38/357

[thruxtoncamshaft]

Hi, 1st time. I have S&W686, can I use a 357mag case with a soft 38 load using a 148 grain hbwc and 3 grains ADI ap50 powder(aussie powder). Will I have to seat the prodgie 3mm or so inside the case? 2- What would be the likley outcome if I load a magnum load in a 38 case? Thanks.Thruxton.

[Spencer]

Hi, 1st time. I have S&W686, can I use a 357mag case with a soft 38 load using a 148 grain hbwc and 3 grains ADI ap50 powder(aussie powder)

ADI lists a starting load of 2.8 grains of AP30 in .38 Special with 148g projectile (http://www.adi-limited.com/handloaders-guide/pistol.asp) - this would be a good place to start.

Will I have to seat the prodgie 3mm or so inside the case?

Short answer - No
1/ Seating the projectile down into the case can have some 'interesting' outcomes depending on the thickness of the cases used, the length of the inside seating die, etc., etc.
2/ Most AUS shooters seating the projectile into the casing are using 98 to 100grain projectiles - NOT 148 grain
3/ the 2.8gr starting load would be for a flush seated 148g wadcutter

What would be the likley outcome if I load a magnum load in a 38 case? Thanks.Thruxton.

Voiding any insurance and warranty
.357 cases are not only longer than .38 cases, they are thicker/stronger in the important areas

Spencer

[thruxtoncamshaft]

Thanks for your reply, I have also just been warned about the possibility of someone with a 38 getting hold of magnum loaded 38 cases, not a good outcome so will avoid that totally.Thruxton.

[sparky]

While I don't know the properties of the powder you're using, I know some tend to do weird things when downloaded to too light a load. Some tend to detonate (IIRC, Bullseye) while some tend to incompletely burn and leave a bullet stuck in a barrel (IIRC, H110 in revolvers)
Double check what your chosen powder tends to do.

I would imagine loading .357 mag loads in a .38 special case and firing them in a 686 might result in case head separation, letting the head of the case drop out and leaving the rest of the case stuck in the cylinder . . . not fun.

[JamesH]

Or you can just use 38special loads in 38special cases in your 686, it should work fine although you'd need to clean it if you then want to shoot .357.
In fact if you want to shoot hot loads after soft lead bullets you'd better clean it anyway.
I didn't have a lot of luck with AP50, 231 and WST are generally preferred.

I've never heard good things about target loads in magnum cases, maybe the case wall is too thick, or tapered.

[Fred Mannis]

I've never heard good things about target loads in magnum cases, maybe the case wall is too thick, or tapered.

Back when I was shooting PPC, I got excellent results using 357 cases and 148 WC loaded to about 800 f/s. No problem holding the x ring at 50 yd.

[thruxtoncamshaft]

I get the occasional flyer into the x ring.Thruxton.

[Shooting Kiwi]

Fred,

Were you using a roll or taper crimp?

[Shooting Kiwi]

Fred,

Were you using a roll or taper crimp?

[Fred Mannis]

Fred,

Were you using a roll or taper crimp?

Had to go and find my notes, since we're talking over 20 years ago :-)

I used a Redding Profile Crimp die. I found the the greatest influence on group size was bullet diameter compared to cylinder mouth diameter. My cylinders would just pass a .357" jacketed bullet, so I sized my 148 gr BBWC bullets to 0.3565". The barrel groove diameter was 0.355". Can't remember what make barrel Powers was using in those days on his PPC Grand Master Deluxe revolvers.

[Shooting Kiwi]

Thanks Fred.

Apologies for double post above - finger / brain / computer trouble.

Anyone got any more advice on reloading .357 revolvers for target work? I'm about to start loading .38 cases with Lapua HBWC, but am undecided about whether to roll or taper crimp, and therefore whether I need to get a taper crimp die. Also, the seating mandrel, although allegedly suitable for wadcutters, isn't really the right shape, so, off to the lathe!

[kraigwy]

Thanks Fred.

Apologies for double post above - finger / brain / computer trouble.

Anyone got any more advice on reloading .357 revolvers for target work? I'm about to start loading .38 cases with Lapua HBWC, but am undecided about whether to roll or taper crimp, and therefore whether I need to get a taper crimp die. Also, the seating mandrel, although allegedly suitable for wadcutters, isn't really the right shape, so, off to the lathe!

In events requiring reloading with a revolver, I like SWC bullets. As far as crimps, I like the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp. It gives you a good roll crimp yet it re-sizes the case after crimping so there is no bulged cases and they fit will into the chamber. I've tried 38 match WCs in my Model 28 and 27. I seem to do better with the 357 cases in 357 Revolvers. You dont get the extra jump, but thats just me, your milage may very.