Morini 200EI doesn't want to work anymore

[David M]

Pull apart, remove from pistol and use a good quality Electrial Contact Spray Cleaner on all plugs.
Check each plug for socket tension and repair any loose sockets.
Check with a pin or needle the same size as connector pins. Do not force the socket.
Plug in sockets and check for continuity across each pin when plugged together..
I am not 100% sure, but I think a quick flashing LED is a open circuit, possibly trigger circuit.

[SMC]

I guess the question is: Did you make changes to the trigger before the problem started? I had similar problems when I adjusted the trigger to have a very light stage 2. The electronics are sensitive to going significantly out of factory settings, unlike a mechanical trigger. So... did you change your trigger settings? Going back to close to original setting resolved my issues.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Steve

[PirateJohn]

I did change the trigger. I had to, in fact, as it was failing weight testing when it arrived. But, frankly, if the gun is so sensitive that it breaks when I try to adjust it to my liking, it's kind of a shitty product, dontcha think?

[SMC]

OK. I believe that a balance between stage 1 and 2 is important to keep the electronics happy. I added extra weight to stage 1 and backed off weight on stage 2. That caused my failure. Try adding more stage 2 weight and see if the electronics get happy again. Then try to work out an acceptable balance between the stages and weight. Do the adjustments with the electronics turned off. When it reboots, it may reset the fault.

Regarding quality, I have no issues with the design. I am impressed with it. The only thing that I miss is the low pressure latch that was on the 162. Regarding trigger spring adjustments, I have screwed up a mechanical trigger (long ago) by misadjusting the trigger springs. One of the springs was adjusted with too much pressure and it became kinked. It had to be sent back to Switzerland because nobody in the American service center could figure it out. It was good that I had a backup air pistol. The point is, you have to work within the design parameters.

If this doesn't help, I would contact Federico Repich through the Morini website. He gave me amazing service when I had an issue with my 200Ei. It turned out to be a factory defect to a small spring and plunger for the trigger solenoid. He sent me the parts for free and sent extremely detailed instructions for the replacement. He followed up to make sure that the repair was effective.

I hope that this helps.

Steve

[PirateJohn]

I already got in touch with the folks at Morini and they told me to take out the boards and send them to Switzerland, so I'll be doing that tomorrow.

[atomicgale]

Whenever I turn the switch on, the red LED blinks rapidly for a few seconds and the trigger doesn't work at all. Anybody else ever have this issue?

AT MATCH: 6 minutes into 15 minute sight-in period: Morini 200EI melts down. Doesn't fire. Doesn't click - NOTHING!!! At CMP-November - What a total WASTE of travel time, WASTE of frustration, WASTE of money. THANKS MORINI !!!

See my post: MORINI MELTDOWN - Don't buy the 200EI - for any reason.

[Grippy]

OK. I believe that a balance between stage 1 and 2 is important to keep the electronics happy. I added extra weight to stage 1 and backed off weight on stage 2.

That is true for any gun in my experience and even more so for mechanical ones. I found I could get the second stage on both my CM200 and EVO10e lower than on any of the mechanical ones. I can't measure it exactly but it's about 70 grams on the second stage. I assume lower would be possible but that is what feels about right for me.
The mechanical triggers tend to become inconsistent when going that low in my experience and will require frequent checking and readjusting to hold the weight.

[Reinhamre]

If you stop shooting for a length of time, 5 minuts, one should turn electricity OFF. If not the pistol will shut down of it self and if so it will NOT work if you turn it off and then on again. You must do it twice, and then it will be OK again.
I have old CM200, with no bluetoth.

[PirateJohn]

If you stop shooting for a length of time, 5 minuts, one should turn electricity OFF. If not the pistol will shut down of it self and if so it will NOT work if you turn it off and then on again. You must do it twice, and then it will be OK again.
I have old CM200, with no bluetoth.

That wasn't what happened here. Cycling the power would fix that. Mine wouldn't turn on at all. It stopped working right in the middle of a training drill while I was still holding it.

[Dmaryakh]

I was about to buy a CM200EI myself . . .

Good luck - there's no 200's for sale anywhere on this continent. I was going to buy a second (back-up) before possibly parting with my 162's.
[/quote]

Few pistols are on their way to SportShootingDepot - definitely before WAG (and more will be coming in January/February)

[PirateJohn]

I sent the circuit boards and switch to Morini in Switzerland. They said the circuit boards worked on their end so they updated the firmware and sent new cables. A month after I sent the boards to them, I got them back, hooked them up with the new cables...

...and the friggin' thing still doesn't work

[Gwelo]

I was about to buy a CM200EI myself . . .

Good luck - there's no 200's for sale anywhere on this continent. I was going to buy a second (back-up) before possibly parting with my 162's.

Few pistols are on their way to SportShootingDepot - definitely before WAG (and more will be coming in January/February)
[/quote]

Here’s a used 200EI on AA. I know nothing about the owner/sale. It’s AA so buyer beware!
https://www.airguns.net/classifieds/sho ... rOfPages=2

[Grippy]

By this point I'd almost bet there is some issue with the trigger contact. There is something in there that prevents it from closing or the connector on the pistol side is bad. The trigger contact is closed by default and is opened when pressing the trigger. If it isn't closed during startup you get the exact described behavior (fast blinking).

[Grippy]

I'd check if the two indicated contacts are connected with a continuity tester on a multimeter. They should be. If they are not the problem is inside the trigger mechanism/contact. Otherwise I'd check the corresponding pins in the connector, cable etc.

If it is in the trigger as an experiment I'd increase first stage travel (screw 1 figure 4 from the manual) and second stage weight (screw 2 figure 4).