TargetTalk

Termites.......?

ok, now I have the solution..

The ones with the holes are the early ones.
Walther changed the compensator so the old ones have the holes around the muzzle-end and the ones with the new compensator haven't.

Neon21 wrote: ok, now I have the solution.. The ones with the holes are the early ones.

Thanks. There is another problem. It seems that we also have two different triggers here. The new one which has a spring that looks like a bent paperclip, and the old one which hasn't that spring. Now the LP400 I've seen so far here (Italy) are new because they have a compensator without the holes, but they are not new-new because they have the old trigger (no paperclip spring).

Just wondering about the holes. Dind't Steyr just replace their compensators with one with eight holes? Maybe Walter had to back off that design because it might be protected by Steyr? Or maybe it's a Steyr compensator in the picture?

If i don't forget it, I'll talk to the Walther guys at the World Cup in Munich (unfortunately End of May only) about the modifications of the LP400.

Regarding the spring - could you show me a picture?

Neon21 wrote:If i don't forget it, I'll talk to the Walther guys at the World Cup in Munich (unfortunately End of May only) about the modifications of the LP400. Regarding the spring - could you show me a picture?

I've seen somewhere the picture of the new trigger (with that 'paper clip' spring). Possibly on some Italian magazine. Not sure though. There is no picture on the web (of that new trigger) and there is no picture on the Walther web-site. The LP400 (Alu or Carbon) we can currently buy here (Italy) have the old trigger (no paper clip spring). (There is a post, by "flolo", in this thread, about the new trigger of the LP400).

dronning wrote:Just wondering about the holes. Dind't Steyr just replace their compensators with one with eight holes? Maybe Walter had to back off that design because it might be protected by Steyr? Or maybe it's a Steyr compensator in the picture?

The Walther has 10 holes :)

Actually, mine just has one larger hole that the pellet goes through. Seems to work pretty well.

Joel

From another post on TT, I get this picture (the paperclip spring can be seen)

a better picture here

lp400

Thank you for the pictures!!
Well, I never seen other springs or constructions on the LP400 then this one.
I'll note this down for asking.

Regarding the post of flolo, even with the new trigger, I can't get very low weight to the 2nd stage..
Otherwise (Avery, I hope it's ok to use your picture since I don't have my LP400 here with me?) the encircled parts of the trigger release don't touch..
Or do I have to adjust some other screws here too?

I also queried the lowest second stage weight. The factory said it should go down to approximately 80g as follows:


do your customer already have a LP400 with the additional spring 278 74 82 in the trigger? See drawing attached.. Maybe it is a problem of adjusting.. the second stage can be adjusted down to ~80g

To mount and adjust the additional spring:

1. Assamble the additional spring
2. Turn screw (a) one or two rounds out (important!)
3. Turn screw (c) in until the pawl gets contact to the trigger sear
4. Cock the trigger
5. Thighten the screw (a) until the trigger is released
6. Turn back screw (a) about 1/4 bis 1/6 round
7. Now the minimum force on the second stage is adjusted, for more adjusting use only the screw for first stage force

Here is a reference photo

The trigger will come down to 80g on second stage, but you may have to increase the sear engagement a little to be reliable.
Works quite well at 100g and a fine sear setting.
Be careful not to set a too fine trigger stop, the light pistol weight is unforgiving to trigger errors.

David M wrote: Be careful not to set a too fine trigger stop, the light pistol weight is unforgiving to trigger errors.

David, could you explain this for "dummies" , please?

With a fine trigger stop if you snatch a trigger it quickly hits the stop and imparts a load to the frame. The frame weight is low so had little inertia and you will pull the shot way off.
Set a greater stop distance and the error will not be as large.
Better is to fiddle the sear angles and spring weights so that the trigger has only a little or no collapse in weight at release, then you can totally remove the trigger stop.

I was bought it and sell it.

Unhappy with this pistol quality. Fragile grip.
Most expensive pistol. Same praice only have 1 cylinder tube (another for 10 years LOL ), plastic trigger...zzz
this pistol with recoil dumper ? but i still can feel it recoil.

for same price better choose steyr.

I like the idea of one cylinder with another free in 10 years. Rifles only come with one and in the states, flying with a spare sometimes gets you into trouble or questions asked by TSA. Unless you a shooting a short air pistol cylinder, not sure why you would need two. Would rather pay for just one and essentially get 20 years worth of cylinders. Having 2 cylinders expire at the same time almost makes you want to retire it for practice and put the $500 to the latest and greatest.
I guess I could of only gotten one cylinder with the new K12 but the second one was discounted enough that it was probably a better investment to get it now just in case. Are problems with cylinders very common where you need a spare? I have never had an issue with any of the 4 different brands I have used.

This is what I did. I'm not a 570 shooter but did recognise shortcomings in trigger after thousands of pellets and dryfires.
See photos.
Grip is actually taken from my Morini 162 (Rink grip) because it points perfectly.
Removed the pawl/sear and stoned small angle to reduce the snagging I was feeling.
Made an easily adjustable screw with large knurled head from acetal.
Installed very light spring.
Replaced original trigger with one from GSP; still plastic but more comfortable.
I can get really light release force now. Too light really but easily adjustable with new screw. Heavier springs were too difficult to adjust. Seemed either on or off.

I too have done a similar thing to the trigger. The pawl/sear angle was changed a little (1-1.5 deg less) by using a diamond lap, then I removed the paperclip spring and fitted a lighter spring to get a better release.
Shot this for a while with different wire weight springs and lengths.
Finally I re-fitted the paperclip spring and fitted a longer spring, finer wire but more coils on the 2nd stage.
This improved the adjustment range and the sear engagement/release.
Currently shooting this setup as it allow a 60-120g second stage with a reliable sear engagement of 1/4 turn on screw.