TargetTalk

Ok, I'm looking for some advices here. Regardless of price, if you had the choice between a wood stock (1913-U4/2) and an aluminium stock (2213) for a 1913 barreled action that will be used exclusively for prone shooting, which one would you choose and why ? Thanks for your comments !

Aluminum because it's much easier to change the rifle's setup with regard to adjustments and so forth.

I would probably go with wood, because the new anschutz wood stocks have the same adjusment system as the aluminum stocks and they are fare less likely to break, which has happened to three aluminum stocks on my team in three years

If you are only shooting prone I don't think it will matter that much.

There are plenty of adjustments on the wood stocks to get them to fit right.

For some I think the multitude of adjustments on the aluminum stocks become a distraction and they are constantly fiddling with minor adjustments instead of working on really shooting well.

Our club is about 2/3 wood stock and 1/3 aluminum. And to me it really seems to be the shooter more than the type of stock.

Make it as sinple as possible. Someone told that the rule is called KISS - Keep It Simple & Stupid. The fewer adjustments - the better.

Michael wrote:Make it as sinple as possible. Someone told that the rule is called KISS - Keep It Simple & Stupid. The fewer adjustments - the better.

For a begining shooter that is true.

You need enough adjustments to get the gun to fit properly.

The 1913 wood stock has quite a few ajustments on it.

Just looking at the Aluminum stocked guns and I can tell that German engineers really love to tinker with their rifles. They have these little weights you can move around and make minute balance adjustments with.

I think at the very higest levels of shooting you can make use of those adjustments, but you still have to be careful not to get too tied up making adjustments and forgetting to actually practice.

Most of the prone shooters I know use wood stocks, they just don't need the extra adjustability of the aluminum stocks.

I don't know of any disadvantage of the aluminum stocks. There was a discussion here on Target Talk a while back where someone brought up the differences in expansion between steel and aluminum as a possible disadvantage. But wood can absorbe moisture and expand or contract.



Just wondering,

If cost is no issue, why are you staying with the round action 1913 in the Aluminum stock? why not go with the 200X action?

Er, just a small point - there's lots here of "too many adjustments, you'd be fiddling all day".... I'd imagine there's an easy solution to this :D
(Get your coach to set up the rifle, then give your coach all the allen keys and have him hide them :D )

Sparks,

That's a good idea, but we also shoot 3P air so the kids need to adjust their rifles.

All it really takes is coaches to pay attention to their shooters and question why they are constantly making adjustments.

The one that told me to keep it simple happens to be the current European prone champion. I'm not a newcomer myself and every time I find myself wondering why didn't I keep it simple - both rifle and position.

Simply put, my 1813 barreled action shoots more accurately out of my wood stock than it did out of the aluminum. Even tried a Grunig stock and gave it back...my wood just feels and shoots better. 4 600's in the last 3 years...after changing back to my wood. It really had nothing to do with the adjustments.

EU

What's the difference in weight between the wood stock (1913-U4/2) and the aluminium stock (2213)?

Ray

It would appear from manufacturers brochures that air or smallbore rifles are about 400-600g lighter when equipped with wooden handles. John