Caring for an MG2E

[kqrxbn]

Another short report by newbie from the land of the Italian pistol!

I have discovered a peculiar thing. I noticed on the first day that the screw for adjusting the sights vertically has distinct clicks, while the screw for adjusting horizontally does not. I did not think of that very much at the time. Now I have become a bit more accustomed to the pistol and my groups are starting to look a bit better, so actually centring the sights and keeping them there is becoming relevant. I noticed that my groups tended to land toward the left for some reason. I continued grinding through the process for a bit but could not explain what I did wrong, so I adjusted the sights again and got the groups to where they should be. Over the next couple of sessions I started noticing that the groups wandered to the left again.

I suddenly realised that it may be the screw, so after centring it again I put a little dot on it with a marker and yes: it adjusts itself! Today, I checked every now and then and had to turn it a few degrees every ten shots or so. I cannot imagine it is meant to behave like that, but I am not sure what to do about it. I am thinking there might be some little thingy somewhere that holds it in place that has gotten loose. Has anyone experienced this MG quirk?

Otherwise, in terms of my experience, I am very happy with the pistol so far. Exceeded my previous .22 personal best with good margin today and it keeps ticking along. I had one fault today, where the slide did not go fully forward. The cartridge was still in that little lift thingy, so I just dragged the slide back and let it go, and all was good. Last week I have only shot Norma Tac-22, because unlike SK Pistol Match they tend not to slide upwards on loading. There is a competition on Saturday and after that I will try SK Pistol Match again: it is a very popular and available brand here, so it is good to learn how to deal with its slipperiness.

[Gwhite]

There should be a small spring loaded ball (part #2068) that provides the clicks. Mine has very strong clicks. It sounds like the ball or the spring (or both) are missing. The exploded diagram isn't at all clear about where the windage detent system is buried, and the rear sight assembly is pretty complex. I looked at mine, and I have no idea how to get it apart to fix that issue.

I think you need to talk to MatchGuns or your importer. It may be simplest to see if they will send you an entire rear sight assembly, and then send yours back.

Good luck!

[kqrxbn]

Cool. I've sent them an email. Does not sound like I should try to disassemble it before Saturday's competition ;)

[Shiloh]

You don't mention where you are located or where you purchased your MG2E.

If you are in the U.S., then you should contact the U.S. importer, Kangbin Chua, who is located in the LA, CA area. (MatchgunsUSA@hotmail.com).

He has been extremely helpful with anything and everything regarding my MG2 EVO Rapid Fire pistol.

[kqrxbn]

Thanks, Shiloh. I'm located in northern Europe and we have a single reseller in the country. I have been in touch with them and they are in agreement that it sounds like it's not as it should be. I'm now waiting for them to get back to me with suggestions on how we should do a warranty replacement of the assembly, I hope. Meanwhile I simply adjust it every few shots. Not completely ideal but workable.

[rmca]

The adjustment screws on the sights of the MG2 are kept in place by a small ball pushed by a small spring.
Part numbers 2068 and 2087. You are probably missing one of those balls.
The parts list names the 2068 part as a 2mm sphere and the 2087 part as a 3mm sphere. (very strange that they are not equal, but it is what it says...)
Without those balls, you don't have the clicking sound nor the secure in place of the screw.
Should be an easy fix...

Manual here: https://meisterschuetzen.org/attachment ... mg2-e-pdf/
It is in Italian. Page 21 and 22 has the info you want.

Hope this helps

[kqrxbn]

Hello, rmca! It is helpful, but given that the pistol is only a few weeks old I think I prefer to offload the problem to the reseller for now. It is likely I'd be able to fix it myself but that could affect my warranty later.

[Gwhite]

I've examined mine, and I don't see how the ball/spring could have escaped, or how to easily take it apart to replace them. The width & depth of the notch are adjustable, and it's a lot more complex than many sights. The exploded diagram doesn't provide nearly enough detail to aid in disassembly or assembly.

Getting the reseller to get it fixed under warranty has an added advantage. If the parts escaped or were omitted during assembly, the factory needs to know that so they won't ship pistols to customers like that in the future.

[kqrxbn]

The mystery of the missing clicks appears to be solved. Behind the rear sight notch there is this little metal thing that is fastened with screws underneath. Those screws also press two little fingers of metal upwards, the left of which is just under the horizontal adjustment screw. These two screws were not tight at all. Over the phone with the reseller I gently tightened those (not very much at all: just until I met a bit of resistance) and the clicks are back! By tightening the screws a bit more I can practically lock the screw. Great stuff. Why they were loose I'll never know but I'll keep an eye on them. I very rarely adjust sights at all, so being able to lock the screw against accidental adjustment seems like a feature to me!

[Gwhite]

Glad it was that simple! I had the entire sight loosen up a couple times until I put very mild threadlocking compound on the screw that holds it to the frame. It doesn't sound like you've shot it enough yet for things to shoot loose.

[kqrxbn]

No, I'm not even up to a thousand rounds through it at this point. About ten thousand dry trigger pulls, but they hopefully do not shake anything loose!

I'll keep an eye on it and see if it loosens up with time. Have a mini checklist for after the range, so will add it there.

[Gwhite]

One issue I've had on a couple of them is that the screws that hold the side weights come loose. Threadlocking compound is definitely useful there. I I used LocTite Blue (#242), and they've been fine since.

[jscot111]

I've had to blue loctite the screw that holds the slide block on the left side on two EVO's. Problem solved.
Scott

[Gwhite]

The problem with having the slide lock on the left is that the impact of the slide wants to unscrew it. I'm right handed, and I've actually found it easier to move it to the right side, where I can operate it with my index finger. That also avoids the unscrewing problem (although I still put LocTite on it...).

[kqrxbn]

Wow, Gwhite, how many MatchGuns do you own? Not being much of a gun nerd, I didn't realise the slide stop could be moved to the other side. My interest is mainly in the shooting sport and less in the guns, but I realise that I'll have to learn at least the basics. I was told by the sales person that I should check all the pins every few thousand shots because he said they could wander away over time. It is a funny piece of kit that dissolves from use

[Gwhite]

I have two, and my wife has one. My first one has had a lot of issues, and I've been working with the US importer to help figure how how to fix things. The second one I have has always worked great, and that's the one I compete with. I've also helped a couple local shooters with some problems after they bought them on my recommendation. As a result, I've worked on five different MG2's so far.

[kqrxbn]

That's a lot of Matchguns! I know of one other MG2, belonging to someone from another club that I've seen at a few competitions. I've also heard rumours that someone knows that someone else has one. They're not quite as rare as hen's teeth, but not far from it.

[kqrxbn]

Now I've discovered a new quirk! Rarely the trigger will "stick". Not physically; it still moves just as normal and feels the same as usual (which is to say that it doesn't really feel like anything: it just moves evenly back and forth). However, it's doesn't reset. The little green LED goes out when it triggers, and remains so. Sometimes it sticks just a little, by which I mean that while it normally resets at the point where the second stage starts, I have to let off a bit more. Sometimes I have to release all the pressure on the trigger for it to reset, and sometimes it does not reset at all. When the latter happens, what has worked so far is to basically jerk the trigger confidently a couple of times. (Trigger off, safety engaged, yank yank, trigger on, safety off: done.)

When I've cleaned it so far I've not gone further than removing the barrel, top and slide. I have noticed that because there is a gap in front of that little cartridge elevator, some carbon/powder/debris gunk does fall further down. Could it be the case that there is a little switch somewhere that is simply dirty, and therefore sticks a bit? I am not deeply comfortable with mechanical systems so I've not tried to take it apart further, but now seems the time. I suspect the problem is not going to go away if I ignore it!

Before I do, however, I just wanted to check if someone knows anything relevant about the construction of the electronic trigger and has any theories of what I should be looking for. I have no idea where to even start; I guess the magic is in those pins, that I'll need some kind of tool for…

[Gwhite]

Good luck. I know nothing about how the electronic versions work. The MG2's cycle faster than any pistol I've ever shot, and that means the the powder doesn't have time to burn very completely. The result is a lot of of fouling, and as you've discovered, a good bit of it tends to fall down into the trigger area.

You will need to find an expert on the electronic version. With luck, it's either an adjustment, dirt, or the lubrication has dried up someplace.

[kqrxbn]

Yeah, I've found what essentially looks like unburnt powder a bit of everywhere. Don't know enough about the internal construction yet but it seems like it could benefit from being a bit more enclosed. I'll start by seeing if I can some videos on disassembly; the two versions are quite similar so I should be able to get quite far at least. I may report back with pictures if I get to it over Xmas and we may both learn something