help with LP500

[emre-nur]

Hi,

I want to decrease the second stage and increase the first stage weight of the trigger in my LP500.

First stage seems easy. Second stage, not so well explained in the manual.

The nobs and screws are a bit different than those shown in the manual.

Any help, tips, videos etc.

[DviFaze]

There are two set screws behind the trigger. (above the notch on the grip)
The top one is for the second stage weight.
Clockwise - increase
Counter-clockwise - decrease

The bottom one is for the trigger stop.
Clockwise - decrease trigger movement after release.
Counter-clockwise - increase trigger movement after release.
(Do not decrease the movement too much because the trigger will be inconsistent)

[emre-nur]

There are two set screws behind the trigger. (above the notch on the grip)
The top one is for the second stage weight.
Clockwise - increase
Counter-clockwise - decrease

The bottom one is for the trigger stop.
Clockwise - decrease trigger movement after release.
Counter-clockwise - increase trigger movement after release.
(Do not decrease the movement too much because the trigger will be inconsistent)

Many thanks.
I guess, you mean the screw that I indicate with the red line for the 2nd stage.
Though, I could not figure out how to reach that screw with the tool provided with the pistol. The trigger seems like obstructing. Shall I remove the trigger. The manual tells to dismantle the grip but this does not seem to solve the problem either.

[David M]

I guess, you mean the screw that I indicate with the red line for the 2nd stage.
Though, I could not figure out how to reach that screw with the tool provided with the pistol. The trigger seems like obstructing. Shall I remove the trigger. The manual tells to dismantle the grip but this does not seem to solve the problem either.
IMG_6155.jpg

It sounds like you have little to no engineering ability, if you don't know what you are doing DO NOT TOUCH the settings.
You need the hex allen keys and a trigger weigth (500g).
Changing the second stage weight may also require the trigger point also to be increased to ensure engagement if you go too light.
The screws are accessed by loosing the trigger arm screw and moving sideways or using a ball hex driver.

[emre-nur]

It sounds like you have little to no engineering ability

indeed

[DviFaze]

It sounds like you have little to no engineering ability

indeed

The screw that you marked is the right one.

I think that you can access it with the short end of a normal allen key. This way you don't have to move the trigger. Keep in mind that moving the trigger changes the trigger weight slightly, because you change leverage.

If you choose to experiment with your trigger settings and have no experience, I advise that you only touch the first/second stage weight, and first stage travel. Don't make big changes, and write down every turn you make (like first stage half turn clockwise etc.), this way you can reverse things back to factory setting. Get a trigger weight or make a DIY one, and check that the trigger holds it.

You can also experience how the trigger works by turning on dry-fire, and lifting a trigger weight off a digital kitchen scale. This way you can approximately find out what the factory weight settings are.

[deadeyedick]

The screw that you marked is the right one.

I think that you can access it with the short end of a normal allen key. This way you don't have to move the trigger. Keep in mind that moving the trigger changes the trigger weight slightly, because you change leverage.

If you choose to experiment with your trigger settings and have no experience, I advise that you only touch the first/second stage weight, and first stage travel. Don't make big changes, and write down every turn you make (like first stage half turn clockwise etc.), this way you can reverse things back to factory setting. Get a trigger weight or make a DIY one, and check that the trigger holds it.

You can also experience how the trigger works by turning on dry-fire, and lifting a trigger weight off a digital kitchen scale. This way you can approximately find out what the factory weight settings are.

He will appreciate this response.

[brent375hh]

You could also buy another hex key and cut off the short end to only be about 8mm long to access those screws.

[emre-nur]

You could also buy another hex key and cut off the short end to only be about 8mm long to access those screws.

really thanks...
but "cut off the short end ..." , me?
with a kitchen knife or ...
:)

[emre-nur]

He will appreciate this response.

I do very much

[Gwhite]

<snip>
Many thanks.
I guess, you mean the screw that I indicate with the red line for the 2nd stage.
Though, I could not figure out how to reach that screw with the tool provided with the pistol. The trigger seems like obstructing. Shall I remove the trigger. The manual tells to dismantle the grip but this does not seem to solve the problem either.

The trigger blocking the adjusting screws is a common issue. The designers either aren't thinking things through, or they all have long fingers & their triggers don't get in the way...

At least on newer Benelli Kites, they provide you with a nice scale on the trigger bar so you can set it back in the same location:

Benelli Kite Trigger Scale.jpg (46.19 KiB) Viewed 3037 times

[brent375hh]

You could also buy another hex key and cut off the short end to only be about 8mm long to access those screws.

really thanks...
but "cut off the short end ..." , me?
with a kitchen knife or ...
:)

Hack saw, file, grinder, belt sander, chop saw, or cut off disc on Dremel tool. Someone you know has to own one of the above.

[emre-nur]

It sounds like you have little to no engineering ability

indeed

The screw that you marked is the right one.

I think that you can access it with the short end of a normal allen key. This way you don't have to move the trigger. Keep in mind that moving the trigger changes the trigger weight slightly, because you change leverage.

If you choose to experiment with your trigger settings and have no experience, I advise that you only touch the first/second stage weight, and first stage travel. Don't make big changes, and write down every turn you make (like first stage half turn clockwise etc.), this way you can reverse things back to factory setting. Get a trigger weight or make a DIY one, and check that the trigger holds it.

You can also experience how the trigger works by turning on dry-fire, and lifting a trigger weight off a digital kitchen scale. This way you can approximately find out what the factory weight settings are.

Thanks to all
A bit more info:

I have a DIY trigger scale and the factory setting seemed a little light, or just at the border, so I increased the first stage weight and it is now around 550g— I hope :) I see that the angle of the trigger blade makes some difference.

My problem: in the factory setting, all the weight seems to be on the second stage. I have a heavy second stage after a very light first stage. This makes a smooth shot release very difficult. My idea is to distribute the weight a bit more evenly . Maybe, like 150-350 apprx.

As said, so far I could not figure out how to reach the screw. For someone with no engineering skills, the whole trigger system (or everything on the pistol) looks very delicate— afraid of messing it up!

The screw to move the trigger blade forward/backward seems tight, again afraid to force it, and not sure if that would help reach the 2nd stage screw, may be with an "L" shaped tool.

As said, the manual tells to dismantle the grip but I guess this is for a slightly different design. Because, it doesn't look like dismantling the grip would help reaching the screw. And yes, I am also afraid to dismantle the grip—let alone changing the grip angle which might be necessary.

I have similar issues with the sights as well. I could not change/rotate the front sight and instead narrowed a bit the rear one (I guess the same or similar effect).

It seems like I have a long way to go. There is much more to learn and practice until being able to release the shot at the right moment. Otherwise, I can keep on shooting like a cow-boy :)

[emre-nur]

You could also buy another hex key and cut off the short end to only be about 8mm long to access those screws.

really thanks...
but "cut off the short end ..." , me?
with a kitchen knife or ...
:)

Hack saw, file, grinder, belt sander, chop saw, or cut off disc on Dremel tool. Someone you know has to own one of the above.

I will work on that. Someone I know...though I am all stranger in Brussels—so far under lockdown.
In addition to lack of engineering, my social skills are also very poor, I guess.

[brent375hh]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4AII/re ... CZXMFSWV42

[DviFaze]

It sounds like you have little to no engineering ability

indeed

The screw that you marked is the right one.

I think that you can access it with the short end of a normal allen key. This way you don't have to move the trigger. Keep in mind that moving the trigger changes the trigger weight slightly, because you change leverage.

If you choose to experiment with your trigger settings and have no experience, I advise that you only touch the first/second stage weight, and first stage travel. Don't make big changes, and write down every turn you make (like first stage half turn clockwise etc.), this way you can reverse things back to factory setting. Get a trigger weight or make a DIY one, and check that the trigger holds it.

You can also experience how the trigger works by turning on dry-fire, and lifting a trigger weight off a digital kitchen scale. This way you can approximately find out what the factory weight settings are.

Thanks to all
A bit more info:

I have a DIY trigger scale and the factory setting seemed a little light, or just at the border, so I increased the first stage weight and it is now around 550g— I hope :) I see that the angle of the trigger blade makes some difference.

My problem: in the factory setting, all the weight seems to be on the second stage. I have a heavy second stage after a very light first stage. This makes a smooth shot release very difficult. My idea is to distribute the weight a bit more evenly . Maybe, like 150-350 apprx.

As said, so far I could not figure out how to reach the screw. For someone with no engineering skills, the whole trigger system (or everything on the pistol) looks very delicate— afraid of messing it up!

The screw to move the trigger blade forward/backward seems tight, again afraid to force it, and not sure if that would help reach the 2nd stage screw, may be with an "L" shaped tool.

As said, the manual tells to dismantle the grip but I guess this is for a slightly different design. Because, it doesn't look like dismantling the grip would help reaching the screw. And yes, I am also afraid to dismantle the grip—let alone changing the grip angle which might be necessary.

I have similar issues with the sights as well. I could not change/rotate the front sight and instead narrowed a bit the rear one (I guess the same or similar effect).

It seems like I have a long way to go. There is much more to learn and practice until being able to release the shot at the right moment. Otherwise, I can keep on shooting like a cow-boy :)

First of all you should go to the hardware store and buy some good quality hex keys.
(You need a 1.5mm hex key for the front sight adjustment.)

Based on your pictures I think that you have enough clearance for a normal hex key.
If not and you cannot cut it off, this special hex key is the best choice: https://products.wera.de/en/l-keys_l-ke ... _pkls.html
(product number: 05022041001)

By removing the grip you will be able to turn the hex key more than a few degrees.

If you want to loosen the tight trigger screw put your finger behind the trigger, this way you don't put too much force on the trigger mechanism.

Are you sure that most of the weight is on the 2nd stage? It seems unusual.

[northpaw]

The trigger of the Walther 500 E is slightly finicky, according to my experiences. If one puts pressure to the trigger, close to let off weight, but then abandons the shot, then the next trigger pull let off weight is much less, which could cause a premature shot release. Is this caused by a too tight trigger stop? Possibly, but I do not think so.
Please comment upon this topic, if you have experience with the Walther 500 E.

[emre-nur]

The trigger of the Walther 500 E is slightly finicky, according to my experiences. If one puts pressure to the trigger, close to let off weight, but then abandons the shot, then the next trigger pull let off weight is much less, which could cause a premature shot release. Is this caused by a too tight trigger stop? Possibly, but I do not think so.
Please comment upon this topic, if you have experience with the Walther 500 E.

Mine is mechanical. Haven't noticed such thing, but I have very little experience

[David M]

The trigger of the Walther 500 E is slightly finicky, according to my experiences. If one puts pressure to the trigger, close to let off weight, but then abandons the shot, then the next trigger pull let off weight is much less, which could cause a premature shot release. Is this caused by a too tight trigger stop? Possibly, but I do not think so.
Please comment upon this topic, if you have experience with the Walther 500 E.

The trigger stop plays no part in the trigger until after the sear break. Should be a clearance of 0.015-0.020" at break.
It just prevents excessive movement after release.
If the second stage is set too light then a aborted shot may not reset the sear/switch bar back to the full cocked position.
The Walther LP400 was also finiky, it had a 2nd stage spring with too heavy a coil, and if you tried to set it too low, the spring was only just touching and outside of its working area.
It was fixed with a lighter coil spring a little longer so that the same weight allowed for more spring working movement (compressed length).

[masaki]

emre-nur,
I hope you have solved the problem already, but for your information, I have modified a cheap Allen screw driver came with formerly own LP300, CPM1 or CP2 by reducing the handle diameter to 8.5mm.
Your LP500's trigger guard should have a Φ10.0 hole which axis is concentric to the screw for the 2nd stage trigger force adjustment. So, you can have access to the screw through this hole.

Ciao!
Masaki