TargetTalk

A friend of mine is having a problem with his few weeks old IZH46M: After cocking the AP, the trigger isn't releasing the shot. It seems as if the sear isn't engaged. He brought it to the range today and a couple of us, who don't own izzy's tried to help him out -- with no success.

There doesn't seem to be an instructions in the manual he got to adjust the trigger or sear engagement. There were three screws in the diagram that appeared to be relevant, labelled A, B, and C, I believe, but no written account of what they control in the legend. We tried making small adjustments of the three screws in sucession and in each direction to no avail. All the screws were returned to their original positions.

When not charged with air, the pistol sometimes dry fires successfully, but not on a regular basis.

Of course he can send the AP back to the seller, who happens to moderate a very informative web site, but if there's a simple fix that would be nice. I did a cursory search here, but didn't see anything directly relevant. Any help or pointers will be gratefully appreciated.

Walt

Try these links:

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
http://www.airguninfo.com/46index.shtml

Take the grips off and you will see through the hole on left side how the sear is engaged. Then try to adjust screws.

The instruction manual does contain a description of the trigger adjustments on page 3, paragraph 1, however the terminology may be confusing. Be sure you look at figure 6A in the back of the manual. My own description of the adjustment screws is as follows: Screw A adjusts the trigger overtravel or trigger stop. Screw B adjusts the second stage trigger creep or sear engagement. Screw C adjusts the trigger pull weight. Screw F adjusts the trigger pretravel or first stage freeplay. Since your friend was messing with the screws without fully understanding the effect, it sounds to me like Screw A may be turned in too far which will prevent the sear from releasing because the trigger is hitting the stop too soon. Try backing off on screw A when the gun is cocked and find the point where the sear just releases and then back off just a tad more for safety. Screw B is the one you probably should not fool with because that is the sear engagement. Also, if Screw F is in too far you can make the gun unsafe because tightening this screw is just like pulling the trigger.

Gary says most of it, but I just like to add the sequence I apply to mine:

1. Increase (temporarily) the trigger tension - screw C

2. Always fully cock the trigger when assessing any adustments

3. Loosen A liberally

4. Adjust F to taste (primary trigger travel)

5. Adjust B to taste (secondary trigger travel), and test (4)

6. Adjust A - screwing in limits trigger travel, but some travel after sear engagement is necessary

7. Adjust C: trigger tension (but don't go too low)

Chris.

Thanks for the helpful replies. I'll pass this on to my buddy.

Just for clarification, he didn't make any adjustments to the screws prior to the problem's appearance. The trigger just started malfunctioning for no apparent reason. And all the adjustment we did make in trying to fix things were backed out.

Walt