Modifying rilfe grips and painting stocks

[DEAmiot]

First, does anyone know what kind of "putty" is used to modify the grips and cheekpieces on rifle stocks? I have seen lots of people who have done it, but my the folks at my local hardware store are clueless.

Second, has anyone been able to successfully paint a 2313 stock? I have a silver one, and would like it to be black (I'm a lefty, buying the black one was not an option). How about the wood parts, is it possible to paint them and still keep that nice finish?

Thanks,
David

[Guest]

Well, for your aluminum, the best bet is to take it to a local powder coater (about $50-60 in my neck of the woods), its a sprayed on powder that is then baked on, it is available in virtually any color you can dream up and is about the most durable aluminum finish short of having it anodized (about $75 for black and about 125-150 for a color if you do the prep work yourself), which is of course your more costly other option...

As for contouring the stock, I have had great success with morini grip paste (about $25 a can), it comes in a quart type paint can, though it is getting harder to find now... otherwise, plastic wood ($5-10 a tube), it comes in a tube and is usually found in the hardware store with wood filler, that too is becoming more scarce since better wood toned stainable products are available, I have seen people go as far as to use bondo, though I have never personally put bondo on one of my stocks...

And painting, the wood parts, it is possible, but if you don’t have experience doing detail painting I wouldn’t expect flawless results, base coat your image, and then clear coat the heck out of them, result being a glassy finished part you can be proud of...

GOOD LUCK post some pictures when you’re done!

[PaulB]

I have used A+B two part epoxy puddy on pistol grips. Easy to work with, very adhesive, hardens rock solid. It is a little heavy though. Neal Johnson used to carry it and it was available a number of other places. There are several other two part epoxy puddys available under other names.

[BM]

I use the same stock as you have and I used 2 component epoxy. It was quite expensive, about 15 dollar (10 euro) for the smallest package. I use it in every weather-condition (extreme cold/heat) and it still works perfect. I don't have very good memory about 'wood from a tube'. It never becomes very hard (it breaks easily) and it's hard to modify when dried. Morini should also be good but I doubt if it works on laminated wood. Most pistol-grips aren't laminated so the paste is in direct contact with the wood.

Shortly, per my opinion you should use 2 component epoxy!

Good luck,

BM

[riflenerd]

once i saw some girl whose dad painted cars for a living, and he did her rifle too. that was pretty cool. as for the grip thing, i've seen body filler used before.

[Bill177]

When you are sanding or contouring anything you have built up with an epoxy product (such as automobile body filler) be sure to use a dust mask. You DO NOT want those particles in your lungs.

Dremel tools work well for shaping - but use a dust mask.

[jrmcdaniel]

For putty, I use the wood filler made by Minwax that I got at Home Depot. It is not a catalyzed product and is not toxic in any way (well, I would not want to eat it but ...). I apply a fairly thick layer, put on a vinyl glove, spray the glove with a little bit of WD40 (as a release agent), and grap the grip to mold the putty. After removing my hand I have to do a little modeling with my finger, usually. When dry, you can scrape away what you don't want (scrapes with a fingernail, even). If you need more, repeat. (The stuff will crack on drying a bit if too thick a layer is applyed but you can just fill in the cracks with more filler.)

When you have what you like, you can stipple, apply a stain and other finishes, etc. If you leave with just a stain, it is a bit tacky and produces a non-slip surface. While the putty is never hard, there is no real wear from shooting.

This produces a grip literally molded to your hand.

Best,

Joe

[wrc]

Please be aware when modifying a rifle grip that finger grooves or other "shelf-like features" may not be allowed. Check the rulebook of your specific discipline first.

Side note: I've been looking for a material that could be used to form an apx .25" thick cheekpiece for prone and could be easily removed (ie: popped off) for std & knl. Something like a low melting point plastic sheet that could be draped over the existing stock.
Any ideas?

[davidgoerndt]

There are several plastics available that can be heat formed. Styrene sheets, a product called Sintra (PVC in sheet form) are two that come to mind. Both products come in different thicknesses. Styrene comes in thicknesses from 1/32" to 1/2" or more. Sintra comes in 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8" up to 1" thickness. A heat gun will soften both materials enough to be formed around the cheek piece.

[Spencer C]

And four or five small 'blobs' of BluTack will hold it in place until you find the right shape, thickness, and position

[1813benny]

Side note: I've been looking for a material that could be used to form an apx .25" thick cheekpiece for prone and could be easily removed (ie: popped off) for std & knl. Something like a low melting point plastic sheet that could be draped over the existing stock.
Any ideas?[/quote]

What you are looking for is a product called Repro-Rubber. It is a two-part silicone compound that hardens to a nice firm finish, but still has some spring. It also has a built in release agent that makes it really nice for a cheek piece adder that you can take on and off without any marks to the stock or adhesive residue. It is essentially the same stuff that they make the custom ear plugs out of....

I made such a cheek piece for use during scope days to keep head position perfect back when I used my Redfield 3200. I mixed up a batch and put it on the stock, wrapping the ends around the corners of the cheek piece to give it a memory. I then immediately got into position (with all equipment on) and set my face on the stock where I wanted it located, along with eye relief, pressure, cant, etc.

After 15 or so minutes, it was cured and ready for use. I hope that his helps.

[wrc]

Thanks for the cheekpiece ideas! Been wondering about that for a long while. I really don't want to fool with cutting a moveable cheekpiece into the stock for just a darn quarter of an inch height adjustment. Besides, the "playdough" I used won't make it thru next season, and I'm tired of answering why there's a red blob stuck on my rifle. %^}

[pilkguns in Orlando]

this is a good thread, a likely candidate for Augusts's prize winner

[pilkguns in Orlando]

this is a good thread, a likely candidate for Augusts's prize winner