Lube for air cylinder ??

[TenMetrePeter]

That gun seems to have been a CO2 conversion to CA.

The question remains, why is it recommended to remove the cylinder from match air guns as the linked article recommends. I think it is unnecessary (because the cylinder can't be removed from many hunting type guns and they hold up just fine) and why cycle the threads putting unnecessary wear on them?

I never do it. unnecessary wear and receiver open to dirt.

[jliston48]

I don't think there is just one cause of this. I suspect it is a combination of screwing it on too tightly then trying to undo it when the ambient temperature is different (in my experience, I charged it up and screwed it on in the afternoon (warm) then could not remove it the next morning (cold). That defies my understanding of metallic thermal expansion! Nowdays, I never screw the cylinder on really tightly - just firm. They do not have to be tight - but not loose, either.
I try to avoid lubricants around compressed air equipment - although I was told that silicon-based grease is good (not in the experience of some here, though).
My cheap and effective solution was to cut small (100 x 100 mm) pieces of non-slip shelf liner polymer (whatever material it is - possibly silicon-based) and use that to grip the cylinder. It has never failed me or my wife with our Steyr LP-10s and my LP-50. I have one with each PCP pistol.

[brent375hh]

That gun seems to have been a CO2 conversion to CA.

The question remains, why is it recommended to remove the cylinder from match air guns as the linked article recommends. I think it is unnecessary (because the cylinder can't be removed from many hunting type guns and they hold up just fine) and why cycle the threads putting unnecessary wear on them?

I can't speak for other guns, but the Steyr has a a firing valve with an o-ring glued in a machined groove. Once it flattens out under pressure, a new one is a $50 part. Also the spring stack in the regular can weaken over time so that the plenum pressure value could change. Removing the cylinder on a Steyr removes pressure from the plenum. If using Superlube grease, I don't worry about my cylinder threads wearing out.

[Nevergiveup]

I’m confused. I struggle with this issue of leaving the cylinder on or off.

I have a P8X and I fire from 10 to 60 shots per day. The cylinder is fully normally charged every couple of days and stays on the gun. The gun is always ready to shoot.

I shoot from my loft into an area of my walk-in attic that has the target. It works great except when the temperature rises in the summer. Opening the door to the attic is like a blast furnace. On those days I don’t shoot and if I do it’s just a few shots.
In this case the cylinder can remain on the gun a week or more before being fired.

I read the article before about removing the cylinder between sessions and it makes sense to remove pressure from the system. However, Feinwerkbrau, states in its user manual that if the pistol is not to be used for a long period (4-6 weeks) the cylinder can (not should) be screwed off. It implies if you leave it on a certain amount of pressure can be lost over a long period.

I’m new to PCP pistols and am at loss to know which way is best.

When I do put on the cylinder, each time I clean the treads and apply a fresh light coating of Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease with PTEE. So far, no issues with the treads.

[Gwhite]

If FWB says implies it's OK, I wouldn't worry about it. I've left cylinders on my Morini & Steyrs for many months at a stretch, and have never had a problem. My Morini is about 20 years old now & still shoots fine. My Steyr LP50 is about 15 years old at this point, and is also working well.

Theoretically, it may be better for some regulator mechanisms. In my experience, and as a practical matter, I don't think it's a big deal.

[pbrejsa]

Handle the air gun according to the manufacturer's instructions, which are usually listed in the enclosed manual. If this information is missing, it is not important! I use several Steyr pistols. The oldest is already 17 years old. I only use one air cylinder for each pistol, which I don't change. The cylinders are always under pressure and always screwed on the guns. Problems only occurred when the brittle cylinder valve seal had to be replaced (after 8 to 12 years). You can easily tell this, because both the screwed-in and the unscrewed cylinder begin to lose air observably or cannot be pressurized. Problems with the thread on the cylinder exist because the inner thread is made of aluminum alloy. The aluminum contained in it reacts by galling during the sliding movement of the steel surface of the thread. The thread should not be completely dry, without lubricant. If you need to remove the original lubrication from the manufacturer from the thread. Therefore, it is advisable to apply a very small amount of lubricant to the thread surface at one time, which contains the addition of graphite or molycote. Although the silicone-based lubricant does not damage the O-rings, it is completely unsuitable for lubricating a moving aluminum thread. I am not able to comment on the lubricant brands listed here. Use only what your specific gun manufacturer recommends. Personally, I use a graphite coating, which is spread on the surface of the thread before it dries. It's perfect, but not everyone has the option of using a lubricant that is used to lubricate railway switches or hot furnace parts.

[David M]

My favorite Airpistol grease is Festo-Pneumatics Lubricants Grease LUB-KC1.
Its main use is when assembling Pneumatic Controls.
Available in small tube.

festo_lube.jpg (8.16 KiB) Viewed 1600 times

[divingin]

I read the article before about removing the cylinder between sessions and it makes sense to remove pressure from the system. However, Feinwerkbrau, states in its user manual that if the pistol is not to be used for a long period (4-6 weeks) the cylinder can (not should) be screwed off. It implies if you leave it on a certain amount of pressure can be lost over a long period.

Covid had me off my AP for over a year (I know it shouldn't have, but it did.)

My Morini, when brought back out, had full charges on both cylinders, one on the pistol, and one loose in the case.