TargetTalk

Hello again,
A few weeks ago I mentioned that I was very happy with my Baikal M46 target pistol, but I was very unhappy with the original grips. They were made from a very plain wood, had an adjustable hand rest and contained 6 holes in the grips for mounting and adjusting. To me they were ugly and I wanted a new set of grips in figured Walnut.
I requested help here in finding someone who could make me a grip from figured Walnut, preferably one piece, with no moving parts and only one hole in each side. As usual, you folks came thru with some very kind help!
One said to check a German outfit, RINK, who made grips perfectly suited to this gun, but I did not want to send my gun overseas for the purpose, and the grips still had the large adjustment base.
Another kind person told me about a man in West Virginia who made custom made grips from Walnut and when I checked his website, I found the most beautiful grips ever! His normal charge was between $150 and $200! I considered that a real bargain for the quality of his work! He was certainly a true craftsmen and cared about his work! I sent him a request immediately but to this day, about 3 or 4 weeks later, he has not replied back to me. Judging from the quality of his work and prices, he probably has more work than he can handle!
My last choice was to try to make them myself, not an easy task because as I mentioned last time, I am over 80 and my eyesight is failing a little. i also have never tried anything like this before, I have never done woodworking and I am a retired artist. I have no shop tools, only a small hobby jigsaw and a Dremel.
It has taking me over 50 hours but they are finished now and I am very happy with them! Of course I am aware that this amount of time is very unpractical, but I have nothing to do anyway.
If anyone would like to see them I have photos and would be honored to post them here, but this is only my second post and I will need instructions on how to post the photos. They are made from a nice little piece of Walnut that I found in my woods and cut the rough shape with an electric chain saw. They are one piece, no frame showing, no moving parts, they fit my hand the gun nicely, and have only one screw holding them.
Thanks again for your help with this, and I would love to post the photos if anyone wants to see them. Thank you for your time, regards, gkenny.

Never really got the whole 46M thing. It is a very accurate pistol make no mistake but Its just too plain ugly and ungainly for my liking. I much prefer say a FAS tuned up to the point where it cuts clean cards and then enjoying the less weight, nicer grips without mods and much nicer styling.
However, i will chime in regarding seals and lubrication.
All this fuss regarding lubrication is not required, its simple.
Simply purchase some regular Hydraulic machine oil.
I have used it extensively for 20 odd years and never experienced any decay of seals but much more importantly, it does not clog up the valve because it is so light.
Under high compressive forces as the O ring closes down to the TP bulkhead, any lubricant used on the O ring seal will inevitably mean a small amount of the lube forced into the TP. If its silicone grease, lithium grease, or a thick weight oil, i have found it will start to clog the valve with crud over time. Do not do it.
Its because we have to use so much of it. A few drops and forget it does not work in SSP which requires a continually wetted seal.
So a few drops of Hydraulic, or a very low weight Sewing machine oil on that felt wiper is key..here every few 100 shots.

There is some argument for Silicone oil. Its ideal for O rings and lasts on the O ring well. It is also ideal for the valve O ring group and will not clog it. The problem with Silicone is it is terrible for metal on metal lubrication and will cause contacting faces to start to gall.
Many argue that only the Seal comes into contact with the piston wall in an SSP which is true but in my experience oil always gravitates to where you do not want it.
I have never seen a light mineral oil damage an O ring but O rings need regular swapping out anyway.
Another reason why I do not like the 46M .....that inner valve seal is almost unserviceable as mentioned above and unfortunately does require servicing.

clarky wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2020 3:29 am Never really got the whole 46M thing. It is a very accurate pistol make no mistake but Its just too plain ugly and ungainly for my liking. I much prefer say a FAS tuned up to the point where it cuts clean cards and then enjoying the less weight, nicer grips without mods and much nicer styling.
However, i will chime in regarding seals and lubrication.
All this fuss regarding lubrication is not required, its simple.
Simply purchase some regular Hydraulic machine oil.
I have used it extensively for 20 odd years and never experienced any decay of seals but much more importantly, it does not clog up the valve because it is so light.
Under high compressive forces as the O ring closes down to the TP bulkhead, any lubricant used on the O ring seal will inevitably mean a small amount of the lube forced into the TP. If its silicone grease, lithium grease, or a thick weight oil, i have found it will start to clog the valve with crud over time. Do not do it.
Its because we have to use so much of it. A few drops and forget it does not work in SSP which requires a continually wetted seal.
So a few drops of Hydraulic, or a very low weight Sewing machine oil on that felt wiper is key..here every few 100 shots.

There is some argument for Silicone oil. Its ideal for O rings and lasts on the O ring well. It is also ideal for the valve O ring group and will not clog it. The problem with Silicone is it is terrible for metal on metal lubrication and will cause contacting faces to start to gall.
Many argue that only the Seal comes into contact with the piston wall in an SSP which is true but in my experience oil always gravitates to where you do not want it.
I have never seen a light mineral oil damage an O ring but O rings need regular swapping out anyway.
Another reason why I do not like the 46M .....that inner valve seal is almost unserviceable as mentioned above and unfortunately does require servicing.

Thank you Clarky, that is good information about the proper lubrication of this gun, I appreciate your input!

Regards, gkenny.

You are welcome bud. The key is to stop worrying about what the oil is doing to the O ring but worrying more about it being thin enough to flow into the valve, both lubricating those less serviceable seals but not gumming it up at the same time.
These thin oils attacking O rings, it is not something I have encountered within the time frame of me swapping them out...every 5000 rounds, or so.
One character at the club had a firm belief that white Lithium grease, helped his O rings last longer but his gun had dropped significantly in velocity over time. On inspection, his favoured lithium grease was compacted into the valve and i had to flush it with Plus Gas to get it out. Never use Moly for the same reason....its not a springer air rifle!
Its more akin to a small pneumatic device, like an air tool, requiring a continual mist of light oil.

One of the airgunsmiths who works on IZH's a lot recommended air tool oil. It's available in small bottles at hardware, air tool & building supply stores. a $5 bottle will last a lifetime.

If there is still a determination to use Lithium, Moly, SM50 etc...use it on the pivot pin...not inside the delicate works.