TargetTalk

I use a center hold in Air pistol, service pistol, revolver and rifle.
I want to do the same with the TOZ 35M

I shot it at 25yds today for the first time, I had the sight all the way down and it was still shooting about 3" high of the bull.

What can I do to bring it down? I don't have any longer front posts they are all the same hight. I don't know if I can do something with the rear sight.

Any suggestion or help would be much appreciated, I have the first match in two weeks and trying to get ready for it.

I fit a small piece of Teflon in the slot on the rear sight so the adjustment knob is pushing the sight down further. Probably not the best way, but it works. I glued it in with epoxy.

I fit a small piece of Teflon in the slot on the rear sight so the adjustment knob is pushing the sight down further. Probably not the best way, but it works. I glued it in with epoxy.

Could you please explain further, which slot are you referring to?

regards,

Mine has an indentation or slot on the top of the rear sight near the adjustment knob. Wherever the contact spot on your rear sight is....thats where its got to go. You can (pre) shim it at the range to make sure how much you have to add for center hold......Changing the front sight is probably the best way if someone makes a taller one. The glue I use is from the Smooth-on company. I glued a piece of round stock on a K-38 for a barrel weight and it never came loose while firing!

Thanks, either that or I will ground donw the area where the screw goes in so it can go further and push the site down further.

Faisal: The TOZ comes with a lot of spare front sight blades. I would take one and hace a .020 thick piece if feeler gage silver soldered on it and cut it to shape.

Faisal,

There are 3 ways in which the TOZ rear sight downward travel may be limited:
1. total travel of the (reverse threaded) elevation screw,
2. total travel of the pivoting rear blade carrier,
3. either of the above being limited by the grip.

If you remove the grip to eliminate #3, and screw down (counterclockwise) the elevation screw as far as it will go, you can then with your finger press down on the rear blade carrier to see how much additional travel is available. Then you would make a shim of that thickness and glue it on top of the rear blade carrier, as was indicated in an above post. Don Nygord recommended using a piece of Eley box top (plastic), and that worked very well for me. Be sure to use the top from a box of the highest grade of Eley, to assure best accuracy in your shooting ;-)

HTH,
FredB

What I have done is I found a black plastic piece and cut in L shape its thick enough and I glued it on top of the rear sight so the screw will be pushing on it at two places. But I think its a little soft so I wouldn't the screw rubbing on it. But once I am there I will need little adjustment so I would push on the rear sight down by hand then move the screw so it does not scrap the plastic piece unnecessarily. If that doesn't work then I have a aluminum piece as well which I can cut.

I didn't want to hard solder the front post and then shape it since I didn't want to buy torch, too much gun powder around the work area. I could soft solder and that would work too or I could just use JB weld type epoxy and shape. But I think the above mod will be enough.

Again thanks to all for the suggestion.