TargetTalk

The angle of the grips on my IZH-46 didn't suit me. I made this modification to allow the grip angle to be adjusted. The basic idea is for the grips to swing from the top screw. The middle screw hole in the grips is not used and the hole is plugged. Some wood had to be removed to allow for movement of the grips. The bottom screw still holds the two grips together. There is a hex set screw in the front and rear of the grip. Each set screw threads into a square piece of steel that is inletted into the grips halves. The holes in the grips for the set screws were drilled with the grips screwed together. To change the grip's angle one screw is loosened and the other is tightened. When the adjustment is made and screws tightened there is no play in the grips. The photo shows the grips in a forward position.

overcomes the need to install shims around the frame to keep the grip from slipping. Nice work!

@

Charles...i'm glad your on this forum now...I have always admired your ingenuity and designs...I'msure your will help alot of these guys here as you have on the Crosman forum.

By the way...would you be willing to make me one of those tiggers etups you have in your Match 1377?

Thanks

Ernie the Eyeball

Hi Ernie,
I've been on this board for several years but lost my info on logging in. It seemed simpler to just re-register.
I might make you a roll over trigger if you promise not to tell the guys on the Crosman Forum. I don't want to be deluged with requests for special parts. I like making these things but quickly lose interest after I've figured them out and have made one or two.

I have sent you a private message...check your email...

here is my email

askernie@yahoo.com

Thanks
Ernie

what did you use to stipple your grips?

I looked at the grips on a Steyr that Pilkguns had for sale at one of the Little Rock Airgun Expos and determined how the tool used was shaped from looking at the stippling border.
I made a similar tool out of a 1/8" diameter piece of drill rod. It's has an X cut in the end. I used a light jewelers hammer to tap the tool all over the area I wanted stippled. I got tired and didn't make the pattern as tight as I might have wanted to. It's a very time intensive thing to do.
Edit PS: I'm going out to my shop right after I sign off here and will take a digital picture of the tool and post it here.

Here's a couple of pictures of the tool I made. It's obviously crude. You could make a much nicer one. I stated above it was made from 1/8" tool steel. That's in error. The tool is made from a piece of 1/4" common steel rod. The tip is .095" square. I put machinist's blue dye on the tip to make it show better.

Try a 3/32 nailset punch. and a 4 oz. pall peen hammer. it makes a nice gripping surface, and doesn't look too bad either.

I know this is an old thread, but I would be really interested in seeing the pictures that were originally posted.

I'm pretty sure the 'CharlesC' who posted the original pictures here, which no longer display, is the same person as 'Charles' who posted a few pictures in his online album here:
http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?ph ... puser=6613

That image shows the internal changes he's made to the grip of his IZH-46m, allowing a front and a rear Allen bolt to be adjusted and thereby adjusting the grip's rake. It's a neat enough solution. Hunting around in his pictures there are a couple of others related, scattered a bit randomly in the collection.

I might have saved myself considerable labour by using this method, but since I really wanted to do away with the front bolt I designed a slightly different way of doing the same thing. Posted a thread here about that:
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forums/topic39891.html

There are two grips in that thread, one the original used for prototyping and the second the one I'm still using, made of maple. I don't find any need to adjust the rake actually, haven't fiddled with it in the past couple of months as it seems perfectly fine to use the same rake for both 7metre and 10metre ranges. At least not enough difference for me that the difference impacts my average. So again, were I to save time in doing this I'd likely not bother making it adjustable. Easier to just figuring out the correct angle, then make a grip fitted at that angle. So the adjustability seems more of a testing thing, a tool for finding the right fit per an individual's needs. And of course such adjustments make mass-marketing of a grip a lot easier in terms of accommodating a variety of shooters.

Gerard,

Thank you very much.