder why one is needed on a free pistol, unless you get one that you can tune to reduce group size.

As for parts, this is the dilemma. If you thought Toz-35 parts were scarce, MU-55 spares are on the order of a magnitude more scarce. The part that seems most likely to fail is the hammer. Unlike the Toz and later Hammerli 150/160 series that use a cocked striker, MU-55s use a hammer to strike a firing pin. The hammers occasionally fail because they fracture at a common weak point. To make matters more interesting, there are at least 3 different hammer styles, so not only do you need to find a hammer if it breaks, you need the correct hammer. New MU-55s came with a spare hammer, 2 firing pins, spare mainspring, and spare sight elements.

I like the MU-55 for several reasons, but honestly, not one of those reasons has to do with shootability. I bought mine "as new" in 2000, but I imagine it was made in the 1980s.

Like you, I stopped shooting my Hammerli 150 and now shoot, of all things, a Toz. I have purchased and tried a Morini, but have to admit I am not enamoured with it.

good luck,

toznerd

Hi,

I have never seen one but I came across this thread that might help you decide: http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?p=60174.

If in case you are concerned with the opinions re the hammer, it might be wise to disassemble the gun of its hammer and have 2 or 3 made and keep as spare. That will probably be enough to last you a lifetime. At 500 Euros, that would also afford you a compensator too if you so desire. The recoil will be lessened with it but the trade off would be that you would have to keep the comp clean. If you would find the front end light, then that would be a good thing to put on instead of a mere barrel weight.

Regards

Ron

One factor for me, having owned a Hammerli 150, Mu55 Toz and Morini 84e is the rake angle. Personally the Mu55 and 150 have an extreme rake angle that should be considered.

Today, I own a couple of Tozes and a Morini. I shoot the Morini and Tos Side cocker the most.

I have held a MG5, and shot a Hammerli FP10. I think they both have adjustable grips.

Brian

another question

If I move the trigger more backwards, the bottom of the trigger touches the trigger guard.
Is this normal? Any ideas?

shorten the bottom of the trigger or make a new trigger guard