in 50 m prone or 50m 3 position do u use a wood stock or aluminum/metal? Could u also say why u use one over the other also, and which alu stock is ur fav. and which wood stcok is your fav.
Thnx[/i][/b]
wood or alu (and WHY)
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wood or alu (and WHY)
Last edited by Blah on Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.
one of the differences in the two stocks is an Alu stock is sensitive to temperature which expands 30 times faster than steel. this is why torque settings are so important and must not be ignored. At Ft. Benning there could be a 50 degree difference between the morning and afternoon, so if you torqued the rifle then your shots will be off later.
Another difference in the stocks is an Alu stock lacks the contact point in chest area while in the standing position. I own an alu stock so I made what some people call an upside down cheek piece to compansate for it. Works as if it was there all along.
In the end its all about personal preference. an alu stock has more adjustments and might be what you are looking for in the 3-p event but if shooting prone wood is all you need.
In terms of which alu and wood stocks are the best I believe for the alu its the anschutz 2313 only because its proven itself by world class shooters. as for the wood it would be the anschutz 2013 which I think might be discontinued which is a shame, but may still be found.
Another difference in the stocks is an Alu stock lacks the contact point in chest area while in the standing position. I own an alu stock so I made what some people call an upside down cheek piece to compansate for it. Works as if it was there all along.
In the end its all about personal preference. an alu stock has more adjustments and might be what you are looking for in the 3-p event but if shooting prone wood is all you need.
In terms of which alu and wood stocks are the best I believe for the alu its the anschutz 2313 only because its proven itself by world class shooters. as for the wood it would be the anschutz 2013 which I think might be discontinued which is a shame, but may still be found.
one of the differences in the two stocks is an Alu stock is sensitive to temperature which expands 30 times faster than steel. this is why torque settings are so important and must not be ignored. At Ft. Benning there could be a 50 degree difference between the morning and afternoon, so if you torqued the rifle then your shots will be off later.
Another difference in the stocks is an Alu stock lacks the contact point in chest area while in the standing position. I own an alu stock so I made what some people call an upside down cheek piece to compansate for it. Works as if it was there all along.
In the end its all about personal preference. an alu stock has more adjustments and might be what you are looking for in the 3-p event but if shooting prone wood is all you need.
In terms of which alu and wood stocks are the best I believe for the alu its the anschutz 2313 only because its proven itself by world class shooters. as for the wood it would be the anschutz 2013 which I think might be discontinued which is a shame, but may still be found.
Another difference in the stocks is an Alu stock lacks the contact point in chest area while in the standing position. I own an alu stock so I made what some people call an upside down cheek piece to compansate for it. Works as if it was there all along.
In the end its all about personal preference. an alu stock has more adjustments and might be what you are looking for in the 3-p event but if shooting prone wood is all you need.
In terms of which alu and wood stocks are the best I believe for the alu its the anschutz 2313 only because its proven itself by world class shooters. as for the wood it would be the anschutz 2013 which I think might be discontinued which is a shame, but may still be found.
chris3P, i dont quite get what your are saying. I am not too familiar with alu stocks so ya.... by torque settings do u mean "how tight" you tighten the nuts and bolts or w/e u wanna call em? what i think you're tryin to say is that the alu(the nuts and bolts part) which adjusts the cheek piece will expand causing it to not be adjustable. Can anyone help me with this?
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Guest
when someone talks about torque they are refering to the bedding scews on the action being "tight". Since we are dealing with a metal it will fluctuate in diiferent temperatures. I'm not saying that an alu stock will be loose all the time and you'll never be able to adjust anything. For example with your gun in a vise, if you torqued the stock (bedding screws) at 6nm(newton meters) which is optimum you'll get a nice group at 50 meters and if you torque the gun at 4nm you'll get a different group all together. It all seems very complicated but is not.
thanks for clarifying it chris3P! Would the "tightness" of the bedding screws actually change that drastically. like from 6nm to 4 nm. How much would that change your groupings(size)? Another thing about alu stocks and weather/temperature is that when it gets fairly cold outside, the stock can get preatty cold because its metal. Its not a HUGH problem but another thing to think about.
Chris3p, could you send me pictures about the new cheekplate you created to solve the "chest-contact" issue? Please e-mail them to:
bmcasual@hotmail.com
Tnx in advance!
bmcasual@hotmail.com
Tnx in advance!
