my izzy's always been a hair-trigger since out of the box- slightest touch sets it off. i feel its time to change it.
what's the best way to adjust it? i see the two screws, do i just get a tiny screwdriver and start fiddling?
thanx
Tal1234-at-yahoo.com.48359.0
Trigger adjustment on an IZH?
Moderators: rexifelis, pilkguns
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Len
Re: Trigger adjustment on an IZH?
In the manual I think "E" is trigger weight. The manual is online at eaacorp.com
.48364.48359
.48364.48359
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Bill Clarke
Re: Trigger adjustment on an IZH?
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
has all the info you are seeking.
billclarke-at-airguninfo.com.48366.48359
has all the info you are seeking.
billclarke-at-airguninfo.com.48366.48359
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Tal
THANX! umm... what exactly is "creep"?
i assume that's "how far it moves before..."?
: http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
: has all the info you are seeking.
tal1234-at-yahoo.com.48367.48366
: http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
: has all the info you are seeking.
tal1234-at-yahoo.com.48367.48366
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GaryN
Re: Trigger adjustment on an IZH?
Man if it is that light, I would absolutely adjust it. It sounds like both the trigger weight and travel need to be adjusted.
Go here to get the trigger adjustment doc
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
On the TenP triger adjustments some of the descriptions are a bit odd/difficult to understand.
Screw A appears to be "over travel" or how much the trigger travels after the trigger releases.
Screw F is 1st stage travel
Screw B is 2nd stage travel
Sorry but I can't figure out how to adjust the 1st and 2nd stage travel from looking at the diagram. You need someone familiar with adjusting the trigger to tell you how to adjust the travel.
As for the trigger weight (screw C), here is a modification of what I did on my AP to adjust the trigger weight (the IZH looks to have only 1 trigger weight adjustment, vs 2 on my pistol). This isn't regulation way of doing it, but at least it gets the trigger weight close to where it should be.
- #1 made a crude weight out of a plastic bag on a loop of string or wire. The string needs to easily move w/o friction of dragging on the grip. I had to remove my grip, and you probably have to also.
- #2 put 510 grams of quarters (90 quarters) into the bag (10 grams over the minimum)
- #3 put the string in the center notch of the trigger shoe.
- #4 lifted pistol vertical, barrel vertical, adjust trigger weight screw (screw C) so I can "just" lift 510 grams, and a touch on the trigger releases it.
Obviously when you do this be very careful that the pistol is NOT loaded. And wear ear plugs, since your head will be close to the pistol when the trigger releases and the gun fires.
gud luk
Gary
.48375.48359
Go here to get the trigger adjustment doc
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm
On the TenP triger adjustments some of the descriptions are a bit odd/difficult to understand.
Screw A appears to be "over travel" or how much the trigger travels after the trigger releases.
Screw F is 1st stage travel
Screw B is 2nd stage travel
Sorry but I can't figure out how to adjust the 1st and 2nd stage travel from looking at the diagram. You need someone familiar with adjusting the trigger to tell you how to adjust the travel.
As for the trigger weight (screw C), here is a modification of what I did on my AP to adjust the trigger weight (the IZH looks to have only 1 trigger weight adjustment, vs 2 on my pistol). This isn't regulation way of doing it, but at least it gets the trigger weight close to where it should be.
- #1 made a crude weight out of a plastic bag on a loop of string or wire. The string needs to easily move w/o friction of dragging on the grip. I had to remove my grip, and you probably have to also.
- #2 put 510 grams of quarters (90 quarters) into the bag (10 grams over the minimum)
- #3 put the string in the center notch of the trigger shoe.
- #4 lifted pistol vertical, barrel vertical, adjust trigger weight screw (screw C) so I can "just" lift 510 grams, and a touch on the trigger releases it.
Obviously when you do this be very careful that the pistol is NOT loaded. And wear ear plugs, since your head will be close to the pistol when the trigger releases and the gun fires.
gud luk
Gary
.48375.48359
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GaryN
creep = trigger travel
creep is trigger movement or travel
On a 2 stage trigger, if you concentrate on your trigger finger, you will feel 2 distinct "stages" of pull. Pull a certain amount, then you come to a place where you stop (this is the 1st stage) and then you have to pull harder to fire the pistol (the 2nd stage). Each stage is adjustable for more or less travel.
There is a debate over a crisp trigger (viturally no movement), and a rolling trigger (with noticable movement). I use a rolling trigger.
Gary
.48376.48367
On a 2 stage trigger, if you concentrate on your trigger finger, you will feel 2 distinct "stages" of pull. Pull a certain amount, then you come to a place where you stop (this is the 1st stage) and then you have to pull harder to fire the pistol (the 2nd stage). Each stage is adjustable for more or less travel.
There is a debate over a crisp trigger (viturally no movement), and a rolling trigger (with noticable movement). I use a rolling trigger.
Gary
.48376.48367
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Vynce
Re: Trigger adjustment on an IZH?
Found on a message board somewhere:
Tension Adjust (Rear Screw): Turn anti-clockwise until a few threads of the screw end protrude beyond block.
2nd Stage (2nd from rear): Turn anti clockwise until there is no 2nd stage and then back in until there is just a hint of 2nd stage.
Over Travel (3rd from rear): Turn clockwise until it won't fire. Then anti-clockwise until 1/8th turn after it does fire.
Take Up (Front Screw): Turn clockwise to reduce or anti-clockwise to increase 1st stage travel.
Blade (on trigger): The trigger blade can move fore and aft on a dovetail by slacking the pinch screw, moving it to your preferred position and then re-tightening. This screw seems to be too tight on most pistols to make any adjustment.
.48378.48359
Tension Adjust (Rear Screw): Turn anti-clockwise until a few threads of the screw end protrude beyond block.
2nd Stage (2nd from rear): Turn anti clockwise until there is no 2nd stage and then back in until there is just a hint of 2nd stage.
Over Travel (3rd from rear): Turn clockwise until it won't fire. Then anti-clockwise until 1/8th turn after it does fire.
Take Up (Front Screw): Turn clockwise to reduce or anti-clockwise to increase 1st stage travel.
Blade (on trigger): The trigger blade can move fore and aft on a dovetail by slacking the pinch screw, moving it to your preferred position and then re-tightening. This screw seems to be too tight on most pistols to make any adjustment.
.48378.48359
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Len
Re: Trigger adjustment on an IZH?
90 quarters? Like as in US quarters? that seems awful heavy.
.48382.48375
.48382.48375
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Roland Cannon
Please check the weight....really
I am not talking so much about the safety issue. If your going to shoot ten meter pistol, set your trigger up si it has the legal pull weight.
I never bothered and assumed my gun was ok. I finally entered a match. I shot fairly well and signed up for the second one. It was NRA something...
I show up and they usher me off to the "room" upstaris. They ask for my guns and start to check every aspect of it. It fit in th ebox, but refused to pick up the weight without going off.
I lucked out and was able to screw around with it enough to get my sticker. It really threw my shooting day off. I dont think a light trigger was helping my shooting much. My scores never made a significant change after making it legal, but it did ruin a match for me.
.48384.48378
I never bothered and assumed my gun was ok. I finally entered a match. I shot fairly well and signed up for the second one. It was NRA something...
I show up and they usher me off to the "room" upstaris. They ask for my guns and start to check every aspect of it. It fit in th ebox, but refused to pick up the weight without going off.
I lucked out and was able to screw around with it enough to get my sticker. It really threw my shooting day off. I dont think a light trigger was helping my shooting much. My scores never made a significant change after making it legal, but it did ruin a match for me.
.48384.48378
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Roland Cannon
Please check the weight....really
I am not talking so much about the safety issue. If your going to shoot ten meter pistol, set your trigger up so it has the legal pull weight.
I never bothered and assumed my gun was ok. I finally entered a match. I shot fairly well and signed up for the second one. It was NRA something...
I show up and they usher me off to the "room" upstaris. They ask for my guns and start to check every aspect of it. It fit in th ebox, but refused to pick up the weight without going off.
I lucked out and was able to screw around with it enough to get my sticker. It really threw my shooting day off. I dont think a light trigger was helping my shooting much. My scores never made a significant change after making it legal, but it did ruin a match for me.
.48385.48378
I never bothered and assumed my gun was ok. I finally entered a match. I shot fairly well and signed up for the second one. It was NRA something...
I show up and they usher me off to the "room" upstaris. They ask for my guns and start to check every aspect of it. It fit in th ebox, but refused to pick up the weight without going off.
I lucked out and was able to screw around with it enough to get my sticker. It really threw my shooting day off. I dont think a light trigger was helping my shooting much. My scores never made a significant change after making it legal, but it did ruin a match for me.
.48385.48378
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Jim P.
Well, Basically Yes. How mechanically minded are you?
Trigger adjustment is really a matter of taste (and of course the weight rule that has already been mentioned - if you shoot in competition) Whatever is right for you.
Please Refer to the diagram in the manual:
The trigger rocks back and forth on its pivot.
Screw "C" stops its forward travel.
Screw "A" stops its back travel
Turn "C" too far and it won't reset.
Turn "A" too far and it won't fire.
The trigger contacts the sear at two points during its travel:
The first point is not adjustable - you see the sear resting on the trigger.
Screw "B" adjusts the second point.
The first point is a lot of trigger travel for a little sear movement. The second point is a little trigger movement for a lot of sear travel. Because of this and since the spring is on the sear the first point will have less force -resistance to your pull than the second.
So you adjust screw "B" for the "second" stage. Where it happens during your trigger pull. Most people adjust this screw very carefully so that they can just begin to feel the increased resistance before the trigger releases (they want a very light release but they want it safe and to pass the weight test - but it is up to you) If you set a single stage use the second point "B" screw in. So to start your trigger adjustment (as you have a light single stage back "B" out a little and see what happens.")
Screw "E" adjusts a spring that pushes forward on your trigger finger (through the sear and stages one and two.)
HTH,
Jim P.
.48394.48359
Please Refer to the diagram in the manual:
The trigger rocks back and forth on its pivot.
Screw "C" stops its forward travel.
Screw "A" stops its back travel
Turn "C" too far and it won't reset.
Turn "A" too far and it won't fire.
The trigger contacts the sear at two points during its travel:
The first point is not adjustable - you see the sear resting on the trigger.
Screw "B" adjusts the second point.
The first point is a lot of trigger travel for a little sear movement. The second point is a little trigger movement for a lot of sear travel. Because of this and since the spring is on the sear the first point will have less force -resistance to your pull than the second.
So you adjust screw "B" for the "second" stage. Where it happens during your trigger pull. Most people adjust this screw very carefully so that they can just begin to feel the increased resistance before the trigger releases (they want a very light release but they want it safe and to pass the weight test - but it is up to you) If you set a single stage use the second point "B" screw in. So to start your trigger adjustment (as you have a light single stage back "B" out a little and see what happens.")
Screw "E" adjusts a spring that pushes forward on your trigger finger (through the sear and stages one and two.)
HTH,
Jim P.
.48394.48359
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Tal
How do I check the weight? (NT)
:
: I am not talking so much about the safety issue. If your going to shoot ten meter pistol, set your trigger up si it has the legal pull weight.
: I never bothered and assumed my gun was ok. I finally entered a match. I shot fairly well and signed up for the second one. It was NRA something...
: I show up and they usher me off to the "room" upstaris. They ask for my guns and start to check every aspect of it. It fit in th ebox, but refused to pick up the weight without going off.
: I lucked out and was able to screw around with it enough to get my sticker. It really threw my shooting day off. I dont think a light trigger was helping my shooting much. My scores never made a significant change after making it legal, but it did ruin a match for me.
.48396.48384
: I am not talking so much about the safety issue. If your going to shoot ten meter pistol, set your trigger up si it has the legal pull weight.
: I never bothered and assumed my gun was ok. I finally entered a match. I shot fairly well and signed up for the second one. It was NRA something...
: I show up and they usher me off to the "room" upstaris. They ask for my guns and start to check every aspect of it. It fit in th ebox, but refused to pick up the weight without going off.
: I lucked out and was able to screw around with it enough to get my sticker. It really threw my shooting day off. I dont think a light trigger was helping my shooting much. My scores never made a significant change after making it legal, but it did ruin a match for me.
.48396.48384
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Jim P.
If backing out "B" doesn't give you any movement
Or, you already know that your trigger doesn't have any movement. Or "B" doesn't make any difference. Back out "C" (as you did say a very light touch sets it off...I assume that the trigger doesn't move much (so the sear must be just about to release the way it is.) For a two stage trigger there has to be some movement for the first stage.)
Jim P.
.48397.48394
Jim P.
.48397.48394
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Len
This post by GaryN
I did mine today and found that my trigger was ALL wrong and WAY too light.
A US quater weighs 90-92 grains. 500 grams is 7716.179176470715 grains which is 86 quarters, GarryN said go over and he's right just to be safe (my comment about the weight was I couldn't beleive that 90ish quaters was 500 grams...I thought it would be a lot more)
I put 90 quaters in a bag, ran some string, made a loop on one end, took the grips off, looped the string through the hole in the trigger guard onto the trigger and tada! got my weight just about right.
I was also thinking you could use pellet tins as the pellets are pretty uniform in weight but the quaters did do the job nicely.
Obviously you could by a weight checker, weights on a rod with a hook at the end...but GaryN's post did me right.
.48398.48396
A US quater weighs 90-92 grains. 500 grams is 7716.179176470715 grains which is 86 quarters, GarryN said go over and he's right just to be safe (my comment about the weight was I couldn't beleive that 90ish quaters was 500 grams...I thought it would be a lot more)
I put 90 quaters in a bag, ran some string, made a loop on one end, took the grips off, looped the string through the hole in the trigger guard onto the trigger and tada! got my weight just about right.
I was also thinking you could use pellet tins as the pellets are pretty uniform in weight but the quaters did do the job nicely.
Obviously you could by a weight checker, weights on a rod with a hook at the end...but GaryN's post did me right.
.48398.48396
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Jim P.
OH! Woopee! the letters in the 10P files are different than
Great!
I just looked at the 10P files and what I've been calling "C" from the manual is labled "F"
"C" is now the one that adjusts the spring.
Nobody said this was going to be easy to explaine.
Jim P.
.48399.48397
I just looked at the 10P files and what I've been calling "C" from the manual is labled "F"
"C" is now the one that adjusts the spring.
Nobody said this was going to be easy to explaine.
Jim P.
.48399.48397
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Len
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David Levene
Re: Here's a picture
: You can't really tell but the string goes throught the hole in the trigger guard
Unless there is something very wrong with my computer screen there is no way that your barrel can be vertical. The results will therefore be wrong (and invalid under ISSF rules).
dalevene-at-blueyonder.co.uk.48404.48400
Unless there is something very wrong with my computer screen there is no way that your barrel can be vertical. The results will therefore be wrong (and invalid under ISSF rules).
dalevene-at-blueyonder.co.uk.48404.48400
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Tal
any idea where can i buy a steyr trigger? (NT)
: One other thing that helps a lot is to replace the blade trigger with a "real" trigger.
: MEC works nicely as does the steyr trigger.
: I've actually replaced my steyr triggers with MEC triggers and put this little guy on the IZH from the Steyr.
.48407.48403
: MEC works nicely as does the steyr trigger.
: I've actually replaced my steyr triggers with MEC triggers and put this little guy on the IZH from the Steyr.
.48407.48403
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Len
Re: Here's a picture
It's a picture of the rig, not the process.
Rotating the barrel to vertical oddly the results are the same, no discharge.
.48408.48404
Rotating the barrel to vertical oddly the results are the same, no discharge.
.48408.48404