Pardini K12 trigger question

[kubikula78]

Hi all,

I have new K12 Absorber and trigger needs to be set a bit, was too light from factory. Pardini User manual is very simple. I understand 2 screws for First-stage and Let-off weight. But does anybody know how should be set Sear engagement screw and what effect has the screw for adjust the compression of the firing pin spring?

Thanks a lot.

Jakub

[thirdwheel]

The k12 trigger is beautifully simple and easy to see what is going on when you adjust the screw for the first and second stage weight but to do this you must take the grip off to see it and all is explained by looking at the mechanism. Don't touch the hammer spring compression screw (it is locked using another screw) this adjusts the velocity and is set at the optimum and legal level at the factory, my velocity has stayed correct for six years and zillion pellets blown down the bore. The sear screw is easy to adjust and see how it works by looking at the mechanism, this too is set at the factory so you really should not need to touch it for now. I reset mine every three months and the major problem is temperature change, I do shoot and train every day so it does get a lot of use and I can feel when it needs to be done. I move it using a degree gauge and sometimes all I need to do is move the screw 2 degrees to bring it back on song. If you are shooting competitively try not to make the second stage too light keep some weight on it, you can see how positive this is if you look at your look at your trace on the scatt, if you can get a go on on a system. Good shooting the K12 is superb and easy to live with.

[kubikula78]

Thank you. I can see how it works, I had grip down. But still ihe second stage is not so crisp as it should be, there is movement. Trigger on my ex LP2 was more crisp. And I believe this can be set by sear screw.

I have manual for my Hammerli SP and there is basic trigger setting step-by-step. Like "Cock the pistol, turn sear screw until it decock, then turn 1/2 turn back...etc

K12 is super good, no doubt, but I bought it like upgrade from LP2, everybody saying that K12 trigger is super good, but my factory setup is not as good as LP2.


Jakub

[j danielsson]

Do as your hammerli book says, but only 1/8 turn back.
And keep the surfaces clean.

[thirdwheel]

Here is what I do but it is at your risk as I take my setups to the very edge for competitive reasons and only use it for dry fire and on the range pointing towards the target down range, it holds 500g and a coin - the coin is my safety to pass equipment control easily.
Put K12 into dry fire mode with the selection lever upwards. Take off the grip check the bore is clear using a safety chord (plastic grass strimmer chord) Back off the trigger stop half a turn, you may need to move the trigger blade to get to it - it is the rearward allen screw on the trigger blade plate the forward screw takes up the first stage travel. Cock the pistol, check the lever is still in dry fire mode, and and using an allen key on the screw to the rear of the frame slowly screw in the allen screw until it fires. Make a circular paper or card protractor and put a hole in the middle so the allen key is a good fit in it. Using a small piece of double sided tape stick the protractor on the back of the frame. Find the longest allen key you can get and use that as the indicator - longer makes it easier to turn smoothly. Now back the screw out 2 degrees at a time until the sear holds when you cock it bump the pistol hard with your hand to see if the sear still holds when you get it to hold all of the time that is the setting you are after. With your trigger weight set up the first and second stage weights to your preferred ratio but don't forget you need to have the trigger blade back in the position you want it to be if you have moved it to access the trigger stop. Now reset the trigger stop - this can be the most difficult part of the process and continue checking with your weight to make sure you are not holding the trigger on the stop screw.

Safety test - When all is done and the grip is back in place and the dry fire lever is on dry fire, hold pistol in shooting hand, cock pistol and thump the base of the grip with the non shooting hand to try and get the sear to release, if it does you have too little sear overlap and you need to increase it. Additional to this check the pistol is clear then switch to the fire position, close the breech properly so you do not blow out the "O" ring in the breech and bump test it while cocked, again if it fires increase overlap.

One of my back up pistols is an LP2 and that trigger has been set up by me but there feels to be a lot going on clanking about on release and the k12 just has a muted click. If you have access to a scatt you might like to see what your release and follow through trace looks like on both pistols - that is if you still have the LP2. Then back off the trigger stop a bit on the K12 to see if that makes any difference to the trace, particularly the follow through.

[kubikula78]

Thank you very much, will try this afternoon.

BTW, from factory is small amount of grease on sear. Do you keep this surface dry and clean or have you some grease there?

[thirdwheel]

This "grease" is a molybdenum paste it is very slippery in fact the molecular size of the molybdenum is very small and it attaches to the steel at a molecular level making the surface (sear) super smooth and slippery - leave it alone it is there doing a very good job! If you look at all of the pistols used at the Olympics, World Championships and ISSF gold cups (Sport Pistol, rapid fire and Free Pistol) a very high proportion of them are Pardini, these people know what they are doing. That aside they have not made much of a dent at that level in sales to Air pistol competitors but some very talented Italians and Germans (and others) are using them at that level.