TargetTalk

Anybody know who's carrying Morini Grip Compound in the states? I don't want to get into using Bondo on my 162E, If I can find something more "user friendly".

Paul

Look under "specials" It's $22 for a 125ml tin with hardener.

Chicken-Farmer

Thanks, Chicken-Farmer. I should have looked further than I did when I ordered a 15V battery last week. Would've saved some postage, but the good thing, was that I was able to order a "long reach" trigger, which I didn't know was available. I've got mine as far forward as I can, and when I add some material to rotate the gun to the right, my finger protrudes past the pad, with the trigger resting on the joint. I was planning to add something to the stock trigger to remedy this. Glad to be able to find the cure.

Paul

I'm curious. I've been using Plastic Wood on my grips for many years. It doesn't require mixing a hardener, adheres well to the grip once the surface finish = varnish or whatever- is removed, can be filed or sanded once hard, and even stained or varnished if you don't like ugly looking grips. I have no aesthetic sense so I don't finish it. In fact I like to leave a slighty rough suface for better gripping. And it can be removed with a solvent if needed.
What is the advantage of the branded compound? Is there some functional difference or is it just brand loyalty?
Richard Newman

No brand loyalty, I was just looking for something that would match the walnut grips. I've been resisting using Bondo because of the garish colors, and the erratic speed of hardening(hard to measure the right amount of catalyst). In the past, I've used Rock Hard Water Putty, to fabricate complete grips on revolvers. Covered the grip frame with two thin plywood panels, and mixing a stiff batch, covered the grip with it and held the gun in my hand for the 1/2hr. or so it took to harden. I was rewarded with a grip that fit so well, every crease and fingerprint was imbedded in it. Unfortunately, as its name implied, it was difficult to shape after hardening, and if the mainspring was needed to get to, it had to be broken off with a hammer. I'm hoping the Morini compound will match my grips a bit better, be more pliable, and give me more time to work it, than Bondo will.

Paul

pgfaini wrote:I'm hoping the Morini compound will match my grips a bit better

Only if your grips are light grey I'm afraid.

I use epoxy putty, several brands available available from Lowes or Home Depot. It is easy to stain - I use the little packets that come Brownells bedding epoxy. Natural color is a light brown. Easy to work with and I have found it to be more durable than plastic wood. And much cheaper than the Morini stuff!
As always, YMMV

Fred

Paul,

I also use plastic wood with great results. Before I do that however, I use some Play Dough just to get the feel of what I am trying to accomplish.

Actually, the play dough will stick to your grips fairly well for a couple of weeks before it dries out and starts falling off. During that time, you can make minor or even major modifications very easily. I use this trial and error period to see how newly formed grip will work while shooting.

After I'm sure of what I want, I remove the play dough and use the plastic wood to form the grip as closely as possible to how I had the play dough set up.

Once that's done and I have made the final minor modifications to the grip, my buddy applies a fine coating of polyurethane to the dried plastic wood and then sprinkles silica carbide all over for the final finish.

Once it dries, the surface of the grip feels like fine sandpaper and resembles those non slip strips you put on stairs to provide traction. The provides a very secure feeling interface between your hand and grip.

If you send me your email address, I'll send you a photo of the finished product.


F. Paul in Denver

paul@figlialaw.com

David Levene wrote:

pgfaini wrote:I'm hoping the Morini compound will match my grips a bit better

Only if your grips are light grey I'm afraid.

OUCH!!! I should have gone with Brownell's Acraglas. I wonder if my Acraglas dye will work with the Morini grip compound?

Ill second the Quick Wood from Home Depot or Lowes. Its the easiest stuff to work with. It comes in a tube as a clay like consistancy and you knead it for a few minutes to mix the compound up, the catalyst is inside and of the same consistancy. It adheres very well and will start to harden in about 20 minutes and will cure overnight. You can form the grip and take you hand away as its like clay at that time. It cost about two bucks or so and one tube will usually do the job. If you need a add a bit later its no problem and will adhere to the old stuff very well. Easy to shape and stain.

nthe10ring

F. Paul, Sent you an E-mail.

Thanks, Paul

David Levene wrote:

pgfaini wrote:I'm hoping the Morini compound will match my grips a bit better

Only if your grips are light grey I'm afraid.

Hmmmmmm, I have never seen any grey Morini grip compound, or gray Morini grip compound for that matter. All that we get here in the states is walnutish brown color. maybe gray is more fashionable in Merry old England?

pilkguns wrote:Hmmmmmm, I have never seen any grey Morini grip compound, or gray Morini grip compound for that matter. All that we get here in the states is walnutish brown color. maybe gray is more fashionable in Merry old England?

Now that you mention it I have a feeling that my grips may have been modified with Hammerli compound, but I always thought that was just re-badged Morini compound (which is probably just re-badged ?????).

My apologies if I have misled anyone.

The 80 grit silicon carbide is excellent. We use masking tape over the external areas and modelling spray paint over the gripping surface – colour to suit (black looks good walnut).

This post is made from rip-off Britain!
In the UK, Morini (or Hammerli) paste is over £25, compared to $22 for a 125ml tin with hardener in US, never ceases to amaze me how with over five times the shipping distance, goods remain sensibly priced in the US. I feel a holiday coming on……

PaulT wrote:The 80 grit silicon carbide is excellent. We use masking tape over the external areas and modelling spray paint over the gripping surface – colour to suit (black looks good walnut).

This post is made from rip-off Britain!
In the UK, Morini (or Hammerli) paste is over £25, compared to $22 for a 125ml tin with hardener in US, never ceases to amaze me how with over five times the shipping distance, goods remain sensibly priced in the US. I feel a holiday coming on……

Bring me some back then Paul - I'm running low ;)

Rob.

Is the Morini paste epoxy or styrene based?

PaulT wrote:This post is made from rip-off Britain!
In the UK, Morini (or Hammerli) paste is over £25, compared to $22 for a 125ml tin with hardener in US, never ceases to amaze me how with over five times the shipping distance, goods remain sensibly priced in the US. I feel a holiday coming on……

I just bought a new tin and it cost me £29 ! the odd thing is the 750mml tine is only twice the price

You can buy direct from morini and and about 50% but the minimum order is 18tin for the small tin and 12 for the large !

J

Axel wrote:Is the Morini paste epoxy or styrene based?

Ok you non chemists... ;-) Does it smell real strong(styrene) or almost nothing? (epoxy)

Cheers,
Axel

Axel wrote:

Axel wrote:Is the Morini paste epoxy or styrene based?

Ok you non chemists... ;-) Does it smell real strong(styrene) or almost nothing? (epoxy)

Cheers,
Axel

By "styrene", do you mean polyester resin? Polyester resin is used like epoxy, but has a higher shrink level than epoxy, and so is used mostly on wood. If used on metal, such as when fiberglassing, it is usually used on top of a base coat of epoxy.

Paul

pgfaini wrote:

Axel wrote:

Axel wrote:Is the Morini paste epoxy or styrene based?

Ok you non chemists... ;-) Does it smell real strong(styrene) or almost nothing? (epoxy)

Cheers,
Axel

By "styrene", do you mean polyester resin? Polyester resin is used like epoxy, but has a higher shrink level than epoxy, and so is used mostly on wood. If used on metal, such as when fiberglassing, it is usually used on top of a base coat of epoxy.

Paul

Wow, we are somewhat off topic... :-)

Yes, Polyester resin together with styrene. Styrene is a reactive solvent/monomer and has a very strong and characteristic smell - if you have been inside of a fiberglass boat you would know what I'm talking about. Does Morini putty smell like that or not?

Cheers,
Axel