TargetTalk

I used a Hand Pump in the beginning when I started years ago and being ignorant at the time I would pump until the cylinder was full. The pump eventually failed within a year from the moisture created by the pump and yes I did drain the moisture, but after the pump failed we disassembled the pump and the little metal balls in the bottom of the pump had rusted together. I did get another pump and the recommendation I got this time was to only pump it for 20 strokes and let the pump cool down, but doing it this way seemed to take for ever to pump a cylinder up to full capacity, which to took more then 80 strokes to get it to full capacity. I also talked to a friend of mine who works for Airgas as one of there gas experts and he explained to me that you will be introducing more moisture from the hand pump into the air cylinders then a scuba compressor as it dosen't have the filtering system of a scuba compressor. The driest gas that he found that can be used in airguns is nitrogen gas, but that gas is not as readily available as scuba air.

David Levene wrote:

jliston48 wrote:He said that, in his experience, most of the cylinders that have had problems had been filled from hand pumps.

That was particularly obvious with the old "pip-indicator" cylinders.

They had a series of spring washers controlling the pip. Here in the UK it was obvious when the cylinder had been filled by pump, even if only a few times. The washers turned a lovely shade of rust (eventually failing).

The hand pump only has one filter were as the scuba compressors have a series of filter to collect moisture and oil.

The other problem that can occur when using a pump is that you can wear out the inlet valve, as with a pump you are opening and closing the valve with each stroke, whereas with a tank you open and close the valve once for each fill. This is particularly an issue with sporting type PCP rifles with fixed cylinders and quick fill connectors. I know a gunsmith that specialises in PCP airguns and he says he can tell how a gun has been filled when he services it just by looking at the inlet valve.

Alan

Rather than a full size dive bottle for home use, consider a Pony bottle, available in 6, 13,19 or 30 CF.
Depending on how often you shoot the bottle can last 6-9 months.

I bought my LP5 in 2002 and have used a hand pump with a device that lets a bit of air out to relieve it of moisture. Not only have I used it all that time, but so did friends and I never have done anything to the gun, pump, or cylinders all that time even for maintenance except to oil the outside of the pump surface from time to time. The pump is a Gehmann.

Pumps are too tiring, too expensive, and too fussy. Buy a used SCUBA tank at a dive shop and cruise through life..

Went to a dive shop about ten minutes away from my house to check about air tanks, as I was considering moving up to a compressed air pistol. I explained to the owner what I was after and if they were familiar with the sport. They replied that they service the tanks of the high school rifle teams in the area.

That cinched the deal for me. I bought a serviced 80 cu f Luxfer tank for $200 tax included from them.

(I have to mention the casual handling of cylinders wigs me out. I'm used to always having to protect valves and chain/secure cylinders as a mechanic.)