Steyr lp1 co2.
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Steyr lp1 co2.
Hello folks, i'm putting my eyes on a Steyr lp1 co2 sold by a range old shooter, i don't know what version is, but he say that was originaly equipped with steel cylinder. I don't see the gun yet, but from what i saw here on tt, maybe is a god gun.
I have a question: there are 2 different version of steyr lp1 listed on pilkguns tenp:
Late model
Old model
Seems to me, that old one are different from
1. Different Trigger.
2. No Compensator.
3. Steel cylinder (aluminum in the late model).
4. Rear Sight Width/Depth not adjustable.
I was wondering if exist a first version with steel cylinder and compensator.
Thank you,
LukeP.
I have a question: there are 2 different version of steyr lp1 listed on pilkguns tenp:
Late model
Old model
Seems to me, that old one are different from
1. Different Trigger.
2. No Compensator.
3. Steel cylinder (aluminum in the late model).
4. Rear Sight Width/Depth not adjustable.
I was wondering if exist a first version with steel cylinder and compensator.
Thank you,
LukeP.
Can you post a pics of yours?Rob wrote:Dos'nt matter what version it is. There still quality pistols. Mines a early gun with steel cylinders and a Nygord comp to reduce the overall weight. Wife has one too.
I'm wondering if was made a version that was originally equipped with compensator (steyr, not Nygord) and the steel cylinders.
I read that without compensator is not soo nice too shoot.
Thank you,
LukeP.
Thank you Richard, definitively i must try the gun, so if it'll give me good sensation i'll take it.Richard H wrote:There is some difference, but not lots. You can always buy a shroud latter and if you want even buy an LP10 barrel and get the porting too. In Canada in good shape the LP 1's go for around $900.
I came from italy, market is not the same as over the ocean, i think a a reasonable price for the gun without the compensator is around $600, for a lp1 co2 with the compensator i think around $800.
P.S. (Wish the gun have the compensator, but the fact that was originally equipped with steel cylinder don't make me feel so sure..)
If you want to have an idea of the prices for LP1, you can look on egun there are two LP1 CO2 for the moment:
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=1622262
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=1615086
There are also three LP10.
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=1622262
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=1615086
There are also three LP10.
In your opinion, from the pics post on auctions, they are equipped with steel cylinders or aluminum ones?jipe wrote:If you want to have an idea of the prices for LP1, you can look on egun there are two LP1 CO2 for the moment:
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=1622262
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=1615086
Thank you.
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- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
Luke,
I currently own an LP1 with alu cylinders and compensator. I have previously owned an earlier-vintage LP1. That pistol was first purchased without a compensator, and with steel cylinders. The first owner then purchased the barrel shroud with compensator and shot with it installed up until he sold the pistol.
The weight difference between steel and alu cylinders is quite significant, so much so that I could not shoot with the steel because they caused the balance point to be too far forward. If you are looking at purchasing an LP1 the easiest way to tell which cylinders it has is to measure their length and then read the TARA weight stamped on them. The "standard" alu cylinder is 19 cm long with a TARA of 0.187 Kg. The "short" alu cylinder is 16 cm long with a TARA of 0.169 Kg. Each cylinder will be slightly different as a result of manufacturing tolerances, but all aluminim cylinders should be close to these values. The steel cylinders will be appreciably heavier.
The LP-1 with compensator is a much nicer pistol to shoot than one without compensator, and there is really no neat way to install an additional compensator like the Nygord on the LP1 unless you leave the barrel shroud off completely.
Richard has already added some valuable comments about the LP1 and I would agree with him completely. It's a beautiful pistol. I had an LP10 and sold it, but still have my LP1. I guess that says something...
I currently own an LP1 with alu cylinders and compensator. I have previously owned an earlier-vintage LP1. That pistol was first purchased without a compensator, and with steel cylinders. The first owner then purchased the barrel shroud with compensator and shot with it installed up until he sold the pistol.
The weight difference between steel and alu cylinders is quite significant, so much so that I could not shoot with the steel because they caused the balance point to be too far forward. If you are looking at purchasing an LP1 the easiest way to tell which cylinders it has is to measure their length and then read the TARA weight stamped on them. The "standard" alu cylinder is 19 cm long with a TARA of 0.187 Kg. The "short" alu cylinder is 16 cm long with a TARA of 0.169 Kg. Each cylinder will be slightly different as a result of manufacturing tolerances, but all aluminim cylinders should be close to these values. The steel cylinders will be appreciably heavier.
The LP-1 with compensator is a much nicer pistol to shoot than one without compensator, and there is really no neat way to install an additional compensator like the Nygord on the LP1 unless you leave the barrel shroud off completely.
Richard has already added some valuable comments about the LP1 and I would agree with him completely. It's a beautiful pistol. I had an LP10 and sold it, but still have my LP1. I guess that says something...
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- Posts: 583
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
One additional point... Most steel cylinders were originally black, while aluminum cylinders were originally grey in colour. Of course, there's nothing stopping people from re-painting their cylinders to make them different colours, so the easiest way to be sure if they're steel or aluminum is to go by their TARA weight.
Luke I'm sure you are aware both those pistol on e guns do have the compenstaor.
Last edited by Richard H on Mon Jan 14, 2008 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
About the cylinder: if the pistol is equipped with steel cylinder, instead of buying aluminium cylinder, you can also buy an air conversion kit that comes with the cylinders.
One thing you should also consider when buying an LP1 is that the LP10 was introduced end 1999 and the production of the LP1 stopped, I think around the same date, meaning that an LP1 will be at least 7 year old with a chance having been heavily used and/or having had several owners.
So, personally, even if the LP1 is a very good pistol, unless I know the owner and the history of the pistol or it is a collector LP1 (there were several special editions made, like a "Deuschland" edition with the color of the German flag, a green edition that was green anodised... these were often bought as collector and not really used), I wouldn't put too much money in it.
One thing you should also consider when buying an LP1 is that the LP10 was introduced end 1999 and the production of the LP1 stopped, I think around the same date, meaning that an LP1 will be at least 7 year old with a chance having been heavily used and/or having had several owners.
So, personally, even if the LP1 is a very good pistol, unless I know the owner and the history of the pistol or it is a collector LP1 (there were several special editions made, like a "Deuschland" edition with the color of the German flag, a green edition that was green anodised... these were often bought as collector and not really used), I wouldn't put too much money in it.
- Fred Mannis
- Posts: 1298
- Joined: Sun Aug 29, 2004 8:37 pm
- Location: Delaware
LP1
I also own an LP1 (1998 mfr) that I have converted to compressed air, and I second Richard and Mark's comments about this pistol. It is an excellent gun and I still shoot it better than my brand new FWB P44. As far as wear and tear goes, spare parts are readily available. These guns are very well made and a previous owner would have to be very delinquent to do them serious damage.
Thank you again jipe, you focus on the right view.jipe wrote:About the cylinder: if the pistol is equipped with steel cylinder, instead of buying aluminium cylinder, you can also buy an air conversion kit that comes with the cylinders.
The pistol is equipped with 2 steel cylinder, and 3 aluminium (one is pink...).
I don't know what version is (compensator yes or not), nor what color, and i'll see it tomorrow afternoon.
I'm not interested before this moment about lp1 (i was focused on new lp10), but at the range i meet this old gentleman, and talking about steyr, he said me that he have this steyr lp1: he don't use it anymore, instead he bought a hammerly ap40, more to try something different than from a real necessity (his words...).
I know him, so tomorrow i'll ask the detailed history of the pistol, and i can shoot the pistol as long as I want to evaluate it without problem.
Thank you.
Re: LP1
What I mean is that serious AP shooters easily shoot 10000 or more pellets per year, times at least seven years is quite a lot of shots even for a Steyr.Fred Mannis wrote:I also own an LP1 (1998 mfr) that I have converted to compressed air, and I second Richard and Mark's comments about this pistol. It is an excellent gun and I still shoot it better than my brand new FWB P44. As far as wear and tear goes, spare parts are readily available. These guns are very well made and a previous owner would have to be very delinquent to do them serious damage.
Jipe still don't get your point , are you saying there is something wrong with guns that are a few years old.
Unlike cartridge firearms there is no leading, pistol velocity is too low to get leading, field target rifles pushing high velocity is a different story and there is no corrosive powder nor mechanical shock to damage the pistol.
A well maintained air pistol will last decades. Personally I'm usually a buy new kind of guy but I do that because I like new. If someone wants to buy a used airpistol that is in good shape, so be it. Saying that there is something wrong with them just because there might be 100 000 pellets through it is wrong and misleading. I go through a case plus most years so that's at least 25000 and I never even changed a seal in the last 7 years since I've own my LP10.
Unlike cartridge firearms there is no leading, pistol velocity is too low to get leading, field target rifles pushing high velocity is a different story and there is no corrosive powder nor mechanical shock to damage the pistol.
A well maintained air pistol will last decades. Personally I'm usually a buy new kind of guy but I do that because I like new. If someone wants to buy a used airpistol that is in good shape, so be it. Saying that there is something wrong with them just because there might be 100 000 pellets through it is wrong and misleading. I go through a case plus most years so that's at least 25000 and I never even changed a seal in the last 7 years since I've own my LP10.