Pardini K58 seal replacement

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:33 pm

Hello there.
Has anyone replaced the main compression seal in a Pardini K58? Can it be done from the open end or does the whole gun have to be taken apart.
Lastly, any idea where I can get one? (UK shooter)

Bill177 · Post by **Bill177** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:02 pm

http://www.larrysguns.com/

Take the gun apart. If it is time to replace a seal - it is time to service and lubricate the entire gun. You can get a seal kit from Larry at the above link. You will also need a small tube of Pardini lubricant (us no other - this stuff is good!).

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 2:48 am

Cheers Bill. Do you or any other member know how simple it is to get this pistol apart? I have already discovered the piston does not come out of the open end, so I guess the compression cylinder separates from the action somehow. How many parts fall out when it comes apart?!
Peter.

ted · Post by **ted** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:24 am

I have taken apart and repaired two fwb 80's from the info gained from the 'ten p 'files on this website. While not exactly like the fwb 80, it is probably more similar to the izh-46 but, a friendly call to pilkguns might be able to get your questions answered!

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:03 pm

Does anyone know if the screw marked VP below is the one to release the front end of the pistol?? It's all I could find in the ten p files.

Bill177 · Post by **Bill177** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:27 pm

No the VP screw does not release the front of the gun. It has to do with valve control. Leave it alone unless you plan to completely tear the gun down.

As I recall, and it has been a while since I took a K58 apart, release the charging arm and extend it down to a point of relaxation. Then notice where the pin is that that arm pivots on. I think there is a C clip there. Carefully push the C clip off the pin. Then pull the pin out. This will release the charging arm and you pull out the piston assembly to the front of the gun. There may be another pin involved, but without the gun in front of me I can't help much more.

The o-ring seal goes on the piston. With a little Pardini lube. A L I T T L E amount - don't overdo it.

This is not rocket science, but you must be careful to prevent scratching you gun.

If you are in doubt, I suggest you send the gun to our host for service. It won't be expensive and it will be done right.

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:01 am

Thanks Bill, I already tried that. Even with the eccentric pin removed the piston still has half-inch of engagement with the compression chamber. Unlike some guns this one does not have a removable pivot block, and the chamber is bored from the other end, so the piston will not pass thru forwards enough to free it. This one is 7 years old, maybe they "improved" the design.
Pardini are not very helpful - they say the barrel and "rod" need to come off and "is not easy". They cannot supply drawings or maintenance manual. How do you make a gun without having drawings and a manual? Every other article made by man has a pdf manual out there somewhere. All the dealers I tried will sell me the parts but not the know-how. I guess it's close ranks and jobs for the boys.

Bill177 · Post by **Bill177** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:19 am

I sent you a PM about the K58.

Richard H · Post by **Richard H** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:45 pm

Bill177 wrote:No the VP screw does not release the front of the gun. It has to do with valve control. Leave it alone unless you plan to completely tear the gun down.

As I recall, and it has been a while since I took a K58 apart, release the charging arm and extend it down to a point of relaxation. Then notice where the pin is that that arm pivots on. I think there is a C clip there. Carefully push the C clip off the pin. Then pull the pin out. This will release the charging arm and you pull out the piston assembly to the front of the gun. There may be another pin involved, but without the gun in front of me I can't help much more.

The o-ring seal goes on the piston. With a little Pardini lube. A L I T T L E amount - don't overdo it.

This is not rocket science, but you must be careful to prevent scratching you gun.

If you are in doubt, I suggest you send the gun to our host for service. It won't be expensive and it will be done right.

Bill he's in the UK I'm sure he can find someone over there to change the seals.

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:58 am

Richard H wrote: (snip) he's in the UK I'm sure he can find someone over there to change the seals.

You would think so, especially being a tad closer to Italy, but so far the only place to confirm having the parts is Larry's in the US. With help I am receiving from you guys on the forum by p.m. I am becoming confident I will be able to tackle the job.

Peter Harpenden Air Weapons Club

Bill177 · Post by **Bill177** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:20 am

I have a K2S I purchased from the late Don Nygord just a few months prior to his death. I have also had other Pardini products.

Securing seals and other small parts was a problem for me.

Larry delayed shipment as he was "unpacking" from a move. Pardini will not sell direct, as there is a USA rep. The rep being Larry. Emails went unanswered, telephone calls were not returned, etc. There was no information available, product support literature does not exist, whatever the excuse was - it sure turned me off both the brand and the rep.

I eventually did receive the parts and resealed the guns in question (from a source other than the USA Pardini rep). The guns have all been sold and everything that supported those guns, such as cylinders, was given away to the coach of a young people shooting group in New Jersey. All I have left is my K2S and its cylinders etc.

If I was buying a new AP now, I would only consider a Steyr. This is solely due to customer support issues. The Pardini gun is a shooter - but so would the Steyr be a shooter. Do your homework before you purchase and find out if the dealer/rep/factory is going to be there when you need them - or if there is in fact even a dealer in your country.

ted · Post by **ted** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:24 am

I have a k58 that is used for the high schoo team I coach. I would like a diagram or instruction of how to replace the seals if anyone has one.Thanks. Velocity is still 425 fps but, I want to be prepared for when it eventually goes.

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:46 pm

Ted, As you are signed on as a Guest I can't send you a private mail, so email me at the email address below and when I have finished the job it will be fresh in my mind and I will send you the details. If you can't see my email address I guess you will have to register.
I intend to photograph the process anyway. If I can find out how to get them onto the DIY files I will do so also.
Peter.

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:49 pm

To close this topic, I have managed the repair thanks to help from several forum members. A photo story of how I did it is here for anyone else interested.
Peter.

Fred Mannis · Post by **Fred Mannis** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:14 pm

Peter,
First rate description and pictures of the process. I've thought about purchasing a K58 from time to time; now I am glad I didn't!

Fred

jarviser · Post by **jarviser** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:06 am

Well at least it is a DIY job and the parts came in 2 days. I used to own a top range German target air rifle and the regulator went. It took 6 weeks for the internal parts to arrive from Germany to the UK official repairers. Then the repairers were unable to strip it down, so the reg had to be sent to Germany to be rebuilt in the factory. Took 3 months! Peter.

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Pardini K58 seal replacement

Pardini K58 seal replacement

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