TOZ Grips - Making or Modifying Existing Grips

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shadow
Posts: 358
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:56 pm

TOZ Grips - Making or Modifying Existing Grips

Post by shadow »

Good Evening,

I was wondering if anyone has successfully made a set of ortho grips. Also, I have a variety of ortho grips for other firearms (Walther OSP wraparound, SW Model 52 wraparound, and Herrett) and wonder if they can be modified to fit the TOZ.

Thanks!
JamesH

Grips

Post by JamesH »

Which Toz?
I have made them for the Toz 49.
shadow
Posts: 358
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:56 pm

Grips

Post by shadow »

Can you describe the process you used and what machinery is required?

Thanks!
Mark Briggs
Posts: 583
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada

Post by Mark Briggs »

Shadow - anatomical grips aren't rocket science. It's just another form of woodworking. I haven't made a set for a Toz, but have highly customized my Morini grip for the CM84 free pistol. Likewise, I've made anatomical grips for a standard pistol, but in truth my experience is limited. Unless you really enjoy working with wood and have all kinds of time to burn, you're probably better off purchasing a good grip from Morini or Rink.

That having been said, the tools you need are pretty basic. Sharp chisels and a Dremel tool for inletting the blank to fit the pistol frame, then a rasp, Dremel with sanding drum and a drill for the shaping of the grip. Afterwards some fine sandpaper and a Dremel with a flap wheel sanding drum does a good job of preparing for the finish. Danish oil or Tung oil seem to work well for this purpose.

Oh, there are two other critical ingredients. Time and patience, both in large quantities. ;-)
shadow
Posts: 358
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:56 pm

Grips - Any Other Material Besides Wood................

Post by shadow »

.....just wondering, have grips ever been made (successfully) out of other materials besides wood?

Susan
Walter
Posts: 101
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 1:50 pm

Post by Walter »

I made one out of melting plastic beads.
And thenI bought one from Rink.
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JamesH

Grips

Post by JamesH »

Personally I use a set of templates and a router to inlet two halves of the grip, then glue together.

Then rough carve, add plastic filler until its right, then copy onto another piece of wood with a 3D copy router.

But if you're making only one grip for the time and effort you're better buying a Rink, Nill, Morini etc.

I can do some pics sometime if anyone is interested.

Plus I have CAD models for K38, Toz49 and Izh35 frames (still need to fine tune them....)
shadow
Posts: 358
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:56 pm

Making Grips

Post by shadow »

I just read about some slicone mold material. I was wondering if I could take a mold of the rink grips and thet use some of the melted plastic pellets. I also read about making a past of wood sawdust and some epoxy or airplane "dope" which I know nothing about.

Please give me your input.
JamesH

Grips

Post by JamesH »

I have also had a stab at making silicone moulds and casting polyurethane into the mould, with varying degrees of success.
JamesH

Grips

Post by JamesH »

I will put together a PPT and send out on request...
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dmarschal
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:08 am
Location: Budapest, Hungary
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Post by dmarschal »

Hello,
I'm glad I found this forum (-:

I've made several match grips from scratch and from an existing stock fitted to the shooter's hand.
I'm writing because I got an inquiry on making anatomical grips for Baikal IZH-35M. If anyone could help me a 3D model of the IZH-35 that would be highly appreciated! I'm using CAD/CAM and already have twenty-two 3D models for various sport guns.


On modifying an existing set.
I'm using Dremel and carving equipments for removing some material and a strippling tool. When I have to fill gaps between the hand and the grips I use wood dust and nitro-based lacquers mixed together. The important thing is the material should not shrink and should not generate heat - that is painful to the shooter. After drying the filling material could be carved, sanded or strippled - just like solid wood.
My experience is making a bit smaller grips and fit them to the shooter's hand in proper order.


Thanks and I hope I was not too long and disturbing,
Dennis
Guest

Post by Guest »

Fitting to a TOZ 35 is pretty staightforward as the inletting is simple. It is helpful to have a grip to examine. Look at the cocking lever housing from below and you'll see the fitting is mostly to one of the two grip panels. Freehand routing with a dremel in a router base or a laminate trimmer works well. Score the outline of the gripframe onto the wood first. You can even inlet within a scored line using chisels and carving knives. If you want to finish with a perfect fit use Brownell's acraglass (don't forget the release agent!!). You can get an absolutely gapless fit between grip inlet and gripframe this way. O.K., so know you have a big block of wood fit to the frame, know what? Remove wood! I recommend Microplane rasps. They are cheap (about $10 each) and come in different shapes and sizes. They are much easier to control, and much cleaner than a dremel or handgrinder with a sanding disc. Who wants all that dust, anyways! Besides, there is nothing uglier than a big gash to your triggerguard or rear sight caused by an out of control dremel. You can easily fit to your hand shape and size as it is today, but if you screw up you can add material. I prefer Realwood epoxy wood putty, especially the walnut colored stuff. Cut off a piece, roll it up to activate the resin and catalyst, stick it on the grip and squeeze to shape with your shooting hand. But, there is an alternative: use the padded Dr. Shoal's self adhesive pads sold in drugstores. Cut to shape and stick them on. They have the advantage of conforming to the shape of your hand. After all, do you where cushioned shoes or wooden clogs? These work best on the palmrest or the area above the metacarpals of the thumb and idex finger.
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