Can someone provode advice on setting up a high-end rifle like this? It's my first one. For example, should I adjust the front end or back-end stock first, where should the center of gravity be (under the trigger?), how should the various tilt adjustments be set, where should the sight be positioned, etc? I know, very beginner questions but so am I! Thanks for anybody's advice or refrral to other threads.
Jim
Setting up my new LG110
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Jim , I have just gone thru the same thing with mine . It's not too daunting .
First set up stock length ,and butt plate position , then get cheekpiece hieght .
Do you cant , if so how much ( the rear sight has cant adjusment ) ? If you are tall .with a long neck , and right handed- use the sight riser blocks in the left position ( there are three sets of screw holes ) .
You will find the weights pretty good right out of the box - move the concentric barrel weights as far forward as they will go . Initially use all three of the stock weights , and the underweight bar . The weights on the weight bar are excentric , turn them so most of the weight is towards your centerline of your stance.
To determine stock length , get an accomplice to look at your right forearm/wrist , it should be as close as possible to straight , if you are kicking the wrist a lot - the stock length is too short . onceyou have set cheekpiece height , you will probably want to move the cheekpiece to the right( their are several rows of screw holes , visable on the underside of the cheekpiece ) . The idea is that the cheekpiece is supposed to engage a consistent position under the cheekbone, and give you a "mould" .
Remember that the butt plate mostly rests on your upper arm . With you jacket on , and with this in mind rotate it for most solid engagement .
Next set the pistol grip angle to taste , ( there is a beveled washer that can be rotated to determine grip angle ) , I set mine for near maximum barrel to grip angle , YMMV . Turn the grip inwards , just a smidgen - this is to minimize wood contact with your trigger finger . Adjust the trigger blade on it's track for proper trigger position .
Mark positions on adjustment bars with a " sharpie" -this serves as a witness mark , and can be removed with lighter fluid .
Shoot it for a bit , and carefully record changes . I hope I have helped you , and not further confused you .
Chris
First set up stock length ,and butt plate position , then get cheekpiece hieght .
Do you cant , if so how much ( the rear sight has cant adjusment ) ? If you are tall .with a long neck , and right handed- use the sight riser blocks in the left position ( there are three sets of screw holes ) .
You will find the weights pretty good right out of the box - move the concentric barrel weights as far forward as they will go . Initially use all three of the stock weights , and the underweight bar . The weights on the weight bar are excentric , turn them so most of the weight is towards your centerline of your stance.
To determine stock length , get an accomplice to look at your right forearm/wrist , it should be as close as possible to straight , if you are kicking the wrist a lot - the stock length is too short . onceyou have set cheekpiece height , you will probably want to move the cheekpiece to the right( their are several rows of screw holes , visable on the underside of the cheekpiece ) . The idea is that the cheekpiece is supposed to engage a consistent position under the cheekbone, and give you a "mould" .
Remember that the butt plate mostly rests on your upper arm . With you jacket on , and with this in mind rotate it for most solid engagement .
Next set the pistol grip angle to taste , ( there is a beveled washer that can be rotated to determine grip angle ) , I set mine for near maximum barrel to grip angle , YMMV . Turn the grip inwards , just a smidgen - this is to minimize wood contact with your trigger finger . Adjust the trigger blade on it's track for proper trigger position .
Mark positions on adjustment bars with a " sharpie" -this serves as a witness mark , and can be removed with lighter fluid .
Shoot it for a bit , and carefully record changes . I hope I have helped you , and not further confused you .
Chris
Syeyr LG110 setting up
Hi CDF
Chris has given you some good advice on stock adjustment.
It took me nearly 6 months of 'tweaking' untill i got the dimensions that suited me. This is one reason why some of the worlds top shooters have gone back to wood!!! no kidding.
With all match air rifles it is advised to establish where the centre of gravity is. Ideally, it should be any where between 2 and 6 cm infront of where the support hand touches the fore end.
Don't make the rifle too muzzle heavy.
The overall weight of the rifle depends on your build and weight. If you are a heavy weight then the overall weight can approach the limit of 5.5kg. If you are a light weight and slim, try to keep the weight below 5kg. The balance and C of G are more important than how heavy you can make it.
Where ever you put the cheek piece ensure that it is on barrel axis i.e. in line with the barrel even if you have some off set it should still be in line. Use a long straight edge to check. You will be amazed at how out of line shooters get this.
Get hold of the MEC publication 'Air Rifle Shooting' it will give you every adjustement you need and tells you why!
peepsight
Chris has given you some good advice on stock adjustment.
It took me nearly 6 months of 'tweaking' untill i got the dimensions that suited me. This is one reason why some of the worlds top shooters have gone back to wood!!! no kidding.
With all match air rifles it is advised to establish where the centre of gravity is. Ideally, it should be any where between 2 and 6 cm infront of where the support hand touches the fore end.
Don't make the rifle too muzzle heavy.
The overall weight of the rifle depends on your build and weight. If you are a heavy weight then the overall weight can approach the limit of 5.5kg. If you are a light weight and slim, try to keep the weight below 5kg. The balance and C of G are more important than how heavy you can make it.
Where ever you put the cheek piece ensure that it is on barrel axis i.e. in line with the barrel even if you have some off set it should still be in line. Use a long straight edge to check. You will be amazed at how out of line shooters get this.
Get hold of the MEC publication 'Air Rifle Shooting' it will give you every adjustement you need and tells you why!
peepsight