Traiside Adjusting "Larry's Trigger" help!!

[wingnut170]

Can someone help with the routine to adjust "Larry's Trigger". Most posts that I have read make it sound easy and maybe it is, I just can't grasp what the adjustments do. Cannot seem to end up with a crisp trigger that breaks over 1 pound & 2 ounces. When I get over 1 1/2 pounds there is a lot of creep before the hammer breaks. I ground my own sear could that be where my problem is? Would appreciate any and all help. Pictures would be great.

Thanks Ray

[jglenn]

ground your own sear?? what exactly did you do in detail.

I altered my sear but really only honed a relief cut on the small portion of the stock sear on the tail end of the sear left. basically shorten the sear engagement. if you cut the sear per the instructions for Larry's trigger you should be fine. don't mess with the main portion of the sear as it's very smooth from the factory

I'll assume you installed the adjustable second stage screw that came with the kit. The adjustable plunger inside of the screw makes adjusting the final let off pretty easy. 1st stage is controlled by the adjustable spring in the trigger. personally I set mine to be very light.. so it feels like a smooth take up on a 1911 verses having any really pressure.

the final or 2nd stage is totally controlled by the adjustable screw in the frame behind the trigger. I first adjusted the screw itself so the trigger would release after contacting the small plunger inside of the screw and before the trigger hits the main body of the screw(which can act as a trigger stop).,. that leaves the second stage pull to be totally controlled by the small plunger/screw inside of the larger screw easy to get it backed out enough to have a 2lb trigger.

if you still get creep adjusted the way I described it could be the plunger inside the screw. I'd disassemble the screw and check everything to be sure it's smooth. I'd even go so far as to smooth out the inside of the primary screw. the trigger is really more of a continuous roll style trigger with a very smooth left off. if you want a harder style left off screw the plunger adjustment in to set more spring pressure. again you want the sear to let go before the trigger backs into the second stage screw body.

[wingnut170]

Thanks for the reply, this seems to be an explanation that is a little easier to understand. there are 3 screws on the trigger itself can you explain what each one does?

I honed the sear like the picture and instructions showed, I think. When I honed the sear I removed a small portion of the back and contact surface in the center on the back side of the sear like the picture in the instructions showed.


Thanks Again...… Ray.

[jglenn]

the front most screw adjusts the amount of slack or pickup you have on the trigger bar. if you take the right grip off, what you want is around .010 worth of space between the bar and the sear arm. turning the screw in reduces the clearance. I like to polish the trigger bar on the side that run along the frame. also check the hook that contacts the sear for any roughness.

the second screw is the overtravel adjustment.. how far the trigger will go after the sear lets go. turning the screw in will reduce the trigger follow. Personally I didn't use this. I simply let the second stage screw( with the little plunger) stop the trigger.. don't try and get all of the movement out using either.

third screw is the first stage trigger pull adjustment. screwing it in adds trigger pressure in the first stage.. I pretty much backed this one out to be very light as I prefer more of a single stage style trigger.. but try it both ways and see how you like it.

your sear sounds fine.

hope all this helps

[wingnut170]

Thanks again so much...… Ray

[wingnut170]

I think I have got it finally....Thanks